I recently bought a cheap Weller pencil iron as a spare: model SP40N 40W which uses ST series tips. A terrible product, the LEDs are the old basic clear ones that provide practically no illumination, the iron is no better than a 10 euro iron from the craft shop, maybe worse. I’m having trouble with the tips (original Weller) and after 10 minutes use I've already trashed two. For the first tip I did what I've been doing for 30 years, wipe the tip clean on a damp sponge between uses. For the 2nd tip I used a brass wool ball thing instead. Both times the tip oxidized and got reduced to rough bare metal after 10 minutes and could no longer be tinned. Beats me I’ve never come across anything like it.
Maybe the iron is a bootleg Weller with crap tips but that’s unlikely. I’m using leaded solder and wondering maybe if the current tips can’t handle leaded solder or maybe it’s the flux used in it, solder is tried and true Kester 44. I’m flummoxed and have one tip left before I throw the whole iron in the trash. I always found Weller super reliable and got plenty of mileage out of their tips in the past using their soldering stations.
Maybe someone here has had a similar problem and can say if Weller's gone to crap, or a faulty batch of tips, or the lead solder?
Maybe the iron is a bootleg Weller with crap tips but that’s unlikely. I’m using leaded solder and wondering maybe if the current tips can’t handle leaded solder or maybe it’s the flux used in it, solder is tried and true Kester 44. I’m flummoxed and have one tip left before I throw the whole iron in the trash. I always found Weller super reliable and got plenty of mileage out of their tips in the past using their soldering stations.
Maybe someone here has had a similar problem and can say if Weller's gone to crap, or a faulty batch of tips, or the lead solder?
Sounds like the iron is running too hot. Is it a 110 unit on 220? Tips over 700F will act like that.
I had same problem with a cheap Weller iron.
Tips lasted 2 days max. It just runs far too hot.
So binned it and went back to my Antex ER30. Tips last forever with it.
Tips lasted 2 days max. It just runs far too hot.
So binned it and went back to my Antex ER30. Tips last forever with it.
Eh? Yikes! It has a Schuko on the tail end, either it was factory miswired or totally mis-designed and running at 700F. Btwn the iron, tips, and shipping that's €50 into the trash can. I need a new station and it sure as heck won't be Weller. I have a 230V-115V 500VA step down I'll try that tomorrow out of curiosity. As I'm not about to carry around a boat anchor to use it looks like the iron will get binned. Welcome to 2022 when humans can't even make a working soldering iron for €32. Ever see the film Idiocracy?
Anyways, thanks for the heads up, kept me from ordering any new tips.
That's what I paid for a good iron..... in 1978.
When you buy cheap crap, you get cheap crap. I run nothing but Weller Stations and the tips, besides being expensive, last a LONG long time. I am still using the same tip after over a year. I routinely run my iron up to 700-836 F (the max) when soldering back planes for my custom amps which have big ground planes. I solder several days a week so they all get a good workout. If the iron is going to be on the stand for more than 5 minutes, I tin the tip and turn the temp down to 300 F (standby). Also, use fresh rolls of solder (yes they have a shelf life) and get the good stuff. 63/37 rosin core Kester. If you have had granpa's 50 year old solder he gave you and you haven't tossed it in the **** can yet, that can be PART of your trouble. I quit using liquid rosin flux and trained myself on No-Clean Flux. The rosin flux takes forever to get your boards cleaned. There is just enough rosin flux in the solder core to assist in making a clean solid shiny joint without making a big old mess.
My Irons/Stations use 80 watt irons. 40 watt is too small.
