Currently what I have is what came with my meters, as well as a set of these: Banana to Mini Grabber Test Leads 39"
I have a set of Harbor Fright alligator clip leads that I connect to the tip when I need a clip-on measurement.
I'm looking at various options (at various price-points) from Mouser and McMaster-Carr. I wanted to ask what you all use, what quality level/price point, etc.?
I have a set of Harbor Fright alligator clip leads that I connect to the tip when I need a clip-on measurement.
I'm looking at various options (at various price-points) from Mouser and McMaster-Carr. I wanted to ask what you all use, what quality level/price point, etc.?
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2306832.pdf
Known brand and all rated 1000V through to 300V for the mini grabbers and banana plugs. May cost more but they're likely to last longer..
What I don't like in the parts express link is that it doesn't say what the tested insulation is.
Known brand and all rated 1000V through to 300V for the mini grabbers and banana plugs. May cost more but they're likely to last longer..
What I don't like in the parts express link is that it doesn't say what the tested insulation is.
Hi,
some of the best probes come from Probemaster.
See the 8000 series. The Master Kit contains probabely most of what you´ll need.
jauu
Calvin
some of the best probes come from Probemaster.
See the 8000 series. The Master Kit contains probabely most of what you´ll need.
jauu
Calvin
Yes, Probemaster are highly recommended. The needle spring tipped Pomonas are nice too but they tend to break or go high Z at the connections
Currently what I have is what came with my meters, as well as a set of these: Banana to Mini Grabber Test Leads 39"
I prefer to make my own; that way I'm certain that the wire is properly soldered to the connectors and not just laid-in contact.
I bought some new Pomona mini-grabbers last year, and the spring force was much less than older versions. Yuk.
I prefer to make my own; that way I'm certain that the wire is properly soldered to the connectors and not just laid-in contact.
I bought some new Pomona mini-grabbers last year, and the spring force was much less than older versions. Yuk.
What would you suggest for terminals (grabbers, clips, etc)?
I dunno what to suggest, I ended up finding a stash of older wires with Pomona grabbers on both ends and converted them. Perhaps someone else can weigh in.
I tend to just clip on croc clips.
For important signals when I design my pcb I add terminal pin points to easy clip to.
Also, for safety high voltage stuff has an LED/resistor indicator for safety.
especially on valve amps.
For important signals when I design my pcb I add terminal pin points to easy clip to.
Also, for safety high voltage stuff has an LED/resistor indicator for safety.
especially on valve amps.
MX here used to sell kits, with threaded connectors on both sides, you got two sets of normal probes, crocodile clips, lugs and something else I don't remember..
Got it years back.
Other set is one with wires you can solder, and a piggyback system, I can connect another set of probes to the back of the ones in circuit, useful if two meters are in use.
If you are into low voltage / mains, just get ordinary thick wire probes you can repair by soldering, as that is the place wires fail, by flexing, thick wire lasts longer.
Those probes are about 60 cents here.
Or buy a bunch from surplus mil grade...those should be good, only the meter socket must match.
For high voltages, be very fussy.
Got it years back.
Other set is one with wires you can solder, and a piggyback system, I can connect another set of probes to the back of the ones in circuit, useful if two meters are in use.
If you are into low voltage / mains, just get ordinary thick wire probes you can repair by soldering, as that is the place wires fail, by flexing, thick wire lasts longer.
Those probes are about 60 cents here.
Or buy a bunch from surplus mil grade...those should be good, only the meter socket must match.
For high voltages, be very fussy.
Fluke are my lead of choice too. 
A bit cheaper and simpler though:
https://www.fluke.com/en-au/product/accessories/test-leads/fluke-tl71
With:
Fluke AC175: Threaded Insulated Alligator Clips Set | Fluke

A bit cheaper and simpler though:
https://www.fluke.com/en-au/product/accessories/test-leads/fluke-tl71
With:
Fluke AC175: Threaded Insulated Alligator Clips Set | Fluke
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Fluke or Probemaster work fine. The price you pay is for good materials (longevity and safety) and accuracy (precision and repeatability) in readings and you get what you pay for.
I was given a pair of leads and a cheap DMM by a friend's father as a thank you gift for repairing their old Sansui amp (electrolytic capacitor replacements) as he wasn't doing electronics anymore. I got home, tested the leads for the sake of testing them, and got a reading of about 1.5 Ohms touching them together. That would have added inaccuracies in my measurements either sorting components or looking for problems and probably would have been even more inaccurate measuring current as they heated up (this could be an issue in the Passdiy stuff and maybe not so much the tube stuff).
Not worth it. I tossed the leads and kept the DMM for sacrificial testing around the house and car.
I was given a pair of leads and a cheap DMM by a friend's father as a thank you gift for repairing their old Sansui amp (electrolytic capacitor replacements) as he wasn't doing electronics anymore. I got home, tested the leads for the sake of testing them, and got a reading of about 1.5 Ohms touching them together. That would have added inaccuracies in my measurements either sorting components or looking for problems and probably would have been even more inaccurate measuring current as they heated up (this could be an issue in the Passdiy stuff and maybe not so much the tube stuff).
Not worth it. I tossed the leads and kept the DMM for sacrificial testing around the house and car.
The key requirement for leads I have is they can handle being used on the 10A current setting, and many probes have thin wires - even those Fluke one's have a blank datasheet (!) so how do you know they are any good for high current?
I have made my own in fact using generous gauge high flexibility silicone insulated wire and small croc clips (sold for RC models) - you know its happy with 10A+ then...
I have made my own in fact using generous gauge high flexibility silicone insulated wire and small croc clips (sold for RC models) - you know its happy with 10A+ then...
You know they’re good for 10A because they’re sold with their meters, which have a 10A range and are respected meters. They’re also good for 1000V.
If you’re only working with extra low voltage (60V or less) often banana leads are a better choice than test leads. Pomona do especially good ones. They also do good quality alligator clips that go on the end of a banana lead.
Stacking Banana Plug Patch Cord, Gold-Plated | Pomona Electronics
Alligator Clip With Banana Jack | Pomona Electronics
If you’re only working with extra low voltage (60V or less) often banana leads are a better choice than test leads. Pomona do especially good ones. They also do good quality alligator clips that go on the end of a banana lead.
Stacking Banana Plug Patch Cord, Gold-Plated | Pomona Electronics
Alligator Clip With Banana Jack | Pomona Electronics
I like that those alligator clips fit on a banana plug... Are there other swappable tips that go on a banana too? Would be nice to have options.
Not the cheapest, but the test leads by Pomona are excellent. Mouser carries Pomona.
I use the 5519A all the time. Their 3782 Minigrabber test leads are excellent as well.
Pomona Electronics | Performance and Dependability
Tom
I use the 5519A all the time. Their 3782 Minigrabber test leads are excellent as well.
Pomona Electronics | Performance and Dependability
Tom
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