Just rebuilding a few amps for the very 1st time of trying it. Had to change a few transistors etc etc... I've cleaned off all the old thermal paste which was in a bad condition, question is, can I use something like Artic Silver 5 as the replacement? The amps are 1 stereo integrated and 2 5.1 Pioneer vsa amps.
I don't see why not. The trick to good thermal transfer is contact area and even pressure. Contact area is maximised by getting the surfaces as flat and smooth as possible, I've used cutting paste and even polished the surfaces. It's then easier to use as little thermal compound as you can
The best thermal paste is.... none. They make a mess and provide inconsistent results.
Use thermal pads.
To answer your question: Arctic Silver or other PC Pastes would work similarly to other pastes.
Scott’s responses are correct and will optimize your results if using paste.
Use thermal pads.
To answer your question: Arctic Silver or other PC Pastes would work similarly to other pastes.
Scott’s responses are correct and will optimize your results if using paste.
Artic Silver 5 is very good, I use it for computer cpus and electronic components.
And a great thing: " Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
And a great thing: " Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
There are 2 types of thermal paste, ceramic and metalic.
Bouth are good but metalic one's are electrical conductive (like arctic silver) so take care when you use.
Thermal pads are easier to use but do not conduct s-o well thermal flux like the paste type.
Bouth are good but metalic one's are electrical conductive (like arctic silver) so take care when you use.
Thermal pads are easier to use but do not conduct s-o well thermal flux like the paste type.
sesebe, Céramique™ 2 and Arctic Alumina™ are Electrical Insulator, while Artic Silver 5(the one I like ) is just "Not Electrically Conductive".
Only an appropriate commercial pad can be used to insulate between part and heatsink (as per a mica washer/insulator) - any paste or grease should not be relied on to act as a functional electrical insulator.
As Scott indicates, the best application is when the surfaces are smooth and flat (typically provided by commercial parts and heatsinks), and when as smooth an application of paste/grease is used with as thin a smear as practical (smothering the area with paste is not good - thicker is not better!).
Beware of any old paste you may have that is not marked - really old paste may contain beryllium.
If you don't have appropriate paste, then a very light smear of Vaseline will alleviate long-term chance of corrosion or pitting between device and heatsink, and is not a bad alternative when the surfaces are flat and there is sufficient clamping/compression.
As Scott indicates, the best application is when the surfaces are smooth and flat (typically provided by commercial parts and heatsinks), and when as smooth an application of paste/grease is used with as thin a smear as practical (smothering the area with paste is not good - thicker is not better!).
Beware of any old paste you may have that is not marked - really old paste may contain beryllium.
If you don't have appropriate paste, then a very light smear of Vaseline will alleviate long-term chance of corrosion or pitting between device and heatsink, and is not a bad alternative when the surfaces are flat and there is sufficient clamping/compression.
Last edited:
Use regular thermal paste like *everybody else* does, specially the Professionals, and leave Arctic Silver and similar metallic particle loaded types to Gamers and Overclockers.
Besides, Arctic Silver states in its own page:
Side note: mica + paste *still* conducts heat better than any synthetic pad.
Besides, and again from their own page:
Besides, Arctic Silver states in its own page:
Enough said.
Side note: mica + paste *still* conducts heat better than any synthetic pad.
Besides, and again from their own page:
Do you *really* want to deal with such a quirky and properties changing material in your builds?
Last edited:
"Use regular thermal paste like *everybody else* does, specially the Professionals". Ok? and which one is that?
"Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads." , well , of course , the electrical traces, pins, and leads should be clean regardless what type of paste you use.
The amount of thermal paste used should be very small, a very thin layer should be applied, when you attach the component to the heatsink you should have just a little bit of paste coming out , if any....
"Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads." , well , of course , the electrical traces, pins, and leads should be clean regardless what type of paste you use.
The amount of thermal paste used should be very small, a very thin layer should be applied, when you attach the component to the heatsink you should have just a little bit of paste coming out , if any....
Wakefield 120 is great stuff. As is Wakefield 126. The difference between the two is that the '126' is less soluble, hence, better suited for automated assembly where the boards are washed at the end to clean off any residual flux.
Both are available at Mouser.
Tom
Both are available at Mouser.
Tom
the generic white thermal paste you could buy at your electronic diy store. Sometimes it is labelled with a house brand, sometimes you have never heard of the brand...😉
At work I used Keratherm, which is expensive pro stuff. However due to its high viscosity it is a real PITA to work with. So I won't recommend it to anyone!
Last edited:
If you use a computer HSF compound, make sure it's stable. My compound is stable for 2 years only, at which case you should reapply it.
+1 to the recommendation for Wakefield. I took Tom’s advice about 3 years ago on this and have no regrets. The 120 isn’t too bad the clean up and a $10, 2oz, jar has lasted me this long.
I was looking around at pastes and was going to try one of the synthetics
that was really heat resistant etc.
