Hi! I am doing my very first veneering job for DIY speakers. Not a good woodworker, but I have managed.
What would be the simplest way to finish veneer without having to use Polyurethane or other top coats that you have to sand many times and/or use multiple coats? I will stain, then probably do light sanding, but what about top coat? What is a friendly top coat to use, maybe glossy, but not necessary.
What would be the simplest way to finish veneer without having to use Polyurethane or other top coats that you have to sand many times and/or use multiple coats? I will stain, then probably do light sanding, but what about top coat? What is a friendly top coat to use, maybe glossy, but not necessary.
Rubbed on oil based products - such as Watco brand, or "Danish" oils are not particularly hard to apply, but take time to dry - and for most lustrous finishes, I've yet to use any type of material that didn't benefit from several coats. Because I'm a lazy bugger, and have access to a full spray booth, I tend towards post catalyzed lacquer / conversion varnish.
What exactly to you mean by "friendly" - the only finish I've every used that had absolutely no VOC or long drying time was a water borne lacquer, and I absolutely hated it.
There are some excellent new generation of flooring finishes that should be easy to apply with foam brushes - but for any of the non solvent based top coats, you'll likely need at least a minimal sanding between coats to ensure good mechanical adhesion on multiple coats.
What exactly to you mean by "friendly" - the only finish I've every used that had absolutely no VOC or long drying time was a water borne lacquer, and I absolutely hated it.
There are some excellent new generation of flooring finishes that should be easy to apply with foam brushes - but for any of the non solvent based top coats, you'll likely need at least a minimal sanding between coats to ensure good mechanical adhesion on multiple coats.
Chrisb, thanks for your input. By friendly I don't mean environmentally friendly, I mean friendly to apply and work with. I did a bookshelf and applied polyurethane, but having to coat, then sand with 120, then sand with 150, then coat again, then same sanding process, then coat a third time, then sand with 120, then 150, and then 220 was too much work. Plus, I'm not taking into consideration that polyurethane takes for ever to totally dry.
Nitrocellulose lacquer is easy...spray on 3 or 4 coats then use polishing compound to buff it to a glasslike finish. I did my guitar that way.
I forgot...but there a few brands .. And the two I used worked well. Actually on the guitar I probably had 10 coats but it has a lot of curved surfaces the nice thing about lacquer is that if it scratches or chips you can paint it on to a small spot and polish it to repair.
Lacquer works best sprayed. If you have a spray gun and experience a good way to go.
For hand applying Waterlox is a great product. The satin can be thinned with mineral spirits and applied with a rag. A bit of rubbing with 0000 steel wool between coats an a final rub with the steel wool and some wax will leave a very nice finish.
Waterlox Tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
For hand applying Waterlox is a great product. The satin can be thinned with mineral spirits and applied with a rag. A bit of rubbing with 0000 steel wool between coats an a final rub with the steel wool and some wax will leave a very nice finish.
Waterlox Tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
If you veneered with contact adhesive be carefully to apply light coats at first. If the solvent for the finish makes it though the veneer it could loosen the glue.
Leaving the wood raw isn't a good idea. At least use a couple of wiped on coats of thin shellac to slow moisture transfer in and out of the veneer.
Thanks for the advise regarding rubbed on oils and nitrocellulose. As it turned out I remembered I had a Quart left of a product called Belle Wood Sealer & Finish Waterbase Varnish (Non-Toxic, Low Odor, Dries Hard, Crystal Clear - No Yellowing), it comes in different wood colors or Clear, the one I have is clear. To get a high gloss finish you don't have to buff or sand, just apply more coats when the previous one is almost dry, and it doesn't alter the wood color. I used this product 12 years ago to coat and protect an Imbuia Wood Front Door, that it's still being used. I applied with a rag two coats 12 yrs. ago, the inside has never been retouched, still looks like new, the outside receives full frontal sun (West) from 1 PM until Sunset, and I reapplied 2 yrs. ago, it lasted close to 10 yrs. Excellent product made here in PR for the Caribbean climate.
1) Circa 1850 paste varnish..
wipe it on wipe it off, drys in 24 hours and the results are nice and consistent..
2) Blonde shellac flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol.. The most beautiful and natural looking finish on the planet.. It's explosive so spray outdoors.. Most of the alcohol evaporates in 15-30 seconds so the piece can be handled quickly and good chance dirt or bugs won't end up in the finish within 30 seconds.. Apply second coat after 2 minutes.. Each consecutive coat dissolves into the previous so the final surface is simply one coat..
some pieces I send out to a pro with a booth, for a beautifully applied lacquer based finish for a very nice, but typical, production look..
"simplest way to finish veneer" ? Circa 1850 is the most simplest way I've ever experienced and it dries hard without residual smell unlike oil and oil needs many many coats.. For simple, Shellac is second..
wipe it on wipe it off, drys in 24 hours and the results are nice and consistent..
2) Blonde shellac flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol.. The most beautiful and natural looking finish on the planet.. It's explosive so spray outdoors.. Most of the alcohol evaporates in 15-30 seconds so the piece can be handled quickly and good chance dirt or bugs won't end up in the finish within 30 seconds.. Apply second coat after 2 minutes.. Each consecutive coat dissolves into the previous so the final surface is simply one coat..
some pieces I send out to a pro with a booth, for a beautifully applied lacquer based finish for a very nice, but typical, production look..
"simplest way to finish veneer" ? Circa 1850 is the most simplest way I've ever experienced and it dries hard without residual smell unlike oil and oil needs many many coats.. For simple, Shellac is second..
French shellac finish? I have a friend who does it out of sheer love of the beauty.
Kudos to your friend if He's doing French polishing.. I did try that sort of technique for a time but my patience ran out.. Requires many coats of shellac, fine abrading the finish between coats.. The final surface is like glass..
Now I do 2 spray coats and done. Looks real good but not same level as French Polishing..
Another wonderful aspect of Shellac is the clear optics. Shellac satin is created by abrading so optics remain transparent.. Satin lacquer is an additive, possibly silica sand or similar so not so optically clear..
French polish is a beautiful way to finish wood. It does look really nice. But it takes skill and patience to achieve the desired finish. I was taught how by a guy I worked with the built $10,000 violins. Nitrocellulose Laqueur is the next best looking finish and much easier technique that I have experience with.
Here are two pics, the first is Belle Wood when wet the second is dry after two coats without sanding. I will lightly sand with 320 Grit, and apply a final coat. The manufacturer recommends light sanding with 220 Grit between coats, then 320 Grit after the second to last coat, and after applying the last coat just to leave as is.
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In my opinion 220 grit is way too coarse hot sanding after applying any kind of finish. I'd usually end with 220 or 400 as pre finishing sanding grits and the go from 400 to 800 to 1000 after finishing. But I'm looking for a glass like finish after nitro liqueur application.
Probably, but it was very light sanding using my hand, just a couple of passes. I am not looking for glass finish, but I will take a piece of wood, veneer it and shine as mentioned to see the final result.
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