I've been looking for a second amp with the ultimate aim of tri-amping my speakers together with some sort of active cross-over system. I started with an NAD C245BEE amp and found a B&K ST2140 on Craigslist for $150. Unable to find a negative review, I figured it was well worth the risk at that price, and I have been quite happy with it and prefer it over the NAD (at least so far).
So, I have these two amps and upwards of six available channels, but prior to the B&K, I offered someone $350 for two Marantz MA-700 monoblocks. They've now accepted this offer so I'm wondering if there's any gain to having all three.
My thought would be I could use the Marantz to drive the subs (100W each) and play around w/ the other two amps powering the mids and highs. In my current set-up, I like the B&K over the NAD, so I'd rather not have it drive the subs even though it is quite capable (160W). However, the NAD puts out 70W in 2 channel/bridged or 30W across 4-channels so not ideal for driving the sub unless I'm outputting only 2 channels (and in which case I only have 4 channels total output).
What do y'all think? Is this going to provide much of a gain? My inclination is to just keep what I have, save the $350 and keep the gear to a minimum, but I'm also tempted to go for it and play around with the options.
If helpful, my components are here:
Equipment:
Speakers: Usher S-520/SW-520
Power Amp: Currently playing around w/ two but ultimately with bi/tri-amp my speakers - B&K ST2140 and NAD C-245BEE
Pre-Amp: Antique Sound Lab Line one DT
DAC: Cambridge DACMagic
So, I have these two amps and upwards of six available channels, but prior to the B&K, I offered someone $350 for two Marantz MA-700 monoblocks. They've now accepted this offer so I'm wondering if there's any gain to having all three.
My thought would be I could use the Marantz to drive the subs (100W each) and play around w/ the other two amps powering the mids and highs. In my current set-up, I like the B&K over the NAD, so I'd rather not have it drive the subs even though it is quite capable (160W). However, the NAD puts out 70W in 2 channel/bridged or 30W across 4-channels so not ideal for driving the sub unless I'm outputting only 2 channels (and in which case I only have 4 channels total output).
What do y'all think? Is this going to provide much of a gain? My inclination is to just keep what I have, save the $350 and keep the gear to a minimum, but I'm also tempted to go for it and play around with the options.
If helpful, my components are here:
Equipment:
Speakers: Usher S-520/SW-520
Power Amp: Currently playing around w/ two but ultimately with bi/tri-amp my speakers - B&K ST2140 and NAD C-245BEE
Pre-Amp: Antique Sound Lab Line one DT
DAC: Cambridge DACMagic
I get your point, but I have posted a few other times on here and received great advice as a beginner. Perhaps I could rephrase that to say should I keep $350 and put it elsewhere...Once I get a better understanding of home audio, I want to try my hand at some of the projects found on here so the $350 could go to something like that at a later time...
Do you mean tri-amping existing speakers using an active xover or building a suitable design for this implementation from scratch?
The former. I am open to the latter down the road, but I figured this is a good way to learn some of the basics.
With old equipment around, there are failures. While you learn how to repair them, months or years pass. My first solid state one took 10 years, including 8 before internet help was available.
So having a spare is not useless. Both NAD & MacIntosh are conventional, repected, & repairable. New equipment is surface mount and repairable only by elves with microscope eyes & $700 in soldering equipment. Plus any microprocessors are factory supplied only.
Oh, I see, correction, Marantz. They are more flash than noteworthy circuitry IMHO.
I use spare amps for 1 my summer camp 2 playing my keyboard out in venues. You may not have the need.
I don't see the point in tri-amping.
So having a spare is not useless. Both NAD & MacIntosh are conventional, repected, & repairable. New equipment is surface mount and repairable only by elves with microscope eyes & $700 in soldering equipment. Plus any microprocessors are factory supplied only.
Oh, I see, correction, Marantz. They are more flash than noteworthy circuitry IMHO.
I use spare amps for 1 my summer camp 2 playing my keyboard out in venues. You may not have the need.
I don't see the point in tri-amping.
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In that case, I don't think there would be anything to gain, passive xover design used in your existing speakers would have to be emulated accurately if this is to stand any chance of being an improvement and that would mean measuring and analysing the drivers and cabinet parameters
So maybe pass on these but keep an eye out for a backup is what I'll do. That is a good point on the failure aspect and something I tend to overlook.
If necessary, I will try and emulate the current design of my speakers. If there's little to no improvement but no degredation and I haven't spent too much, I'd consider it a success since most of this is a desire to tinker and learn. However, if there are better ways to do that, I'm open to ideas. It's hard to figure out where to start with so much (often conflicting) information.
If necessary, I will try and emulate the current design of my speakers. If there's little to no improvement but no degredation and I haven't spent too much, I'd consider it a success since most of this is a desire to tinker and learn. However, if there are better ways to do that, I'm open to ideas. It's hard to figure out where to start with so much (often conflicting) information.
The best to do, I've found, is that if you want to do things in stages, it helps to maintain as much flexibility as possible since money seems to be the major issue here try to make anything you do adaptable. Don't get me wrong re the speakers, but no degradation is the most unlikely outcome
I'll certainly keep adaptability in mind as I go forward. Right now, I'm happy with my gear since the biggest issues I have for listening enjoyment is the room itself so any changes or tinkering can be easily undone.
We can discuss in a elsewhere since it's off topic, but why will I likely see degradation? Does it matter if each speaker in the cabinet can be independently driven?
We can discuss in a elsewhere since it's off topic, but why will I likely see degradation? Does it matter if each speaker in the cabinet can be independently driven?
That's not the problem, individually driving speakers has many advantages, it's that the existing crossover will include driver/cabinet compensation not just the actual crossover filters.
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