Being I am slightly deviatingfrom the original design, figure need a new name. 😛 Instead of monolithos (original spelling), they are in stereo both being a pair of speaker cabinets and a pair in each cabinet, unlike the traditional BIB using one driver.
This forum is dangerous, came here with a folded horn question and now going to build a pair of BIBs. I am looking for input and someone good at modeling to do so, please.
The original BBBIB used a subwoofer for a PA system, as they were for for a one time parade and then tossed, more importantly, the subwoofer is NLA. The Faital Pro 12FH500 is on sale at $100 and looks to have great specifications. https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=151050100.
The design also calls for a tweeter, though why not an about 4 inch full range, kind of like a WAW (though there limited at the bottom to 300Hz)?
The more I read about Fostex, the more concerned I became and happened on a member making a positive statement towards a Markaudio Alpair drivers, though too large, so went on a long hunt and the most research I could, and love the sound of the Pluvia drivers; the Seven is a four inch. Dave (@planet10 ) said this: "Makes a good midTweeter in a WAW. So does Alpair 5.2/3 (CHN-50 if you are on a tight budget), and i expect the MAOP version (it should be killer in that application)."
https://www.markaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Pluvia-Seven-HD-gen-2-spec-sheet.pdf
For now, chosen a Fr of 45Hz (equal to Fs of the 12FH500 and about half (Fs=72,55) of the Pluvia), will achieves at least 22,5Hz on paper.
Would the Faital Pro 12FH500 and the Markaudio Pluvia Seven be a great pairing together?
Using the Faital Pro 12FH500 produces a far narrower and shallower cabinet compared to the BBBIB, only 13,34"/33,89cm internal width, 18,87"/47,93 internal depth, and a mere 74,80"/190,00 internal height.
Edit. A post by @zman01 in a different thread caused me to realize I should mention the music I enjoy is varied, pre World War Two jazz, blue grass, oldies, disco, 1980s pop, some classical, and love organ music (which I prefer above the about 35dB I normally listen at).
This forum is dangerous, came here with a folded horn question and now going to build a pair of BIBs. I am looking for input and someone good at modeling to do so, please.
The original BBBIB used a subwoofer for a PA system, as they were for for a one time parade and then tossed, more importantly, the subwoofer is NLA. The Faital Pro 12FH500 is on sale at $100 and looks to have great specifications. https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=151050100.
The design also calls for a tweeter, though why not an about 4 inch full range, kind of like a WAW (though there limited at the bottom to 300Hz)?
The more I read about Fostex, the more concerned I became and happened on a member making a positive statement towards a Markaudio Alpair drivers, though too large, so went on a long hunt and the most research I could, and love the sound of the Pluvia drivers; the Seven is a four inch. Dave (@planet10 ) said this: "Makes a good midTweeter in a WAW. So does Alpair 5.2/3 (CHN-50 if you are on a tight budget), and i expect the MAOP version (it should be killer in that application)."
https://www.markaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Pluvia-Seven-HD-gen-2-spec-sheet.pdf
For now, chosen a Fr of 45Hz (equal to Fs of the 12FH500 and about half (Fs=72,55) of the Pluvia), will achieves at least 22,5Hz on paper.
Would the Faital Pro 12FH500 and the Markaudio Pluvia Seven be a great pairing together?
Using the Faital Pro 12FH500 produces a far narrower and shallower cabinet compared to the BBBIB, only 13,34"/33,89cm internal width, 18,87"/47,93 internal depth, and a mere 74,80"/190,00 internal height.
Edit. A post by @zman01 in a different thread caused me to realize I should mention the music I enjoy is varied, pre World War Two jazz, blue grass, oldies, disco, 1980s pop, some classical, and love organ music (which I prefer above the about 35dB I normally listen at).
Last edited:
Between a quiet library (40 dB) and a quiet bedroom at night (30 dB) ?! Your old ears are doing much better than mine!
Re 300 Hz, this should be whatever is required for BSC, so whatever it takes, ergo sets driver choices; though much better to choose the drivers with 'one eye' on any box shape limitations and the XO point is what it is, though preferably will meet the ~5 octave rule.
Re 300 Hz, this should be whatever is required for BSC, so whatever it takes, ergo sets driver choices; though much better to choose the drivers with 'one eye' on any box shape limitations and the XO point is what it is, though preferably will meet the ~5 octave rule.
I am 36 and Autistic. 😛
I been having fun with this dB meter application on the cellular, the house is around 30dB unless the dogs are playing, then can hit 70dB. The complex and neighborhood is usually very quiet, only seen one neighbor one time; fireworks oddly end at nine. Plus, stucco exteriors with double pane windows.
Fine, how do we know if the drivers are a great pairing and if provide the about five octave rule, then set up the XO and low pass filter?
