Dont want to make a double post,
But I was suggested to ask other people for opinion of possibly doing a slot loaded subwoofer or other type of build or in order to “hide” driver from sight.
I want to build a living room subwoofer for tv and movie watching mostly, and some music. But nothing audiophile quality. I have a denon 1600h and the subwoofer will be driven by a behringer nu6000dsp.
Living room is roughly 10x10, opens on the kitchen and hallway which is 20x20.
the plan is to make and hide it as table. I was thinking of making a down firing subwoofer, but in my other thread, people said that dual opposed would be best to cancel out vibration and resonance, that over it would be best, and more out put.
So for now, I’d go for 2 Dayton UM15 in a 2.5ft^3 each.
I have ~ 40in x 20 x 20 roughly avalaible. I can give or take couple inches to accommodate.
I’d like to see what idea people can come up with in order to « hide » the 2 woofer and
I’m an okay wood worker, but I’m very new to the hobby of DIY loudspeaker, so not very good with design software and all the technical terms.
I included a screenshot of the table with 2 15’s in their 2.5ft^3 at each end of the table, and a ‘concept’ of a “slot loaded” type of subwoofer.
Also, I included a REW screen shot reading of actual subwoofer placement: red and green line. And driver placement at each end of the table : orange and blu-ish line.
But I was suggested to ask other people for opinion of possibly doing a slot loaded subwoofer or other type of build or in order to “hide” driver from sight.
I want to build a living room subwoofer for tv and movie watching mostly, and some music. But nothing audiophile quality. I have a denon 1600h and the subwoofer will be driven by a behringer nu6000dsp.
Living room is roughly 10x10, opens on the kitchen and hallway which is 20x20.
the plan is to make and hide it as table. I was thinking of making a down firing subwoofer, but in my other thread, people said that dual opposed would be best to cancel out vibration and resonance, that over it would be best, and more out put.
So for now, I’d go for 2 Dayton UM15 in a 2.5ft^3 each.
I have ~ 40in x 20 x 20 roughly avalaible. I can give or take couple inches to accommodate.
I’d like to see what idea people can come up with in order to « hide » the 2 woofer and
I’m an okay wood worker, but I’m very new to the hobby of DIY loudspeaker, so not very good with design software and all the technical terms.
I included a screenshot of the table with 2 15’s in their 2.5ft^3 at each end of the table, and a ‘concept’ of a “slot loaded” type of subwoofer.
Also, I included a REW screen shot reading of actual subwoofer placement: red and green line. And driver placement at each end of the table : orange and blu-ish line.
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Oh! I don’t mean to pretend who came up with this idea! Haha.
Just want to brainstorm “ways” I.e.: ported, sealed, bandpass, horn, filed horn, slot loaded bandpass. Etc.
It's always about how much space is available that sets your options with most folks stuck with basic vented, sealed, so not much point to 'brainstorm' till size, shape and any other room, SAF, whatever, restrictions 'set in stone' there are.
I thought I read in Speakerbuilder mag, way back when, that if you took a woofer with a bandpass response shape and turned it to face the floor (a bit up on feet of course) its response became flat. The article was on a sub / sat system, where each satellite sat up upon its own sub. The author waxed poetically about how he could feel the rarefactions of recorded tympani with this system.
On the other hand, I remember DAK used to sell a Cerwin-Vega sub setup as a coffee table; it too had the downward firing driver.
Perhaps there's something to that arrangement.
On the other hand, I remember DAK used to sell a Cerwin-Vega sub setup as a coffee table; it too had the downward firing driver.
Perhaps there's something to that arrangement.
Oh well, never had any mags with speaker designs beyond the DIY designs folks gave me out of their '50s, 60s era electronics mags and in some cases are available on-line if one knows the date, issue, etc..
If you intend to use it for a table I think dual-opposed is the only sensible approach, since you will need to cancel vibration as much as possible. I would also make sure you couple the magnets carefully, or at least thoroughly... glue, hardware, something to keep them moving as one.
I think vented or any other alignment is possible. Given the size requirements I think you are looking at a coffee table. However, it's worth noting that 20" is pretty tall for a coffee table and they tend to be closer to 15" tall.
I would start with WinISD to figure out the size(s) of enclosed volume for this.
The amp you're using has plenty of juice... so I think choice of drivers is pretty open. You could even go sealed since you also have DSP, the limiting factor is going to be xmax. There are plenty of long-throw subs including the ones you linked, at a similar price I'd also suggest the CSS SDX12 can do pretty well with a high-power, limited-volume situation.
The idea is to keep the drivers hidden so I think the slot-loaded idea is probably the simplest path forward. You can close the sides of the slot and have it be down-facing, (basically the whole table looks like a box) put the whole table on feet to keep it off the floor, and there you go.
Also, hopefully @planet10 chimes in at some point, I have seen many of his posts on DOS subs here.
I think vented or any other alignment is possible. Given the size requirements I think you are looking at a coffee table. However, it's worth noting that 20" is pretty tall for a coffee table and they tend to be closer to 15" tall.
I would start with WinISD to figure out the size(s) of enclosed volume for this.
The amp you're using has plenty of juice... so I think choice of drivers is pretty open. You could even go sealed since you also have DSP, the limiting factor is going to be xmax. There are plenty of long-throw subs including the ones you linked, at a similar price I'd also suggest the CSS SDX12 can do pretty well with a high-power, limited-volume situation.
The idea is to keep the drivers hidden so I think the slot-loaded idea is probably the simplest path forward. You can close the sides of the slot and have it be down-facing, (basically the whole table looks like a box) put the whole table on feet to keep it off the floor, and there you go.