My buddy had a roll of solder that had acid core in it which is for electricians/plumbers not electronics. That stuff ate a divot in the tips. If your solder doesn't smell like pine trees when you make a joint, THROW IT OUT (or it COULD be no clean core but either way, get the right stuff. Many will use **** equipment/tools and spend big bucks on the project parts which makes ZERO sense. I was trained in the Navy for being a Solder Tech/Board/Connector Repair and they have free info on the net on how to do it correctly. Don't forget to tin your parts before making your connections and wash your hands after handling the lead solder (the silver solder is junk and not approved for repair tech's). The military uses leaded solder for most everything i.e. radios/radar/Comm/Nav/IFF and although they have been slowly getting the new methods, it is still hard to work with unlike the leaded solder. I don't care how GOOD you are, when you compare my amp to one you did with silver solder, you can't tell the difference. Silver solder just won't flow as good and never will.
My Irons/Stations use 80 watt irons. 40 watt is too small.
My buddy had a roll of solder that had acid core in it which is for electricians/plumbers not electronics. That stuff ate a divot in the tips. If your solder doesn't smell like pine trees when you make a joint, THROW IT OUT (or it COULD be no clean core but either way, get the right stuff. Many will use **** equipment/tools and spend big bucks on the project parts which makes ZERO sense. I was trained in the Navy for being a Solder Tech/Board/Connector Repair and they have free info on the net on how to do it correctly. Don't forget to tin your parts before making your connections and wash your hands after handling the lead solder (the silver solder is junk and not approved for repair tech's). The military uses leaded solder for most everything i.e. radios/radar/Comm/Nav/IFF and although they have been slowly getting the new methods, it is still hard to work with unlike the leaded solder. I don't care how GOOD you are, when you compare my amp to one you did with silver solder, you can't tell the difference. Silver solder just won't flow as good and never will.
Weller makes great equipment. Just like Craftsman, you can get the good stuff or the cheap **** if you are CHEAP. My Irons alone run $100 plus, and the tips are nearly $10 each. BUT, they will last you for dozens of years if you take care of your tools. I bought 2 Weller WD1 stations a dozen years ago and still haven't needed to pull the second one out. I can't be without a station so I keep a spare one on hand. Just because your cheap $15 iron is crap, don't mean the whole brand sucks. Up your budget a bit and use something a bit more robust
Using a 115V iron on 230V mains isn't the fault of the mfr. My WTCPL station tip has lasted well over 20 years,
and still looks new.
Last edited:
I'm impressed by the "cheap crap" T12 soldering station I put together using a kit from Banggood. It'll run from a 12V to 24V; 12V from a battery has been adequate when I've worked on stuff outside; indoors I'll use 19V from a Dell laptop power brick.
Banggood doesn't list that kit now, but these are similar:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263745292378
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254588327324
T12 stuff I got from Banggood was branded Suhan, Quicko, and Ksger, which may all be the same company.
There are also T12 irons with the controller in the handle; I got one of those from Banggood at a ridiculously low price (and a long backorder); it appears to work much the same as the station, and is more portable since one less box and cable. Here's one with an OLED display (and much better UI than mine):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294499213317
If anyone cares, a Plano 3500 box is just the right length for this iron with tip installed.
https://planomolding.com/products/prolatch-stowaway-3500-2350000
I went with the Hakko T12 style because the tips have the heater and thermocouple all in one; the soldering stations with separate tips and heaters reportedly have various types of sensor and heaters, so replacement parts can be a crap-shoot. I figured that if the clone tips were junk I could buy real Hakko and get all the critical magic, but so far the tips seem to be just fine.
Flux exposed to the air on circuit boards degrades with age, but I have roll solder (0.5mm 63/37 Kester) from the late 1980s that still works well.
Banggood doesn't list that kit now, but these are similar:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263745292378
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254588327324
T12 stuff I got from Banggood was branded Suhan, Quicko, and Ksger, which may all be the same company.
There are also T12 irons with the controller in the handle; I got one of those from Banggood at a ridiculously low price (and a long backorder); it appears to work much the same as the station, and is more portable since one less box and cable. Here's one with an OLED display (and much better UI than mine):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294499213317
If anyone cares, a Plano 3500 box is just the right length for this iron with tip installed.
https://planomolding.com/products/prolatch-stowaway-3500-2350000
I went with the Hakko T12 style because the tips have the heater and thermocouple all in one; the soldering stations with separate tips and heaters reportedly have various types of sensor and heaters, so replacement parts can be a crap-shoot. I figured that if the clone tips were junk I could buy real Hakko and get all the critical magic, but so far the tips seem to be just fine.
