Until now I have always just used the stick on printed labels on my amplifier front panels.
Is there a more professional way to do this as a DIYer ?
Is there a more professional way to do this as a DIYer ?
Hi,
Dry transfer lettering, commonly known as :
Letraset. Then lacquer. The first few layers need to
be thin so as not to dissolve / crack the letters.
Letraset - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Black or white. The spacing system is not intuitive.
You add the spacers and then remove them.
They form a continuous straight line.
You can use them on the edge of masking tape.
rgds, sreten.
Dry transfer lettering, commonly known as :
Letraset. Then lacquer. The first few layers need to
be thin so as not to dissolve / crack the letters.
Letraset - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Black or white. The spacing system is not intuitive.
You add the spacers and then remove them.
They form a continuous straight line.
You can use them on the edge of masking tape.
rgds, sreten.
Last edited:
I used to use Letraset for school projects. I've found spacing guidelines in the standards in place for the construction of road signs. It's not intuitive but an artistic talent will find the right way to do it.
Lorem Ipsum LOL.
Lorem Ipsum LOL.
For aluminum, you can use a process comparable to PCB fabrication: you prepare a transparent film with the front panel's graphics, you spray a positive resin on the aluminum, expose to UV light and develop with an alkaline solution, the same way as a PCB.
At that stage, you will have your graphics (positive or negative, depends on what you want to do) as resin left on the front panel.
You could leave it that way, the resin normally has rather dark color, but it is not very durable.
To improve matters, you can use additional steps. One possibility is to use a water based dye. It will penetrate the surface of the anodization, or the hydroxide layer created by the alkaline solution, and it can be cooked/rinsed with hot water to lock the coloration.
You can then remove the resin with acetone. For this method, you would want to use a negative film.
Another option is to engrave the exposed aluminum parts using an acidic solution: hydrochloric acid activated with water peroxide, or ferric chloride for example.
This will create a contrast between the protected and unprotected surfaces of the aluminum.
You can even arrive at a relief engraving with a deep etching.
For this method, both negative and positive films are usable, depending on the aspect and the effect you want to achieve.
Note that you have to do a number of tests with any method, because you need to get the concentrations, timing, etc right.
When you feel you master the process sufficiently, you can proceed to the real thing...
At that stage, you will have your graphics (positive or negative, depends on what you want to do) as resin left on the front panel.
You could leave it that way, the resin normally has rather dark color, but it is not very durable.
To improve matters, you can use additional steps. One possibility is to use a water based dye. It will penetrate the surface of the anodization, or the hydroxide layer created by the alkaline solution, and it can be cooked/rinsed with hot water to lock the coloration.
You can then remove the resin with acetone. For this method, you would want to use a negative film.
Another option is to engrave the exposed aluminum parts using an acidic solution: hydrochloric acid activated with water peroxide, or ferric chloride for example.
This will create a contrast between the protected and unprotected surfaces of the aluminum.
You can even arrive at a relief engraving with a deep etching.
For this method, both negative and positive films are usable, depending on the aspect and the effect you want to achieve.
Note that you have to do a number of tests with any method, because you need to get the concentrations, timing, etc right.
When you feel you master the process sufficiently, you can proceed to the real thing...
Our local trophy shop has a laser 'engraver' - I haven't tried it out yet, but in conversation with the owner, and having a look at the machine, it is big enough to take 19 inch rack panels.
For something really special, that you are always going to be looking at, Letraset just doesn't work - unless you are really good at laying it out!
Indications around control knobs are also difficult to do accurately.
I have some very old sheets (25+ years old?) - which I was surprised to find recently - still work OK!
Thinking back to the past, before computer desk top publishing and CAD programs - the best way to use Letraset was to apply a thin coat of matt spray varnish (this was available from Letraset).
After it was dry, the lettering could be applied, then another coat added - this resulted in quite a tough finish.
In conclusion - think engraving, conventional or laser.......
For something really special, that you are always going to be looking at, Letraset just doesn't work - unless you are really good at laying it out!
Indications around control knobs are also difficult to do accurately.
I have some very old sheets (25+ years old?) - which I was surprised to find recently - still work OK!
Thinking back to the past, before computer desk top publishing and CAD programs - the best way to use Letraset was to apply a thin coat of matt spray varnish (this was available from Letraset).
After it was dry, the lettering could be applied, then another coat added - this resulted in quite a tough finish.
In conclusion - think engraving, conventional or laser.......
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