Hi there,
I need some advice on covering the holes that I had drilled on MDF to hold the enclosure box together after gluing, since i did not have any clamps to clamp them.
I want to get a smooth finish on the box and then want to paint it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Tony
I need some advice on covering the holes that I had drilled on MDF to hold the enclosure box together after gluing, since i did not have any clamps to clamp them.
I want to get a smooth finish on the box and then want to paint it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Tony
Just use some wood filler. After it dries sand it smooth with 220 grit or finer sand paper and paint it.
Later BZ
Later BZ
I prefer to use the epoxy type wood fillers where you have to
mix two parts. It dries fast and it's a hard finish that is sandable.
The non-epoxy type fillers may crack over time. /hehe
The hardware store should carry this type of product, Bondo
is one brand that offers this.
mix two parts. It dries fast and it's a hard finish that is sandable.
The non-epoxy type fillers may crack over time. /hehe
The hardware store should carry this type of product, Bondo
is one brand that offers this.
I have tried a couple of different brand wood filler. No matter what the marketing says on its container my experience with them were they all shrink some what, some more, some less.
Just my 2 cents for consideration..
Regards,
Chris
Just my 2 cents for consideration..
Regards,
Chris
Exactly my experience too!
Read more on this here:
http://www.diyvideo.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30638
Ditto here, wood filler don't work so good. I used Bondo last time and next time I may try the epoxy.
I always save some of the mdf sawdust and just mix it with wood glue. Ive been doing this with all types of wood. Just mix dust to glue until its a peanut butter consistancy. you want more dust than glue.
chris
chris
One of the best I have found is to use a combo of the polyester resin (used for fiberglassing) and talc. This is what they use under the fiberglass to fill holes in the plywood before glassing.
Not sure if you'll find better than that.
Cal
Not sure if you'll find better than that.
Cal
Used to make my own out of standard 2-comp epoxy glue and appropriate saw dust to match the wood....
This mix can be sanded, planed, knifed- takes just about any tooling. Slightly overfill the hole and use a finely set and very sharp hand planer to level before sanding...
This mix can be sanded, planed, knifed- takes just about any tooling. Slightly overfill the hole and use a finely set and very sharp hand planer to level before sanding...
Filler under paint
I allways used two part autobody filler. The surfacer type is good as it sands well. If you must use the dent filling type do all your prep work as quickly as possible.
Mark
I allways used two part autobody filler. The surfacer type is good as it sands well. If you must use the dent filling type do all your prep work as quickly as possible.
Mark
Well, since MDF is already basically just glued together wood waste, save some of the sawdust generated by cutting it, mix it with glue and use it for filler. When the glue sets up, sand to suit. With white or yellow wood glue, it'll make an almost unnoticeable patch and won't shrink once the glue dries and it won't easily fall out. The price is right. Makes a great 'gap filler', also🙂
If you have a random orbital sander then I would def. go with bondo. It is the best for smooth finish especially with MDF. If you have to block sand it - well it is a pain since it is so hard. I would use sinkoid(sp) wood filler which will be easier to sand. Just remember to use a long block and get it flat or the small hump you leave behind will telegraph through the paint.
I have never had a problem with wood filler cracking or shrinking, but then I do follow the directions on the can. Mixing is the key.
Later BZ
If it's that bad why do so many wood worker use it?
Later BZ
If it's that bad why do so many wood worker use it?
Not trying to argue 😉 the ones that I used are pre-mixed or ready to use types in a can; may be those ones are not kind to me..
🙁
Chris
🙁
Chris
Iam using water-based wood glue diluted with water in approx. 1:1 ratio and mixed with fine gypsum/plaster.
Dirt cheap, simple and with little effort gives very nice results.
Also very durable, more than 20yrs ago I used that to cover screws and smooth edges on particle board speaker box and still nothing cracked or came off.
Dirt cheap, simple and with little effort gives very nice results.
Also very durable, more than 20yrs ago I used that to cover screws and smooth edges on particle board speaker box and still nothing cracked or came off.
I use car body filler (bondo)
Sometimes they do 'dry out' over time and show through weeks later. Another small skim and paint and it disappears.
If I am building a 'keeper' I would build the box in 18mm and then fill the holes. Then I would glue another 3mm piece on each side to cover the lot.
Rob.
Sometimes they do 'dry out' over time and show through weeks later. Another small skim and paint and it disappears.
If I am building a 'keeper' I would build the box in 18mm and then fill the holes. Then I would glue another 3mm piece on each side to cover the lot.
Rob.
I used " glued and screwed " on my big triangles, I solved the problem of the screws by covering both the speakers with hardboard, this had the benefits of covering the but joints and deadening resonances.