I am going to make up a power supply board (switch, fuse, xformer, rectifier, caps) for gainclones and similarly powered amps that I can pull out of a case and insert into another case to play around with different amps, but having to need only a single PSU. I found the terminal block shown in the pic, I think it may be the simplest way to do that. I would have one on the xformer to rectifier board (so I can switch out different rectifier boards) and then another set from the PSU board to the amp board. Thing is, there are 2600 pages of terminal blocks on digikey and I can't find this style. Anyone know what this type of terminal block is called or can point me to a model number?
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farnell calls them euro blocks. Originals made in finland I believe. A four receptacle one I have is molex PN 39100-1004.
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That's it, thanks.
Digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-shore-technology-inc/ES0800-08DSFB/ED2999-ND/2720746
They are referred to as "eurostyle terminal strip."
Digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-shore-technology-inc/ES0800-08DSFB/ED2999-ND/2720746
They are referred to as "eurostyle terminal strip."
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/TB300-06B/283-4029-ND/1878295
I prefer these if only because I got accustomed with them working in old power plants through the years. Different sizes, terminal numbers and voltage ratings are available.
I prefer these if only because I got accustomed with them working in old power plants through the years. Different sizes, terminal numbers and voltage ratings are available.
If you are going for high current capability, then here's a trick I use rather than buying enormous 40A versions.
Strip the insulation off so that the bared copper conductor passes under both screws.
Do the same for the cable entering from the other side.
Now when you screw down with each screw it presses the in and out wires together.
This way you get two compression connections of the actual current conductor.
You do not need to rely on the conductivity of the brass terminal block, nor on any corrosion inside the terminal block.
A 4sqmm terminal block has a hole of ~2.3mm diameter and easily takes two 1mm wires passing through.
6sqmm takes two 1.3mm diameter wires.
10sqmm takes two 1.7mm diameter wires. This will easily cope with >27Apk
Strip the insulation off so that the bared copper conductor passes under both screws.
Do the same for the cable entering from the other side.
Now when you screw down with each screw it presses the in and out wires together.
This way you get two compression connections of the actual current conductor.
You do not need to rely on the conductivity of the brass terminal block, nor on any corrosion inside the terminal block.
A 4sqmm terminal block has a hole of ~2.3mm diameter and easily takes two 1mm wires passing through.
6sqmm takes two 1.3mm diameter wires.
10sqmm takes two 1.7mm diameter wires. This will easily cope with >27Apk
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In the UK they are known as 'chocolate block connectors', because the original ones were made in brown Bakelite.
In France we referred to them as Sugar Cubes or Dominoes. They are the most common type of terminal block.
Here is another link- Terminal Strips | All Electronics Corp.
THere are a few that look like yours
Sometimes its easier to go with a smaller store.
THere are a few that look like yours
Sometimes its easier to go with a smaller store.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/TB300-06B/283-4029-ND/1878295
I prefer these if only because I got accustomed with them working in old power plants through the years. Different sizes, terminal numbers and voltage ratings are available.
These are way better than the euro style connectors as you can use them as AndrewT pointed out.
Otherwise use these with ring of fork type connectors that can be crimped to the wires. Better connection.
These are way better than the euro style connectors as you can use them as AndrewT pointed out.
Otherwise use these with ring of fork type connectors that can be crimped to the wires. Better connection.
The screws on these are very short so if you need a couple of wires on one side/screw you run into problems. Maybe 2 ring connectors on top of each other max. Also they are so shallow compared to the height of the crimp that you have trouble with more than 2 (angle one down and the other up and that's about as good as it gets).
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More common than they used to be, but not normal here. Thus the moniker "Euro"Are these really rare in the US or something? In the UK we're tripping over the things!
The screws on these are very short so if you need a couple of wires on one side/screw you run into problems. Maybe 2 ring connectors on top of each other max. Also they are so shallow compared to the height of the crimp that you have trouble with more than 2 (angle one down and the other up and that's about as good as it gets).
Never ran into that issue as most are well designed. They are meant to be used with ring/fork connector at each side and even then they are way better than the Euro blocks as the total contact surface is larger and connection is made on a flat surface too. Euro blocks are for 230V AC etc. purposes. I know they exist in larger sizes but they are known for burning out when some current passes through and the screw or wire is not fitted the right way. Contact area is a round hole which makes it dependent on the screw and contact spring. In many companies it is forbidden to use them in mains circuits (even though they are approved). I would never use them in audio devices.
The more recent Wago types are more common here as they make a good connection, are safe and reliable. They are meant for 230V AC mains purposes and have the nice feature that they can be used for both solid and flexible wiring. No way that one can touch mains carrying parts with these.
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Are these really rare in the US or something? In the UK we're tripping over the things!
Here's how we do it here in the USA.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_hVOW2U7K4-M/SgJBN-kn6UI/AAAAAAABAVY/hgXofZ6n3Ag/s800/x2.jpg
Worked for a US company for quite some time and I have seen some things but cabling was done tidy. Never seen a situation like that.
@ DreadPirate: I think these are good for your purposes: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/TB300-03/283-4027-ND/1878281
For the mains side of a transformer you better use the chassis mount fused grey types. These have the PE connection in the middle and the screw makes direct contact with the chassis. Just a reminder, many have used the middle contact for L or N with issues ;-)
http://nl.farnell.com/metway-electrical-industries/503si03e/terminal-block-fused-3pos/dp/1134205
@ DreadPirate: I think these are good for your purposes: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/TB300-03/283-4027-ND/1878281
For the mains side of a transformer you better use the chassis mount fused grey types. These have the PE connection in the middle and the screw makes direct contact with the chassis. Just a reminder, many have used the middle contact for L or N with issues ;-)
http://nl.farnell.com/metway-electrical-industries/503si03e/terminal-block-fused-3pos/dp/1134205
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Nice. I used to work for British Telecom and I've seen many a cabinet as tidy as that
One of our computer labs is a room 40' x 60' with a 3' high false floor.
The space underneath the floor is literally FULL of wiring from 60+ years
of reworking the space. It makes that photo look tame, and copper recyclers envious.
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No gigabit over CAT 6 I suppose ? 🙂
I'd have to lead an expedition down in there to find out.
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