Visaton FRS8-8 Enclosure Design Help

Hello,
I have a pair of visaton FRS8 8 ohm, i need a home/enclosure for and I am having problems even getting going on the project as online enclosure calculators i have tried have issues with is specked Qts of 1.04.

All i am looking to make is a pair of small desktop/pc speakers; can someone help me with a bit of a design help please?

Even just the unported volume or ported volume plus dia/length, would be a major help. The rest i think i could figure for myself 🙂

Many thanks in advance imk
 
With a 120 Hz Fs/1+Qts, make the biggest box you can tolerate since it will technically still be way too small if vented, use pegboard or similar for the back plate and stuff it with polyfil or similar to 'taste'. 😉

GM
 
With a 120 Hz Fs/1+Qts, make the biggest box you can tolerate since it will technically still be way too small if vented, use pegboard or similar for the back plate and stuff it with polyfil or similar to 'taste'. 😉

GM

GM
Many thanks for the post it is good starting point.
I was evening thinking of buying a pair of these CUBE 11cm boxes and using the top as the back and screwing it on. So i expect your saying drill a bunch of holes in it, stuff with poly and hope for the best?

CUBE Square plain wooden box with removable lid - choice of sizes (WB20-23) | eBay
 
You're welcome! Well, ideally need at least ~70% of its area open to make it somewhat aperiodic [very leaky vented] to 'bleed off' a bit of its 'Qness', but not so little/much damping that it sounds too 'boomy'/'lean'. Ideally the back would be some window screen tightly stretched over the opening and it needn't be the back for that matter in case you want to put them against a wall.

GM
 
You're welcome! Well, ideally need at least ~70% of its area open to make it somewhat aperiodic [very leaky vented] to 'bleed off' a bit of its 'Qness', but not so little/much damping that it sounds too 'boomy'/'lean'. Ideally the back would be some window screen tightly stretched over the opening and it needn't be the back for that matter in case you want to put them against a wall.

GM

GM,
Then would it make more sense to make a T-line type enclosure for these FRS8's
 
i built the frs8 into a 1,5 liter closed box (try out 1l.......2l), stuffed with polywool (or cotton wool, lambs wool,.........).
experiments: drilling holes into the back of the box
damping material (carpet,...) onto the walls inside
 
I have these playing in Cyburgs Needles quite nicely. As you are looking for computer speakers I'd look into Cyburgs Brick or Folded TABAQ if they're not too big for you.

Attaching the plans for TABAQ. Couldn't find the Brick plans quickly, but they should be findable.
 

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I made a Pair of Spherical speakers out of 4 IKEA Blanda bowls. They are not quite hemispheres so you need a sandwich filling, which is where your ports live, and possibly your speaker mounting. No pics, my picture host has quit.

Cheers Steve
 
You're welcome! Well, ideally need at least ~70% of its area open to make it somewhat aperiodic [very leaky vented] to 'bleed off' a bit of its 'Qness', but not so little/much damping that it sounds too 'boomy'/'lean'. Ideally the back would be some window screen tightly stretched over the opening and it needn't be the back for that matter in case you want to put them against a wall.

GM

Can anyone explain what is meant by the 70% comment? I would like to do an aperiodic build with this driver. Thanks.
 
IMK mentioned just drilling a bunch of holes in a box and I noted that 70% of its area ideally needs to be open, i.e. if the panel was 900 cm^2, then the total area of the holes/whatever type cutout ideally needs to be at least ~ 900 x 0.7 = 630 cm^2.

GM
 
IMK mentioned just drilling a bunch of holes in a box and I noted that 70% of its area ideally needs to be open, i.e. if the panel was 900 cm^2, then the total area of the holes/whatever type cutout ideally needs to be at least ~ 900 x 0.7 = 630 cm^2.

GM


Ok. So you are talking about one entire side of the box being 70% open then (top, back, or a side)? The window screen suggestion is essentially using a material on one side that is roughly 70% open? Thanks.
 
Well, if one side is completely open, then yes and if it's more open, then you can make the cutout smaller. For instance, look at '50s/'60s consoles with pegboard backs; the pegboard isn't all that transparent, but is relatively poorly fitted, so for all intent and purposes acoustically a ~open back.

GM