Hi Guys,
After some questions about designing a enclosure for the tannoy 3836 (3833)
I decided to “keep it simple” and just use the system 15 DMT II design.
Here’s the problem.
I downloaded the normal manual and the “Operating and Servive Manual” of the Tannoy monitor series.
The normal manual states the system 15 DMT II has a cabinet of 140 litre.
In the “Operating and Servive Manual” it’s 100 Litre !
(outer demensions are the same)
Since the cabinet demensions and the thickness of the used materials for front, back, top, bottom and sides are also described i can safely conclude there is a fault in the the “Operating and Servive Manual”.
(if i take of the size of the panels, it’s 149,5 liter. Then the bracing etc. So i think the 140 litre in the normal manual is correct.)
My question,
The “Operating and Servive Manual” says the system 15 DMT II uses 110 OD x 250mm port tubes.
OD i assume is outer diameter.
Can someone that has these speakers confirm the exact demensions?
Maybe meassure the diameter and length of the port tubes?
Cheers!
After some questions about designing a enclosure for the tannoy 3836 (3833)
I decided to “keep it simple” and just use the system 15 DMT II design.
Here’s the problem.
I downloaded the normal manual and the “Operating and Servive Manual” of the Tannoy monitor series.
The normal manual states the system 15 DMT II has a cabinet of 140 litre.
In the “Operating and Servive Manual” it’s 100 Litre !
(outer demensions are the same)
Since the cabinet demensions and the thickness of the used materials for front, back, top, bottom and sides are also described i can safely conclude there is a fault in the the “Operating and Servive Manual”.
(if i take of the size of the panels, it’s 149,5 liter. Then the bracing etc. So i think the 140 litre in the normal manual is correct.)
My question,
The “Operating and Servive Manual” says the system 15 DMT II uses 110 OD x 250mm port tubes.
OD i assume is outer diameter.
Can someone that has these speakers confirm the exact demensions?
Maybe meassure the diameter and length of the port tubes?
Cheers!
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One of the benefits of a larger enclosure is the outer baffle. A larger baffle contains the wayward sound within the room to some extent, by lowering the frequency of the baffle step.
That said, using smaller enclosures has it's benefits. Some these days build a reasonable sized sealed box and use EQ to 'simulate' different enclosures. There is another crowd that likes to build undersized sealed enclosures and use aperiodic damping to increase the apparent size of the box.
That said, using smaller enclosures has it's benefits. Some these days build a reasonable sized sealed box and use EQ to 'simulate' different enclosures. There is another crowd that likes to build undersized sealed enclosures and use aperiodic damping to increase the apparent size of the box.
I have System 15 DMTii. I’ll try and measure the internal diameter of the ports a little later and post results.
For inspiration:
https://www.hilberink.nl/codehans
/tannoy149.htm
Also, maybe join the Tannoy group if you haven’t? That’s where I’ve asked for help in my Tannoy adventures so far.
https://groups.io/g/Tannoy/topics?p=recentpostdate/sticky,,,20,2,0,90436476
ZM may chime in…he’s had his own adventures and even shared some MLTL plans with me.
For inspiration:
https://www.hilberink.nl/codehans
/tannoy149.htm
Also, maybe join the Tannoy group if you haven’t? That’s where I’ve asked for help in my Tannoy adventures so far.
https://groups.io/g/Tannoy/topics?p=recentpostdate/sticky,,,20,2,0,90436476
ZM may chime in…he’s had his own adventures and even shared some MLTL plans with me.
Attachments
Had time to quickly take a measurement with a bore gauge while I waited for
my daughter to get ready for school.
I get about 104.5 mm internal diameter. Measured both ports in both speakers consistently.
There is a lip at the beginning if the port due to a smaller baffle hole.
The baffle hole bore measured just under 99 mm.
See pics.
P.S. I’m wondering if the internal volume of 100 liters is the volume left after loses from bracing and speaker basket etc….starting volume being 140 liters. Can’t remember if I came across that information somewhere.
my daughter to get ready for school.
I get about 104.5 mm internal diameter. Measured both ports in both speakers consistently.
There is a lip at the beginning if the port due to a smaller baffle hole.
The baffle hole bore measured just under 99 mm.
See pics.
P.S. I’m wondering if the internal volume of 100 liters is the volume left after loses from bracing and speaker basket etc….starting volume being 140 liters. Can’t remember if I came across that information somewhere.
Attachments
thank you!!! for the first meassurements. (and the links. very helpfull)
i attached the “Operating and Servive Manual” and the normal manual.
I came tot the 140 Liter this way:
Both manuals state cabinet dimensions of 840 x 550 x 440mm and cabinet construction.
