The alternative being a giant box which my wife would hate, and more expensive and when would I ever get to that. Now I know well the wall is not the greatest "enclosure" but then again
6x12" seems like a lot of cone area, heh heh
Oh and I'm thinking by necessity small woofers on the side of the TV-Arendal 1961 would have been PERFECT but are gone gone gone. So a big advantage to in-wall is I could run the woofers up to 150-200 Hz which would better match like a Genelec 8030 or maybe JBL CBT 70J-1...
- I had 8" in-walls in a previous house, and my brother does now, and it's not the end of the world.
- I could fit certainly 4 quite possibly 6 in the available stud bays, possibly mounted higher and thus pretty hidden by the TV (now 75"...85" coming). Thus the pressure in each cavity and the motion of each woofer would not be so much.
- I see various grilles which could suit
- But mounting, ha ha that's the joker. There are some actual in-wall subwoofer kits not expensive but performance unknown and no parameters and 10" max. Whereas there are certainly 12" shallow enough to mount in a wall with parameters yielding maybe decent results in the large stud bay "enclosure." Screwing a 12" into drywall seems dubious-thoughts?
6x12" seems like a lot of cone area, heh heh
Oh and I'm thinking by necessity small woofers on the side of the TV-Arendal 1961 would have been PERFECT but are gone gone gone. So a big advantage to in-wall is I could run the woofers up to 150-200 Hz which would better match like a Genelec 8030 or maybe JBL CBT 70J-1...
Do you know about (double) bass arrays? What you think about is one of the best ways at all to create low frequencies in a room!
How is your wall construction? Give us a sketch.
When you want to do it properly you very likely need to strengthen the given structure ... what is possible to do? Just cutting a hole in one layer plasterboard is not strong enough.
How is your wall construction? Give us a sketch.
When you want to do it properly you very likely need to strengthen the given structure ... what is possible to do? Just cutting a hole in one layer plasterboard is not strong enough.
I'd agree screwing a 12" into drywall, or depending on drywall cavities will be problematic if you want loud sub levels without lots of noise.
You would probably want the top speakers to be flush or a bit in front of the TV screen to avoid diffraction.
Assuming the front of the top speakers are ~8" from the wall, with a 3" depth TV, there is around 9 cubic feet/250 liters (gross) hidden behind it, without cutting any holes in the wall. Well braced 1/2" ply could be used for cabinet construction.
A few more inches off the wall, and a lot more volume opens up, and larger woofers could be side mounted without going wider than the top speakers already extend.
Making "L" shaped cabinets, the volume available behind the TV could be used, and a single fabric grill matching your wife's decor choice could cover the speakers on either side.
It's not cheap, but it's a thing.
www.jlaudio.com/collections/home-audio-fathom-in-wall-subwoofers/products/iwsv2-sys-113-home-audio-in-wall-subwoofer-systems
Fathom® IWSv2-SYS-113
13.5-inch (345 mm) In-Wall v2 Powered Subwoofer System
No, what's that? As for the walls, at the moment they are what they are. Maybe in some future I would open up the wall in the hallway behind to reinforce but that will not happen soon due to umpteen other things going on like needing a kitchen remodel, planning an African trip, other stuff.
I presume that means opening the wall? And yeah if I was going to spend that much I think I would build external. I wonder how high in frequency that goes? Paradigm had a unit (also not cheap) with internal opposed like 3x9" woofers for force canceling-discontinued now anyway.
That's a very interesting idea-though I was planning to stick the modem and router and amps back there. They could go in the hallway behind. I'll have to look-the back of the TV and the mount eat into some available space. But still it might be possible to make an actual box subwoofer up behind there.
From the installation manual on Support page:
"The Fathom IWS enclosure is designed to suspend from a single anchor
point inside the wall cavity of 16-inch, on-center stud (aluminum or wood)
construction homes. Once installed, the enclosure will “hang” snugly within
the wall cavity. The enclosure has various spacers and padding applied to
specific areas, allowing it to only make gentle contact with its surrounding
wallboard surfaces."
Spec page says:
"Frequency Response (Anechoic) 26 Hz - 101 Hz (± 1.5 dB) -3dB at 25 Hz / 112 Hz -10dB at 22 Hz / 150 Hz"
and
"Filter Slope(s) 12/24 dB/octave
Filter Frequency Range 30 Hz - 130 Hz"
Whats below the room? Could diy something like this if you have space in the basement...
https://www.jamesloudspeaker.com/products/18
https://www.jamesloudspeaker.com/products/18
Inwall shallow mounting depth sub.
Not sure you have the room, but this one recently released 😃
25 mm xmax and 9" mounting depth, xbl2 topology neo motor.
https://stereointegrity.com/product/hfs-24/
Not sure you have the room, but this one recently released 😃
25 mm xmax and 9" mounting depth, xbl2 topology neo motor.
https://stereointegrity.com/product/hfs-24/
Drywall/sheetrock is one of the cheapest building materials available and super easy to work with. If you’re gonna do this, do it properly. And jeez, the stuff is so easy to work with.
But you’ll need to know the depth of each stud cavity. Could be 3.75” which limits what drivers you can use with the mounting depth restriction. The Auto sound world has lots of shallow mount sub options available.
My advice is: Don't do it.
Assuming the drivers to be rigidly mounted, you might be hearing the excursion of the walls as much as the drivers at low frequencies
Think about it this way, the drivers have a small cone area compared to the surface area of the wall. An excursion of say 5mm from the driver to produce a given SPL, say 100dB, would only require the wall to move a tiny fraction of that amount for the same SPL
Either the wall needs to be extremely stiff and massive eg brick, concrete etc or the driver needs to be decoupled from the wall. Decoupling is extremely difficult to achieve over more than a very narrow frequency range
I think a better plan would be to make boxes for the drivers and cut large holes to allow the boxes to sit it the wall without touching it. The small gap between box and wall can be filled with foam etc but there will be acoustic leakage between rooms
A similar logic is behind the reason different speaker boxes can sound so different, the listener is often hearing the box as much as the driver
It's a also the reason it's desirable to minimise coupling between a speaker box and the floor, ie by using spikes or decoupling pads
Assuming the drivers to be rigidly mounted, you might be hearing the excursion of the walls as much as the drivers at low frequencies
Think about it this way, the drivers have a small cone area compared to the surface area of the wall. An excursion of say 5mm from the driver to produce a given SPL, say 100dB, would only require the wall to move a tiny fraction of that amount for the same SPL
Either the wall needs to be extremely stiff and massive eg brick, concrete etc or the driver needs to be decoupled from the wall. Decoupling is extremely difficult to achieve over more than a very narrow frequency range
I think a better plan would be to make boxes for the drivers and cut large holes to allow the boxes to sit it the wall without touching it. The small gap between box and wall can be filled with foam etc but there will be acoustic leakage between rooms
A similar logic is behind the reason different speaker boxes can sound so different, the listener is often hearing the box as much as the driver
It's a also the reason it's desirable to minimise coupling between a speaker box and the floor, ie by using spikes or decoupling pads
I thought about this once. What I came up with is actually making a bulkhead but instead of on the ceiling, it would be along the floor. This could be dry-walled and painted to match the existing wall but have the subs and whatever else inside. This way you'd have plenty of air space for your sub(s) and possibly enough to run a T-Line but it would look like part of the wall so as not to stick out too much. Just by some framework and speaker dust cover material to make a custom speaker cover.