So has anyone got an idea where i can get some caps from, i am after some cheap 12000uf 80v 80deg?
I am a bit wary of buying from China direct due to possible copies, although i dare say the copies are probably to spec.
I currently have a Nad T763 disassembled, and have found 1 of the 4 12000uf caps bulging, i started looking at this amp as it has a slight hum on left channel on start up, which goes away as it warms up.
Anyone know/think this is the culprit?
Cheers
PaulB
p.s. i also found two 2k 2watt resistors that had burnt off or lost there outer coating, they ,measure ok though, i have some replacements but closest i could get was 2.2k 3watt.
Thought the extra wattage might help if they are getting hot, and thought resistance difference probably wouldnt be a prob, but....
I am a bit wary of buying from China direct due to possible copies, although i dare say the copies are probably to spec.
I currently have a Nad T763 disassembled, and have found 1 of the 4 12000uf caps bulging, i started looking at this amp as it has a slight hum on left channel on start up, which goes away as it warms up.
Anyone know/think this is the culprit?
Cheers
PaulB
p.s. i also found two 2k 2watt resistors that had burnt off or lost there outer coating, they ,measure ok though, i have some replacements but closest i could get was 2.2k 3watt.
Thought the extra wattage might help if they are getting hot, and thought resistance difference probably wouldnt be a prob, but....
Might be worth an email or call to Steve at ApexJr to see what he currently has. I know you're in the UK and he's in California, but his prices w shipping might still be a good option....
A quick check at Mouser and I find 12,000uf (listed as 0.012F) 80v. They have three types in stock at about $10 each. Two are Panasonic and the other United Chemicon. Mouser may not be the best choice for you in the UK, but they appear to be commodity parts, nothign odd, so I would suspect suppliers in the UK would have the same.
Mouser stock:
667-ECE-T1KP123FA
667-ECE-T1KP123EA
661-ESMH800VNN123MA6
Mouser stock:
667-ECE-T1KP123FA
667-ECE-T1KP123EA
661-ESMH800VNN123MA6
Mouser has a warehouse in Scandenavia I believe. BTW, the Panasonic snap ins I have bought lately (two orders 4700 @ 100 & 2200 @ 200) come marked with an M in a square and are made in USA.
solen of Canada tends to have the best prices on 'middle of the road' PS supply caps, in the 50-100v range, about 3300-22,000uf ranges. All snap mount. UCC and Elna caps.
Shipping to the UK from Canada is quick and inexpensive. This is due to Canada still being in a free trade state with the UK, us canucks being a bunch of frickkin' provincials and all that....
example:
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...x.php?catalog=3&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&s1=2&s2=3
80v 10,00uf UCC SMH type, snap mount, $5.51 cdn each, or £3.28 each. Shipping is quite cheap.
Shipping to the UK from Canada is quick and inexpensive. This is due to Canada still being in a free trade state with the UK, us canucks being a bunch of frickkin' provincials and all that....
example:
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...x.php?catalog=3&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&s1=2&s2=3
80v 10,00uf UCC SMH type, snap mount, $5.51 cdn each, or £3.28 each. Shipping is quite cheap.
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I've always assumed that was an homage to their former parent company, Matsushita. (here is an example Panasonic capacitor datasheet) showing the M logo.
Thanks for the replies chaps, been a bit of a delay replying as i seemed to get locked out of my account.
Interestingly after disassembling the amp and giving it a good solder, i discovered the main cause of the problem and in true scientist eureka fashion it was a bit by accident.
For some reason the small sub board on the back of the amp for the toslink and coaxial digital inputs, was/is causing the hum.
I noticed initially that i was having problems not getting any sound from my tv via the toslink cable when i plugged it in or it was intermittently working.
For some reason i tried disconnecting this sub board as it attaches via 2 long leads going right from the back to the front panel.
Lifted the leads off and hey presto! hum dissapears.