Then I came across it's SDS and holy cow. Glad I didn't buy the stuff.
You aren't even supposed to use the stuff in a home/hobbyist type environment
and they had special warnings about it's use around FOOD/Drink prohibited
and requirements for decontaminating washes and rinses for it also.
It was a while ago I looked at it, if I recall it might have been some type of
Boron/Nitride compound or other mix etc.
Cheers,
that was really heat resistant etc.
Then I came across it's SDS and holy cow. Glad I didn't buy the stuff.
You aren't even supposed to use the stuff in a home/hobbyist type environment
and they had special warnings about it's use around FOOD/Drink prohibited
and requirements for decontaminating washes and rinses for it also.
It was a while ago I looked at it, if I recall it might have been some type of
Boron/Nitride compound or other mix etc.
Cheers,
Boron Nitride is completely safe when it's not in powdered form, and it's an excellent thermal filler. Its thermal conductivity is really high in sintered sheets - about 2/3 the thermal conductivity of copper. It is an extremely linear dielectric, and the compound is extremely stable - triple bonds between the boron and nitrogen. It was used in cosmetics for quite a while, since the hexagonal flat plate form is very slippery and somewhat opaque. It makes a nice foundation when mixed with some grease 🙂
The cubic form is used as an industrial abrasive, and it too is completely safe when the particle size is not too small. It also has the benefit of isotropic thermal conductivity, making it a better thermal loading compound, since its high thermal conductivity is in all directions, not just along the flat plane of the hexagonal form.
So, don't be frightened of BN when used in a paste - it's completely safe if you're not sloppy.
That said, I'm using it in powdered form with wax to make a thermal filler for prototypes, and I have to be careful to mix the stuff up with good ventilation to the outside. Still, it works really well, and is probably not much more or less of a risk than using talcum powder - probably less if you're careful and use effective ventilation.
The cubic form is used as an industrial abrasive, and it too is completely safe when the particle size is not too small. It also has the benefit of isotropic thermal conductivity, making it a better thermal loading compound, since its high thermal conductivity is in all directions, not just along the flat plane of the hexagonal form.
So, don't be frightened of BN when used in a paste - it's completely safe if you're not sloppy.
That said, I'm using it in powdered form with wax to make a thermal filler for prototypes, and I have to be careful to mix the stuff up with good ventilation to the outside. Still, it works really well, and is probably not much more or less of a risk than using talcum powder - probably less if you're careful and use effective ventilation.
Last edited:
Hi Monte,
Then maybe it was another compound or hyped up SDS.
It was a while ago. In any event, thanks for the clarification.
Cheers,
Then maybe it was another compound or hyped up SDS.
It was a while ago. In any event, thanks for the clarification.
Cheers,
SDS documents can look pretty creepy, but still, they are an honest source of information, and ought to be heeded.
My "core dump" on boron nitride is just because I've been working with it for a bit, and find that it's a nice substance if you handle it properly. You can buy small crystal BN powder that is indeed a serious inhalation hazard, but when it's mixed into a paste, the inhalation hazard disappears. So, yes, don't buy small crystal powders like this and you'll be safe!
Back to the topic, if you use any sort of thermal paste, you need to not eat it or get it under your fingernails, just as a basic principle. Get a cheap box of nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight, put a pair on, apply the thermal paste, then dispose of the gloves and wash your hands. I'm allergic to many substances, but I find that nitrile gloves let me handle lots of random dust filled and chemical laden objects without any problems. They're cheap insurance for lots of nuisances.
My "core dump" on boron nitride is just because I've been working with it for a bit, and find that it's a nice substance if you handle it properly. You can buy small crystal BN powder that is indeed a serious inhalation hazard, but when it's mixed into a paste, the inhalation hazard disappears. So, yes, don't buy small crystal powders like this and you'll be safe!
Back to the topic, if you use any sort of thermal paste, you need to not eat it or get it under your fingernails, just as a basic principle. Get a cheap box of nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight, put a pair on, apply the thermal paste, then dispose of the gloves and wash your hands. I'm allergic to many substances, but I find that nitrile gloves let me handle lots of random dust filled and chemical laden objects without any problems. They're cheap insurance for lots of nuisances.
I use DC340 exclusively as well. If one finds that it is too viscous, it can be cut with the Dow Corning dielectric grease (I can't remember the number of hand, but can update when I'm in the shop next if people are curious).
If you decide to get the Dow Corning thermal compound, but it from someone reputable. There is a lot of Amazon and eBay that is sold in a small jar, I'm pretty sure it's counterfeit. I worked for Dow Corning for more than 20 years. We never packages it in jars except for quality control samples. It is supposed to come in tubes as shown in the pictures above.
Good luck,
Jason
I said this several times in this forum, but Arctic Silver is not perfectly nonconductive. I have had a problem with it, and since then, I use Arctic Alumina, which should be non conductive. I don''t know if it's superior to the other offers, but it is actually an economical solution for small amount DIY usage.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.