36mm front and back 20,6mm top, bottom and sides.
If i calculated correct that would leave 798,8 x 508,8 x 368 (after taking of the thickness of each panel)
This would make 149,5 Liter, would 9,5 liter of bracing be realistic?
i attached the “Operating and Servive Manual” and the normal manual.
I came tot the 140 Liter this way:
Both manuals state cabinet dimensions of 840 x 550 x 440mm and cabinet construction.
36mm front and back 20,6mm top, bottom and sides.
If i calculated correct that would leave 798,8 x 508,8 x 368 (after taking of the thickness of each panel)
This would make 149,5 Liter, would 9,5 liter of bracing be realistic?
Attachments
Forgot to measure length of ports.
With ruler stuck inside port. Felt for ruler flush with internal end of port tube and took pic.
Looks like about 25 cm if port tube. Another ~18mm of baffle thickness material.
Assuming a thicker front baffle (I think that info is in one of manuals) with a counter sunk hole to mount port tube.
With ruler stuck inside port. Felt for ruler flush with internal end of port tube and took pic.
Looks like about 25 cm if port tube. Another ~18mm of baffle thickness material.
Assuming a thicker front baffle (I think that info is in one of manuals) with a counter sunk hole to mount port tube.
Attachments
--- hello... I need all the specifications of the 15 DMT II tweeter, if that is possible of course.... Nevertheless, it's VERY important.....
Because, i have the occassion to buy the DMT II, but there is no tweeter on them... Strange situation, i know.... So i will put a similar tweeter with the same caracteristics... well, close as possible....
Until than, i'll pray very hard... 😉
Because, i have the occassion to buy the DMT II, but there is no tweeter on them... Strange situation, i know.... So i will put a similar tweeter with the same caracteristics... well, close as possible....
Until than, i'll pray very hard... 😉
No tweeters, that really is a problem. Sometimes they pop up on the bay. But you need to be lucky.
I did a quick search and could not find anything about them.
Maybe you should have look around on the tannoy group chromenuts suggested. (Post #3) It has loads of information.
I'll take a look around to, and if I find something I'll let you know.
That said, I think finding a tweeter that works with the (bass-) drivers...that is not the original...will not be possible.
(You really need the waveguides/tulip horns)
Still, if I had the chance and they where near me, I would pick up the DMT's and have patience in finding a pair of original tweeters.
I did a quick search and could not find anything about them.
Maybe you should have look around on the tannoy group chromenuts suggested. (Post #3) It has loads of information.
I'll take a look around to, and if I find something I'll let you know.
That said, I think finding a tweeter that works with the (bass-) drivers...that is not the original...will not be possible.
(You really need the waveguides/tulip horns)
Still, if I had the chance and they where near me, I would pick up the DMT's and have patience in finding a pair of original tweeters.
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https://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy118.htmI seem to remember years ago on the Tannoy group one member (cookyxxxx) removed the tweeters from two 15" Tannoys to build his 215DMTs.
Everyone seems to be on the same page with the tweeterless drivers…its the first thing I thought of…but not everyone has room for a 215 cabinet. 😢
I’m currently working on some baffles to experiment with a pair of k3149 12” LGM drivers I picked up on eBay after they had new surrounds installed.
My plan is to run them in on open baffles with some AE Dipole 15 and then test them on the DATS to see where the T/S parameters are at.
Once I have those up and running I’d like to eventually go through my DMT and freshen up the cabinets (scratches, dings & new screen cloth) inspect/service the tweeter ferrofluid and maybe upgrade the caps in the crossovers.
After searching for a while I discovered original paint info doesn’t appear to exist…I’ll have to wing it.
Ferrofluid replacement seems almost like a black art regarding specifics of what type of fluid and how much.
My impression regarding the DMT crossover after reading quite a bit is that it is pretty good. I would probably just use some Dayton or affordable Solen caps if I wanted to freshen it up.
ZM actually suggested using the CPA 15 crossover with an MLTL and the 3833.
I’m currently working on some baffles to experiment with a pair of k3149 12” LGM drivers I picked up on eBay after they had new surrounds installed.
My plan is to run them in on open baffles with some AE Dipole 15 and then test them on the DATS to see where the T/S parameters are at.
Once I have those up and running I’d like to eventually go through my DMT and freshen up the cabinets (scratches, dings & new screen cloth) inspect/service the tweeter ferrofluid and maybe upgrade the caps in the crossovers.
After searching for a while I discovered original paint info doesn’t appear to exist…I’ll have to wing it.
Ferrofluid replacement seems almost like a black art regarding specifics of what type of fluid and how much.