Flux exposed to the air on circuit boards degrades with age, but I have roll solder (0.5mm 63/37 Kester) from the late 1980s that still works well.
Any solder will wet well, the primary issue is the flux. It has to be the correct temperature range for the solder. Also, fluxes sometimes have to be chosen for the metal you are trying to attach to, nickel for example.
I bought a Hakko 601-02, 65 watt (100 USD) with simple dial temp control on the handle. I use major t(5mm wide) flat tips in it for stained glass work but could easily see putting much smaller tips in for electronics work as well. Also using the Hakko 633-01 holder with the brass sponge as well (26 USD).
One tip I always mention is, don't wipe off the tip when returning it to the holder, only wipe it just before using it on the work. That way it remains coated with solder all the time it's in the holder.
John
I bought a Hakko 601-02, 65 watt (100 USD) with simple dial temp control on the handle. I use major t(5mm wide) flat tips in it for stained glass work but could easily see putting much smaller tips in for electronics work as well. Also using the Hakko 633-01 holder with the brass sponge as well (26 USD).
One tip I always mention is, don't wipe off the tip when returning it to the holder, only wipe it just before using it on the work. That way it remains coated with solder all the time it's in the holder.
John
My 6 year old home shop Weller WTCP is still going strong with 6+ year old tips, all 600F 700F and 800F tips.
The WTCP that I used at the shop lasted me decades too.
For a long time, factories and repair shops used the WTCP's - they last, production must go on, reliability is a must.
I bought a cheap weller 100w iron once. It had the illumination LED in the center so you could verify it was on.
I bought it to solder wires to chassis when needed. Like most of y'all once it reaches temperature, we just
leave it on, on the bench in its holder. I left to grab a bite to eat. When I returned it had melted in 1/2.
I was lucky the house didn't burn down. I contacted Weller about this and they sent me a real iron
their W100P. Haven't had any issues with this iron at all. I also have their WPS3000 rework station.
No issues with that. Also have a 2 Hakko's 936 and 936D, no issues with them either.
Cheers
I bought it to solder wires to chassis when needed. Like most of y'all once it reaches temperature, we just
leave it on, on the bench in its holder. I left to grab a bite to eat. When I returned it had melted in 1/2.
I was lucky the house didn't burn down. I contacted Weller about this and they sent me a real iron
their W100P. Haven't had any issues with this iron at all. I also have their WPS3000 rework station.
No issues with that. Also have a 2 Hakko's 936 and 936D, no issues with them either.
Cheers
First thing is...... NEVER leave an iron ON and walk away for lunch.
I class that was using Common Sense, and not being lazy, and insuring Safety.
It isn't that much trouble to re-heat an iron to useable temperature.
Don't cheap out on soldering stations, it's just not worth it.
I've been using a Weller 700F closed loop iron for my entire career, and it's great.
Amortized cost around $0.01 per day. You would not believe the heat capacity.
And yet it works well for small connections, which is most of what I do.
Only a couple of times have I needed a larger iron, and it took this one:
I've been using a Weller 700F closed loop iron for my entire career, and it's great.
Amortized cost around $0.01 per day. You would not believe the heat capacity.
And yet it works well for small connections, which is most of what I do.
Only a couple of times have I needed a larger iron, and it took this one:
Attachments
Last edited:
This type of soldering iron has no temperature control .. so you must control it yourself .. a dimmer or a variac will do the job ... or simply unplug when it is not use or too hot ...
I learned that more than 60 ears ago .... my father told me ..... I was youg at the time.
I learned that more than 60 ears ago .... my father told me ..... I was youg at the time.
A Variac cannot perform like a closed loop station, which works autonomously to keep the tip
temperature accurately at the design value.
temperature accurately at the design value.
