Hey everyone!
So here’s the scenario I’m trying to simplify. I have multiple audio/video interfaces and all of them run off 12VDC except one that is 9VDC. The space available is small, so versus having to eat up room with an extra wallwart I would love to run a single larger current 12v supply and use either a small step-down buck converter, LDO, or any other suggestions to supply 9v to the single audio interface. The stock 9v power supply is 2A.
Any suggestions? 🙂
So here’s the scenario I’m trying to simplify. I have multiple audio/video interfaces and all of them run off 12VDC except one that is 9VDC. The space available is small, so versus having to eat up room with an extra wallwart I would love to run a single larger current 12v supply and use either a small step-down buck converter, LDO, or any other suggestions to supply 9v to the single audio interface. The stock 9v power supply is 2A.
Any suggestions? 🙂
I’m all ears. And still supply up to 2A (max) without heat being a concern? I would consider using an LM7809 but it only provides 1.5A before needing a heat sink 🙄
I’m super curious about some of these super cheap buck converters the size of a coin but worry about switching noise.
One example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q3PMJT...abc_1PWTM4Z1N2AN34Y76GJT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m super curious about some of these super cheap buck converters the size of a coin but worry about switching noise.
One example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q3PMJT...abc_1PWTM4Z1N2AN34Y76GJT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't mention the 7809 regulator, but its capability can be boosted by a helper transistor - schematics of such are all over the internet.
And so are simple transistor/zener regulators.
And so are simple transistor/zener regulators.
Or if you want a complication, use a LM317 with a transistor, also all over the net.
You can tune the output a bit.
You can tune the output a bit.
Anything dissipating 6 watts is going to need a heat sink. Switching converters you will deal with noise. Pick your poison. Something you pick up on E-bay might not be the best solution. A single-chip solution (switching equivalent of a 317) following the data sheet application schematic might be quieter than something iffy from E-bay.
So I wound up getting a set of these to try out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q3PMJT...abc_1PWTM4Z1N2AN34Y76GJT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And they actually appear to work perfectly fine in this scenario. I don’t have anything super fancy diagnostic wise (Tektronix T932A, Mooshimeter, Izotope RX9, REW)
So what I did was compare the OEM 9v SMPS wall-wart with a similar 12v SMPS wall-wart PLUS the step down module.
Swapping out supplies plugged into the interface I couldn’t measure much of a difference in noise/ripple. I also monitored the audio outputs to see if any noise induced by the buck converter might be visible on the scope or FFT. I couldn’t find any meaningful difference across the audio band.
The switching frequency on the buck converter is 800kHz which is already out of the audio bandwidth and maybe the filtering circuitry in the interface is robust enough not to care much about that.
One minor annoying thing though is the part number on the converter is milled off so I can’t look up the data sheet.
So does anyone have any concerns, criticisms, or cries of outrage why this would be a bad idea long term?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q3PMJT...abc_1PWTM4Z1N2AN34Y76GJT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And they actually appear to work perfectly fine in this scenario. I don’t have anything super fancy diagnostic wise (Tektronix T932A, Mooshimeter, Izotope RX9, REW)
So what I did was compare the OEM 9v SMPS wall-wart with a similar 12v SMPS wall-wart PLUS the step down module.
Swapping out supplies plugged into the interface I couldn’t measure much of a difference in noise/ripple. I also monitored the audio outputs to see if any noise induced by the buck converter might be visible on the scope or FFT. I couldn’t find any meaningful difference across the audio band.
The switching frequency on the buck converter is 800kHz which is already out of the audio bandwidth and maybe the filtering circuitry in the interface is robust enough not to care much about that.
One minor annoying thing though is the part number on the converter is milled off so I can’t look up the data sheet.
So does anyone have any concerns, criticisms, or cries of outrage why this would be a bad idea long term?
It does say LM2596, so see the data sheet and app notes.
Also, at $100 per hour tech time, it may be cheaper to buy another, newer device if this breaks.
If you are particular, change all the electrolytic caps with best quality ones, will help longevity. If you can salvage some from old motherboards, perfect.
Also, at $100 per hour tech time, it may be cheaper to buy another, newer device if this breaks.
If you are particular, change all the electrolytic caps with best quality ones, will help longevity. If you can salvage some from old motherboards, perfect.