Hey,
I've got a new-to-me Technics SL-1600mk2 (like 1200, but with suspended platter and tonearm and fully automatic), and while setting it up and adjusting it, I found that the tonearm had a bit of play in the top bearing of the gimbal mechanism. I know that to adjust this you need to unscrew the outer locking ring and then the bearing pin can be adjusted, but I couldn't get that outer ring to budge.
I was just using some screwdrivers to try to twist it by pushing on both sides of the locking ring. I oiled it last night, and I'll check it later today, but it doesn't seem like it's going to go.
Should I be doing something else? Is there a special tool that one should use to adjust these things? Like some kind of a split flat-bladed screwdriver? Thanks for your help.
I've got a new-to-me Technics SL-1600mk2 (like 1200, but with suspended platter and tonearm and fully automatic), and while setting it up and adjusting it, I found that the tonearm had a bit of play in the top bearing of the gimbal mechanism. I know that to adjust this you need to unscrew the outer locking ring and then the bearing pin can be adjusted, but I couldn't get that outer ring to budge.
I was just using some screwdrivers to try to twist it by pushing on both sides of the locking ring. I oiled it last night, and I'll check it later today, but it doesn't seem like it's going to go.
Should I be doing something else? Is there a special tool that one should use to adjust these things? Like some kind of a split flat-bladed screwdriver? Thanks for your help.
You could look and find a ''special'',blade screwdriver with resessed (cut) center.This will help toy have a tight grip on the outer locking nut without touching the center screw.It should be easy to find it in a good tool shop.
philibuster,yes.one of those will be the correct size for the locking nut.Good luck with your search.
Not wanting to spoil the fun, but simply put: you can't adjust anything on the bearings.
Either the arm is fine or you'll end up replacing it.
Let us know in case you ultimately found a way to fix it.
/Hugo
Either the arm is fine or you'll end up replacing it.
Let us know in case you ultimately found a way to fix it.
/Hugo
Netlist said:
Not true.
Back off locking nut with needle nosed pliers held apart.
I've done several arms this way.
🙂/sreten.
What I meant is that since the bearing most likely has clearance, it might miss one or more balls. Tightening the bearing will not remedy this. I’ve come across many arms like that in 1210’s. (Reckless DJ’s 🙂 ) So, you are correct if the arm has no ‘history’ but even then I never managed to get it into specs like a new one. Since my last attempt many moons ago, I simply replace them.
/Hugo
/Hugo
I suppose that makes sense, because how could you get clearance in the bearing without some deformation of it or its opposite pair? Good thing the tonearms are cheap (~60).
For now, it's only a hair of movement, but I'll leave it where it is. I just don't want to screw it up even more.
For now, it's only a hair of movement, but I'll leave it where it is. I just don't want to screw it up even more.
Netlist said:
Actually, there are no balls. It is a needle bearing. I adjusted mine on my old 1300. Didn't do much good. This is a terribly inferior arm. If you feel adventurous and simply insist on a technics arm. I would put a new 1200 arm on the deck. you will lose any auto functions (if this deck has them) but you will be far more satisfied with this arm. When setting this arm up, remember a high compliance cart is not particularly good for it. Resonant frequency will mismatch and tracking will be quite poor (relatively speaking). Good luck with it! If you feel really adventurous, try doing what I have done wiht my 1200 and put a real audiophile grade arm on it. I posted on here with photos. 1200 MKII with SME IIIs arm.
Tom
But aren't the SL1200mkII and SL1600mkII equipped with the same arm? (Apart from manual/automatic)
Indeed very different than the SL1300 arm.
Have to check again but IIRC they have ball bearings.
/Hugo
Indeed very different than the SL1300 arm.
Have to check again but IIRC they have ball bearings.
/Hugo
Netlist said:
I apoligize, I went and looked it up. They are indeed the exact same arm. I assumed that since the years they were released were so close to one another that the 1600 had the same dinosaur of an arm as the 1300. That arm does use needle bearings. If in fact the bearings are loose, I would imagine that tightening the set screwed would not help. If in fact someone loosened them (a DJ for instance attempting a looser system so the insane tracking force they use is unimpeeded) then tightening just may help. Good luck!