I been having fun with this dB meter application on the cellular, the house is around 30dB unless the dogs are playing, then can hit 70dB. The complex and neighborhood is usually very quiet, only seen one neighbor one time; fireworks oddly end at nine. Plus, stucco exteriors with double pane windows.
Fine, how do we know if the drivers are a great pairing and if provide the about five octave rule, then set up the XO and low pass filter?
OK, you said you only had SSI implying retired.
For the most part you basically don't beyond matching up efficiency IME (generally the woofer ideally needs to be 0-9 dB more efficient depending on the speaker's tuning, XO point, room gain) and relying on factory recommendations and/or folks that have 'hands on' experience with proven pairings, which there's a bunch here, P.E., AVS forums and no doubt more plus many others in Europe and posted on the net; but you've chosen the 'tweeter', so only the woofer left.
The drivers just need enough BW for the 5 octaves plus 1-2 HF octaves extra depending on the slope order for XO matching.
For the most part you basically don't beyond matching up efficiency IME (generally the woofer ideally needs to be 0-9 dB more efficient depending on the speaker's tuning, XO point, room gain) and relying on factory recommendations and/or folks that have 'hands on' experience with proven pairings, which there's a bunch here, P.E., AVS forums and no doubt more plus many others in Europe and posted on the net; but you've chosen the 'tweeter', so only the woofer left.
The drivers just need enough BW for the 5 octaves plus 1-2 HF octaves extra depending on the slope order for XO matching.
Ah, SSDI is retirement and SSI is disability. I gave a good go at working, however, my Autism combined with a medical condition makes it not possible to be traditionally employed. However, I am taking upholstery classes and trying to get a business started. I can't fire myself. 😛
My apology for coming across as if a driver or both had been chosen, we need to see them plotted.
There is 11dB difference between the possible pairing previously mentioned. I rather go more efficient than less, so looked through the Markaudio catalog. The most efficient looks to be the Markaudio CHP-90/Markaudio CHR-90, 89,2/89,4, which would give an about eight dB difference. About 2cm or about an inch bigger, listed as a five inch on Madisound.
What I think is more important is the Fs 48/44Hz, as it is now, the woofer is Fs of 45Hz; nulls the concern about Fs double Fr.
I heard it said if you want the most accurate sound, use the speaker of the era of music you are listening to. The CHP-90 is designed to have more of the sound of speakers from the 1960s and 1970s, with a slightly warmer high than the CHR-90. So there might be another advantage over using the Pluvia Seven HD.
As for five octaves, the Faital Pro 12FH500 is rated for F#1/Gb1 through B7, almost six and a half octaves and the CHP-90/CHR-90, G1 almost to A10(28,160kHz) so either call it 10 octaves or limiting to human hearing, seven and 2/3.
So are you saying cross overs are used to keep the frequency range to five octaves?
If so, why?
My apology for coming across as if a driver or both had been chosen, we need to see them plotted.
There is 11dB difference between the possible pairing previously mentioned. I rather go more efficient than less, so looked through the Markaudio catalog. The most efficient looks to be the Markaudio CHP-90/Markaudio CHR-90, 89,2/89,4, which would give an about eight dB difference. About 2cm or about an inch bigger, listed as a five inch on Madisound.
What I think is more important is the Fs 48/44Hz, as it is now, the woofer is Fs of 45Hz; nulls the concern about Fs double Fr.
I heard it said if you want the most accurate sound, use the speaker of the era of music you are listening to. The CHP-90 is designed to have more of the sound of speakers from the 1960s and 1970s, with a slightly warmer high than the CHR-90. So there might be another advantage over using the Pluvia Seven HD.
As for five octaves, the Faital Pro 12FH500 is rated for F#1/Gb1 through B7, almost six and a half octaves and the CHP-90/CHR-90, G1 almost to A10(28,160kHz) so either call it 10 octaves or limiting to human hearing, seven and 2/3.
So are you saying cross overs are used to keep the frequency range to five octaves?
If so, why?
Add the Qts' at least 2,2008 on the CHP-90/CHR-90.
I missed this, oops.
"20 Hz Fs *2^5 = 640 Hz XO upper limit or 1 kHz/2^5 = 31.25 Hz Fs lower limit."
Faital Pro 12FH500
Upper Limit
45Hz*2^5
1,44kHz
Pluvia Seven HD
72,5494Hz*2^5
2,32kHz
CHP-90
48Hz*2^5
1,536kHz
CHR-90
44,3Hz*2^5
1,4176kHz
I missed this, oops.
"20 Hz Fs *2^5 = 640 Hz XO upper limit or 1 kHz/2^5 = 31.25 Hz Fs lower limit."
Faital Pro 12FH500
Upper Limit
45Hz*2^5
1,44kHz
Pluvia Seven HD
72,5494Hz*2^5
2,32kHz
CHP-90
48Hz*2^5
1,536kHz
CHR-90
44,3Hz*2^5
1,4176kHz