OK I am back to working on my SSE amp and I think I need switches because the ones I currently have are wrong. I purchased 6A/125VAC DPDT ON-OFF-ON and 10A/125VAC DPDT ON-OFF-ON switches awhile ago and after reading the formum threads I THINK this is really what I need:
Cathode Feedback Switch: 10A/125VAC DPDT ON-ON
UL/Triode Switch: 10A/125VAC DPDT ON-ON
SS/Tube Rectifier Switch: 10A/125VAC SPST ON-ON
Power Switch: 10A/125VAC SPST ON-OFF
Can someone please tell me if what I have specified is correct? If not can you tell me what I really need? I am not going to install all these switches to start. I'm going to get the amp going with the bare minimum and then go from there. But I want to get the correct switches to have on hand for when and if I choose to experiment with the amp configuration.
Thanks in advance,
Blake
Cathode Feedback Switch: 10A/125VAC DPDT ON-ON
UL/Triode Switch: 10A/125VAC DPDT ON-ON
SS/Tube Rectifier Switch: 10A/125VAC SPST ON-ON
Power Switch: 10A/125VAC SPST ON-OFF
Can someone please tell me if what I have specified is correct? If not can you tell me what I really need? I am not going to install all these switches to start. I'm going to get the amp going with the bare minimum and then go from there. But I want to get the correct switches to have on hand for when and if I choose to experiment with the amp configuration.
Thanks in advance,
Blake
Switches for SSE
In the wiring section of SSE :
Here we add a UL / triode switch (left) and a CFB disable switch (right) The diagram would get too complex if all of the wiring was shown, so some of the wiring that is shown in the previous diagrams is not shown. For simplicity, only the left channel is shown. The switches used should be DPDT having 6 terminals. Wire the right channel up exactly the same way as the left channel.
In the wiring section of SSE :
Here we add a UL / triode switch (left) and a CFB disable switch (right) The diagram would get too complex if all of the wiring was shown, so some of the wiring that is shown in the previous diagrams is not shown. For simplicity, only the left channel is shown. The switches used should be DPDT having 6 terminals. Wire the right channel up exactly the same way as the left channel.
Thank you for your input.
OK...I read that section before I posted my question. I did not see anything that suggests or recommends what kind of switches to use regarding the electrical ratings or whether they should be ON-OFF, ON-ON, ON-OFF-ON or whatever.
I kinda figured the switches that are controlling both channels should be DPDT but now you are suggesting the main power should be DPDT also?
I'm an electronics newbie. The last time i played with circuits was in a High School Physics class.
I think that it wouldn't hurt to recommend what the switch specs should be.
OK...I read that section before I posted my question. I did not see anything that suggests or recommends what kind of switches to use regarding the electrical ratings or whether they should be ON-OFF, ON-ON, ON-OFF-ON or whatever.
I kinda figured the switches that are controlling both channels should be DPDT but now you are suggesting the main power should be DPDT also?
I'm an electronics newbie. The last time i played with circuits was in a High School Physics class.
I think that it wouldn't hurt to recommend what the switch specs should be.
I used these on-off-on dpdt switches for the UL, FB and source switches.
digikey EG2413-ND
They were recommended somewhere in this forum. I did not install the solid-state switch as it is not needed unless you want to switch back and forth.
I used an integrated IEC unit for the power switch on the four amps I've built.
Digikey: Q308-ND
have fun
digikey EG2413-ND
They were recommended somewhere in this forum. I did not install the solid-state switch as it is not needed unless you want to switch back and forth.
I used an integrated IEC unit for the power switch on the four amps I've built.
Digikey: Q308-ND
have fun
I used these on-off-on dpdt switches for the UL, FB and source switches.
digikey EG2413-ND
They were recommended somewhere in this forum. I did not install the solid-state switch as it is not needed unless you want to switch back and forth.
I used an integrated IEC unit for the power switch on the four amps I've built.
Digikey: Q308-ND
have fun
I see that the EG2413-ND switch is ON-OFF-ON. Did you wire the amp so the CFB has two ON positions and one OFF? And for the UL/Triode switch I can see that a one ON position is for UL mode and the other is for Triode mode but what mode is it in if its in the OFF position? And the same thing for the SS/Tube rectifier switch? One ON position is for SS and the other ON is for Tube but what happens when it is in the OFF position?
I can see how an ON-OFF-ON switch can be used to control those functions but it seems that you will need to make sure it is in either one of the ON positions and not accidentally OFF ...
I used the wiring diagram on the Tubelab site. My understanding is that the off position isn't used. So it's on for CFB and on for no CFB. Same for UL. I believe these switches are only switched when the amp is off.
The SS switch is just on or off. I don't think you can use the same switch for that. I left out the switch, so I have only tube rectification.
The SS switch is just on or off. I don't think you can use the same switch for that. I left out the switch, so I have only tube rectification.
I see that the EG2413-ND switch is ON-OFF-ON. Did you wire the amp so the CFB has two ON positions and one OFF? And for the UL/Triode switch I can see that a one ON position is for UL mode and the other is for Triode mode but what mode is it in if its in the OFF position? And the same thing for the SS/Tube rectifier switch? One ON position is for SS and the other ON is for Tube but what happens when it is in the OFF position?
I can see how an ON-OFF-ON switch can be used to control those functions but it seems that you will need to make sure it is in either one of the ON positions and not accidentally OFF ...
The OFF position means that neither side is selected, that is, the switch will be in a neutral position. If you feel that
you might accidentally leave it in the OFF position then get a DPDT ON-ON switch for UL/Triode and CFB enable/disable.
The rectifier switch is to put the tube rectifier in circuit for which you need an SPST (ON/OFF) switch.
If there is no switch then the solid state rectifier will be in circuit by default.
If you decide to install tube rectification only and leave out the FRED's then you do not need the switch.
The power switch is also SPST (ON/OFF).
I used the wiring diagram on the Tubelab site. My understanding is that the off position isn't used. So it's on for CFB and on for no CFB. Same for UL. I believe these switches are only switched when the amp is off.
The SS switch is just on or off. I don't think you can use the same switch for that. I left out the switch, so I have only tube rectification.
So for CFB if the OFF position isn't used and you had the ON-OFF-ON switch in the off position what happens? Will the amp just not power up or what? I'm sure an electronics expert intuitively knows the answer but I'm an electronics neophyte.
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