Tom
I have adjust my SL-1200MK2
The Lateral (the one on top) is quite easy to get right.
With no play and the arm free floating when you turn the antiskating slighty to less than 0.5 grams the arm should start to come back to it's rest.
With the vertical plane only one side is needed for adjustment but you will need a small piece of 20 lbs paper of about 1.5 cm² that you drop on the headshell when free floating , if there is any movement lock it softly and check if any play repeat till you get it right.
If still some play go a bit bigger at 1.75 cm² then 2 cm²
A 1 cm² of 20lbs paper weight 7mg but is almost impossible to achieve.
The Lateral (the one on top) is quite easy to get right.
With no play and the arm free floating when you turn the antiskating slighty to less than 0.5 grams the arm should start to come back to it's rest.
With the vertical plane only one side is needed for adjustment but you will need a small piece of 20 lbs paper of about 1.5 cm² that you drop on the headshell when free floating , if there is any movement lock it softly and check if any play repeat till you get it right.
If still some play go a bit bigger at 1.75 cm² then 2 cm²
A 1 cm² of 20lbs paper weight 7mg but is almost impossible to achieve.
Nice way to calibrate. I usually use the layman's method: blow on the head shell area in zero position. If the slightest wind makes the arm move I know it's OK. 🙂
If not I fit another arm.
/Hugo
If not I fit another arm.
/Hugo
I would also like to try this on my SL1200...
Do I have to unscrew the outher screw only half a turn or so, or do I have to unscrew the outher screw entirely before adjusting using the inner screw?
Do I have to unscrew the outher screw only half a turn or so, or do I have to unscrew the outher screw entirely before adjusting using the inner screw?
Release the outer one a bit,enough so that the inner one can move.Adjust the inner one where you feel it is ok (holding the outer one not to move)and then tighten the outer one securely,but not too much.Too much tightening of the outer one will "pull" the inner one out as much as the threads tolerances allow,and you might have some play again.
A newbie question: when setting up the arm initially with the counter-balance weight (and anti-skating set to zero), should the arm be able to float and remain "stationary" in "any" position in the plane (e.g., at the outer edge as well as towards the center of the record)? I was never able to achieve that - the arm always swings back towards the outer region of the platter, even though the player is positioned carefully with a level indicator. Is this a normal behavior, or an indication of bad bearings or something else not right? Thanks.thinker10 said:
It seems that your arm has excessive antiskating at "zero" position.Usually Rega arms have this.Nothing to worry about though,you just adjust the final antiskating manually and forget about the readings
2004ex said:
This is normal if the arm does it very slowly. If it does that at the speed as if you would activate your anti skating, the bearing is broken.
/Hugo
The tonearm of my technics with no friction starts moving to home position when anti-skating setting is approximately 2.
My other tonearm (which has a little friction) starts moving to home position when anti-skating is set to 0 and moves faster with higher anti-skating setting.
Is really because of a broken bearing that it doesn't move @ low anti-skating setting or could it also be causing because it needs a tiny drop of oil or is just to tight?
My other tonearm (which has a little friction) starts moving to home position when anti-skating is set to 0 and moves faster with higher anti-skating setting.
Is really because of a broken bearing that it doesn't move @ low anti-skating setting or could it also be causing because it needs a tiny drop of oil or is just to tight?
Bart2k,I suppose you talk about two identical tonearms.If so,I would suspect antiskating tension inconsistency first and then the possibility of a broken bearing.What is a broken bearing afterall?Usually they are closed type,(although I have to admit that I have a long time to see a Technics arm bearing,so I'm not sure about them),and quite robust.And no oil to the bearings.It will perhaps help at first,but after some time it will dry out causing a sticky bearing.As I said in a previous post,adjust the antiskating manually watching how the stylus sits in the first groove and forget the readings on the scales.It is the same story with tracking force.Your arm might show say 2gr. and another tracking force gauge might show 2.1 or 1.9gr.Which is the correct?I would say your ears after manual(personal)adjustment of the tracking force,or antiskating in your case.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.