I have been looking into getting a turntable again and particularly interested in a custom project.
I just got hold of large dry slab of chestnut with sone interesting patterns. I have been looking into what turntables I could use to create a solid wood plinth within a very limited budget.
The obvious choice is an old Rega Planner 2 as the design seems simple enough for a solid wood plinth. Then I have discovered a Linn Basik or Revolver may be in my price range. Would these be suitable to upgrade the plinth? Any other turntables that could be possibilities?
It would have to suit a solid wood plinth, be affordable ( ideally £100 or less), easy to still get parts for and good for future upgrades?
I just got hold of large dry slab of chestnut with sone interesting patterns. I have been looking into what turntables I could use to create a solid wood plinth within a very limited budget.
The obvious choice is an old Rega Planner 2 as the design seems simple enough for a solid wood plinth. Then I have discovered a Linn Basik or Revolver may be in my price range. Would these be suitable to upgrade the plinth? Any other turntables that could be possibilities?
It would have to suit a solid wood plinth, be affordable ( ideally £100 or less), easy to still get parts for and good for future upgrades?
Its around 8 inches but hope to make 2 plinths. A mate has a Thorens TD150 that is in desperate need of new plinth. He only wants wood round the edge unlike what I would like to do so we will end up 2 very different looking turntables.
Hopefully going to make a jig to split it with chain saw then mill each piece smooth. (car keys on wood as size context)
Hopefully going to make a jig to split it with chain saw then mill each piece smooth. (car keys on wood as size context)
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As beautiful as wood is, it might wind up with high Q resonances that might contribute to a sound of its own in addition.
You just never know though, at least with MDF you get a consistent deadness you can count on.
With certain solid woods, knots can add stress points in the structure making for a crap shoot on whether it will ring or not.
If I was going for " the look" as a first choice, it might be beneficial to hollow out the underside and fill it with 2 part epoxy and lead shot or similar so you know it will be dead and still maintain the look of wood
Regards
David
You just never know though, at least with MDF you get a consistent deadness you can count on.
With certain solid woods, knots can add stress points in the structure making for a crap shoot on whether it will ring or not.
If I was going for " the look" as a first choice, it might be beneficial to hollow out the underside and fill it with 2 part epoxy and lead shot or similar so you know it will be dead and still maintain the look of wood
Regards
David
Lead Shot. Wow was not expecting that. Heh. Thanks for tip. I am up for experimenting in mixing materials with the wood, I have even considered styling this with a concrete band under where tonearm sits.
I can't claim any real knowledge or experience here, but with that shape and obviously varying density, I wouldn't worry too much about resonance.
What is your goal? If you are trying to make a "perfect" non-resonant plinth, then you are probably starting with the wrong material. If you are wanting to build a bitchin' turntable that looks awesome and is all yours, then you are on the right track!
What is your goal? If you are trying to make a "perfect" non-resonant plinth, then you are probably starting with the wrong material. If you are wanting to build a bitchin' turntable that looks awesome and is all yours, then you are on the right track!
The wood will be trimmed to a practical size and shape. It would be interesting to still have the odd dip wheres theres a burr or some other natural features of the wood.
My Goal is although sound quality is high on the list, looks are probably the most important.
I was thinking something like this but with more interesting wood
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/360710251379141937/
My Goal is although sound quality is high on the list, looks are probably the most important.
I was thinking something like this but with more interesting wood
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/360710251379141937/
I'm thinking the "or similar" could be sand (50 lb bag of "play" sand is under $5 or so at Home Depot), and it doesn't have the potential health hazard of lead.
Is there something about lead shot that makes it "better" than sand in such an application?
Hi,
FWIW if you can go to 4 or 5 inches thick, on a budget your best
bet is probably an old idler drive Lenco with a homemade long arm.
In my youth I had a Lenco, didn't rate it. However if you ditch the
very poor springs and intimately connect the top plate to a large
solid plinth apparently they are rather good, so say the fans.
The Rega by design has a low mass plinth, you'll make it worse.
The Basik and Revolver are split plinth designs, not suitable.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW if you can go to 4 or 5 inches thick, on a budget your best
bet is probably an old idler drive Lenco with a homemade long arm.
In my youth I had a Lenco, didn't rate it. However if you ditch the
very poor springs and intimately connect the top plate to a large
solid plinth apparently they are rather good, so say the fans.
The Rega by design has a low mass plinth, you'll make it worse.
The Basik and Revolver are split plinth designs, not suitable.
rgds, sreten.
Hi, I use a Dual 701 drive and control assembly in a solid plinth. As a high mass servo direct drive it is easy to implement and extremely quiet in operation. I am using a DIY 12 inch unipivot on it with an AT33PTG/II. A really great sounding combo. It does need to be on a absorbent base. The biggest issue right now is finding an EDS1000 drive assembly at a decent price.
Hi, I used two layers of laminated pine boards. The planks were designed for use in something line a table top. I glued them together and then dis the cutting. I had previously used a number of other woods sandwiched together and looking back all seemed to work approximately the same. I suspect it has to do with the choice of drive / motor system. Any vibration would be transmitted through the plinth. When I checked the level on a scope it was well below the groove noise on a very quiet section of a test LP. I attached a photo. The arm is mounted on a sub platform of similar construction at the rear of the plinth. I originally had a more standard sized one (thus the black spot covering the hole near the arm mount). The sub platform is cork isolated from the bottom of the plinth and is adjustable in horizontal directions so that I could obtain the correct overhang. The plinth itself is on adjustable feet with sorbathane pads. The shelf is wall mounted on a brick wall.
Your choice of wood is upscale from what I did so please keep us updated on how it goes.
Your choice of wood is upscale from what I did so please keep us updated on how it goes.
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A good used Technics SP-15 would work well. I had this turntable years ago in a home made plinth made of 1 1/4" plexiglass sandwiched between 1/2" thick aluminum plates and it sounded great. Kinda sorry I sold it.
Thats great, just the info I needed. Thanks. Just looking at some Lenco custom projects. Particularly like L75 & B55.
Sounds interesting but may be a little too complicated for first turntable project.
Some great ideas here, well thought out. Thanks for sharing.
A friend at work today suggested Technics SP-10. Either may be out of price range but these and some Lenco are now on my "keep and eye out for" list 🙂
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