Also, hopefully @planet10 chimes in at some point, I have seen many of his posts on DOS subs here.
A casual observation on the slot loaded layout: I would likely increase the slot size so the drivers can both be mounted/removed through the slot that faces the bottom. It burns some volume, but makes assembly and finishing easier.
And as suggested above, I wouldn't rule out high excursion 12's (or even 10's if they're good enough). Your room isn't huge, and it doesn't sound like your expectations are extreme. While some people need multiple high excursion 15's to be happy, it's not the norm.
And as suggested above, I wouldn't rule out high excursion 12's (or even 10's if they're good enough). Your room isn't huge, and it doesn't sound like your expectations are extreme. While some people need multiple high excursion 15's to be happy, it's not the norm.
Yes, 2x12" should be enough. Dual opposing will be force cancelling only if they are firmly fixed together. Slot loading actually gives extra spl only in extreme nearfiled, with the expense of more distortion at high spl because of air motion noises.
Two opposing boxes are ok, if you want to use those boxes as the base of the table. How will you clean the slot from dust? Do you have small kids or pets? Where do you hide cables?
A flat downfire box can be mounted below the table cover, sort of hiding and giving more "air" for the feet of the table.
I've had a dual opposing slot loaded bench sub in my study/HT room for many years, 2x15" Dayton DC380. The 2m long cover weighs about 30kg and carries lots of stuff and is not attached with screws, but has just window sealing silicone tape.
Two opposing boxes are ok, if you want to use those boxes as the base of the table. How will you clean the slot from dust? Do you have small kids or pets? Where do you hide cables?
A flat downfire box can be mounted below the table cover, sort of hiding and giving more "air" for the feet of the table.
I've had a dual opposing slot loaded bench sub in my study/HT room for many years, 2x15" Dayton DC380. The 2m long cover weighs about 30kg and carries lots of stuff and is not attached with screws, but has just window sealing silicone tape.
I actually build a coffee table subwoofer a long time ago, but found that the best location for the table was a bad one acoustically. A subwoofer in the middle of the room is not going to work very well. Placement along the wall like Juhazi's shown above would work a whole lot better.
Oh --- my subwoofer was using a single down-firing driver. No problem to get a Martini shaken, not stirred. 🙂
Oh --- my subwoofer was using a single down-firing driver. No problem to get a Martini shaken, not stirred. 🙂
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NHk_VB5l74ctKoKOJa3lTkADW_v7f8S_zpc9YsItUyE/edit?usp=sharing I found simply intermixing with similar color and font as well as same brand makes it pretty straightforward let me know if you need any other help 🙂
Thanks for your answer.
We currently have a 19inch table and the wife is happy with the height, and we often test in the living room while whatching movies or tv shows. Our couch is also 18” high. So table matches the couch, very comfortable to put leg on leg to relax! Haha.
Is was intended to have the table on some feet if down firing. That would get the overall height the same, but the box a little shorter.
Any pointer on how to design/ calculate slot loaded? I wouldn’t mind have the slot on the side. That would make a cool discussion starter haha. But yeah, if you have to be very slick, down firing is the way to go.
I did winisd. With 15 and 18 (Dayton ultimax) sealed vs ported. Cant find the picture on my phone right now. I’ll link it later.
The CSS audio sdx12 is a bit too expensive for a dual driver project for me at the moment. I originally wanted to spend like 600$ cad on drivers. That’s 300$ per driver.
What’s DOS subwoofer?
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Haha! Good reference!
I’ve gone ahead and measure with rew before cominting to something that wouldn’t work.
Here’s my rew reading.
Green line is where the sub usually go, and umik-1 at the MLP.
Red line is the mic at the subwoofer location, and subwoofer at the MLP.
Orange and cyan line are “at each end of the table”
I found that both driver would complet the other in a good way.
The receiver was set to 75db using pink noise with the generator and the spl meter before readings.
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thats a good point and almost had a heart attack thinking how I would get the driver in the model I screenshotted and linked. But I could build the 2 individual boxes, put the driver in the, and then attach it to the top and bottom 40in long pannel.
probably a bit more work when it come to finishing, I concur. but doable.
thanks for your answer.
Great question.
Linked osme picture of my living room in sketch up an fusion with positionning of the table.
table will be 'very near' couch and wall. Like 1 or 2 ft max. I was planning on either, getting the cable under the rug, and poking a little hole in the rug to get the wire out. Or just running it on the rug with some kind of cable hiding tray to hold it still. Its not onlu just go there to sit down and watch tv, not a high pedestrian hallway.
if going slot port, I will dust it using a swiffer or something.
yes, children, 1yo. Thats why, and WAF, I wanna hide the drivers. But if not worth it, Ill go the first box with opposing woofer at the ends with a cloth grill. I just kinda think the slot 'port' looked special and great and without beeing too much 'in your face' would be a good conversation starter and we could even see the woofer moving.
Also, booger welz commented this on my other post:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-a-home-theater-subwoofer.393057/post-7199867
and I love those design. so was curious to see if anything viable could suit my need and situation.
As for the down firing option, by definition, it wouldnt be opposed firing driver?!
Hope it clears things up a bit!
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Thanks for your reply, but I'm scared I dont understand what's this table is for. Care to explain a bit better ? All i see are 1in and 2 in drivers.
Keep in mind that speaker cabinets, sub-woofers in particular don't make good tables if you plan on putting things on them. Cabinet vibration will cause things to slowly move to the lowest point or edge and eventually fall off. Maybe some type mat might help if that was your plan.