So now i have a amp with no hum but also no digi input
i can live with that as the amp sounds great and I'm not to worried about the toslink.
Plus i have a small D/A convertor so can feed TV etc in via a regular phono input, might also look into that board at some point when I'm bored.
Interestingly after disassembling the amp and giving it a good solder, i discovered the main cause of the problem and in true scientist eureka fashion it was a bit by accident.
For some reason the small sub board on the back of the amp for the toslink and coaxial digital inputs, was/is causing the hum.
I noticed initially that i was having problems not getting any sound from my tv via the toslink cable when i plugged it in or it was intermittently working.
For some reason i tried disconnecting this sub board as it attaches via 2 long leads going right from the back to the front panel.
Lifted the leads off and hey presto! hum dissapears.
So now i have a amp with no hum but also no digi input
i can live with that as the amp sounds great and I'm not to worried about the toslink.Plus i have a small D/A convertor so can feed TV etc in via a regular phono input, might also look into that board at some point when I'm bored.
Ha, ha! When your bored... I've lost count of my projects, " When I'm bored"...Glad your up and running....
They certainly don't need to be 12 mF. 10 mF will do the job properly.
Did you make at least voltage measurements? Are 80 V lytics required?
I'd bet there's sufficient choice at Farnell, RS and others.
Did you make at least voltage measurements? Are 80 V lytics required?
I'd bet there's sufficient choice at Farnell, RS and others.
Thus far I haven't measured the voltage on the caps, as with this amps layout/design its very difficult to get access to this module with the amp on.
Unfortunately the base of the amp does not come off giving easy access for measurements and maintenance.
I really wanted to replace with equal capacity and quality or better but thought the same as you that 10000uf would prob be ok and quite possibly a lower voltage.
I might have a look at the schematics to see if there is a clue to what sort of voltage is running.
4 12000uf caps at 80v seems quite a hefty arrangement so maybe a bit of overcapacity,i see some nichichon caps on ebay at 12000uf 71v, price is good but they are from china
1 x NEW Nichicon 12000uF 71V 35mm x 58mm Gold Audio capacitor AR | eBay
But as amp is working at the mo i wont worry for a bit.
Ta for the reply.
Unfortunately the base of the amp does not come off giving easy access for measurements and maintenance.
I really wanted to replace with equal capacity and quality or better but thought the same as you that 10000uf would prob be ok and quite possibly a lower voltage.
I might have a look at the schematics to see if there is a clue to what sort of voltage is running.
4 12000uf caps at 80v seems quite a hefty arrangement so maybe a bit of overcapacity,i see some nichichon caps on ebay at 12000uf 71v, price is good but they are from china
1 x NEW Nichicon 12000uF 71V 35mm x 58mm Gold Audio capacitor AR | eBay
But as amp is working at the mo i wont worry for a bit.
Ta for the reply.
10 mF is a much more common value. Both 63 V and 100 V are more common than 80 V
too, making the task way easier.
I cannot open the link, but beware of some Chinese sellers, they offer fakes quite often.
If physical size is fine and voltage is above, say 55/60 V, I'd consider to go for a good
quality 10 mf/100 V cap from a reliable manzfacturer like Vishay-BC, BHC, F&T, Epcos,
Elna, Panasonic, Krummer, Kendeil and Nichicon. Just do a Google search. You'll find lots
on Farnell, RS-components and others for approx. 8 Pounds/10 €/piece.
too, making the task way easier.
I cannot open the link, but beware of some Chinese sellers, they offer fakes quite often.
If physical size is fine and voltage is above, say 55/60 V, I'd consider to go for a good
quality 10 mf/100 V cap from a reliable manzfacturer like Vishay-BC, BHC, F&T, Epcos,
Elna, Panasonic, Krummer, Kendeil and Nichicon. Just do a Google search. You'll find lots
on Farnell, RS-components and others for approx. 8 Pounds/10 €/piece.
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