My impression regarding the DMT crossover after reading quite a bit is that it is pretty good. I would probably just use some Dayton or affordable Solen caps if I wanted to freshen it up.
ZM actually suggested using the CPA 15 crossover with an MLTL and the 3833.
I came across the Nextel paint reference in my reading as well…maybe in a Tannoy group thread?
It wasn’t clear if that was actually the original paint or just something that was the closest match someone found?
I only had a tab open with the Nextel paint referenced.
My DMTii have a a flat black finish…strangely, it doesn’t appear to be over grey paint where the chips and scratches are.
There are a few chips in the frame of one of the drivers which has the grey finish.
I figured I would take it to a paint shop and select a chip to have some touch up paint mixed…I doubt they could do a scan of the frame as its not enough surface area.
It wasn’t clear if that was actually the original paint or just something that was the closest match someone found?
I only had a tab open with the Nextel paint referenced.
My DMTii have a a flat black finish…strangely, it doesn’t appear to be over grey paint where the chips and scratches are.
There are a few chips in the frame of one of the drivers which has the grey finish.
I figured I would take it to a paint shop and select a chip to have some touch up paint mixed…I doubt they could do a scan of the frame as its not enough surface area.
I've found it here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tannoy-dmt-12-15-monitor-question.324606/
I think it would be very difficult indeed to match the paint.
My 3836 drivers also have some scratches on the frame .
Since I'm building new cabinets I plan on just painting them in a nice color.
Black or maybe the gold that tannoy uses.
I have two identical wooden cabinets (furniture)
that will be transformed into speaker.
Fronts are exactly the same measurements as the DMT's . Only it wil be in a horizontal position.
Since the old cabinets have feat the hight isn't a problem.
So in short, I will be building a heavily braced mdf box of the same volume as the DMT's inside these existing cabinets. There made of pinewood, so it's necessary to go this route.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tannoy-dmt-12-15-monitor-question.324606/
I think it would be very difficult indeed to match the paint.
My 3836 drivers also have some scratches on the frame .
Since I'm building new cabinets I plan on just painting them in a nice color.
Black or maybe the gold that tannoy uses.
I have two identical wooden cabinets (furniture)
that will be transformed into speaker.
Fronts are exactly the same measurements as the DMT's . Only it wil be in a horizontal position.
Since the old cabinets have feat the hight isn't a problem.
So in short, I will be building a heavily braced mdf box of the same volume as the DMT's inside these existing cabinets. There made of pinewood, so it's necessary to go this route.
I did a quick sketch of what I have in mind.
So nothing is to scale etc.
I was thinking, maybe sand down the cabinets and give them a dark stain like tannoy uses in their prestige series. Then paint driver frames gold.
Maybe try to remove the ornaments on the cabinets.
I know going this route can lead to some "problems" sound wise. Diffractions etc etc etc.
Since the DMT's where used in studios where they where build into walls, hung from the ceiling or placed on whatever was useful, I think I can get away with building them in a cabinet.
And I will not be using them for critical listening anyway.
These will be used for day to day "normal" use.
Background to high volume dancing in the living room. But still delivering a very good quality of sound.
I find myself in the strange position that I do not take the time anymore to sit and listen/analysing the sound. I'm more feeling/enjoying the music.
And caring less about..is the image spot on etc
(But maybe that's the point of good music/sound?)
Going to be a fun project.
So nothing is to scale etc.
I was thinking, maybe sand down the cabinets and give them a dark stain like tannoy uses in their prestige series. Then paint driver frames gold.
Maybe try to remove the ornaments on the cabinets.
I know going this route can lead to some "problems" sound wise. Diffractions etc etc etc.
Since the DMT's where used in studios where they where build into walls, hung from the ceiling or placed on whatever was useful, I think I can get away with building them in a cabinet.
And I will not be using them for critical listening anyway.
These will be used for day to day "normal" use.
Background to high volume dancing in the living room. But still delivering a very good quality of sound.
I find myself in the strange position that I do not take the time anymore to sit and listen/analysing the sound. I'm more feeling/enjoying the music.
And caring less about..is the image spot on etc
(But maybe that's the point of good music/sound?)
Going to be a fun project.
Attachments
Thanks guys... It's seem that cooky or cookyxxxx is no more in the panel's members..... If i wrote is nick name correctly ?????Cooky might still have the tweeters he removed. Who knows?
And i do not understand this cooky guy... Why did he build a 215 MDT without tweeters ????? Does his woofer became FULL range ?????
And finally, it does'nt matter to me if the tweeter is not in the center of the woofer... Maybe i can find a tweeter that have the same close caracteristics than the original... --- By the way, the owner ask $ 450 canadien dollars... They are in very good condition do.... (sorry, i usally worit in french)...
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