Forgive me if this has been done already. I am shopping around for a safe, non-harmful product to clean pots on 70s hifi. I was about to shell out for deoxit d5 when I saw various sites saying servisol super 10 is absolutely fine and considerably cheaper. Both claim to be safe on plastics. Obviously I will try to apply as accurately and locally as possible.
But then there is the problem of lubrication. Both claim to clean AND lubricate. Various sites concur with this, and imply that these solutions do not damage the pot's own non-metallic tracking parts. But some sites warn that servisol 10 is for switches NOT pots because it does not lubricate and may leave pots stiff and scratchy. And then there are the people who've been using servisol 10 on pots for decades and swear by it. Deoxit D5 is phenomenally expensive, is it really worth it?
Any advice greatly appreciated!
But then there is the problem of lubrication. Both claim to clean AND lubricate. Various sites concur with this, and imply that these solutions do not damage the pot's own non-metallic tracking parts. But some sites warn that servisol 10 is for switches NOT pots because it does not lubricate and may leave pots stiff and scratchy. And then there are the people who've been using servisol 10 on pots for decades and swear by it. Deoxit D5 is phenomenally expensive, is it really worth it?
Any advice greatly appreciated!
I use EML Contact Cleaner and Lubricant by Electrolube plus EMP make a grease.
Very efficient and not expensive.
EML200F | Electrolube EML 200 ml Contact Cleaner Aerosol | RS Components
Very efficient and not expensive.
EML200F | Electrolube EML 200 ml Contact Cleaner Aerosol | RS Components
Caig DeoxIT is the best, and only a very small spray or two is needed.
It lasts for a long time, too. DeoxIT(R) D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator
404B-140G MG Chemicals | Mouser
MG Chemicals "Electronics Contact Cleaner with Silicone" in adjustable spray can for $9 is what I use for switches, pots, sliders, etc. "Safe on plastics and elastomers"
MG Chemicals "Electronics Contact Cleaner with Silicone" in adjustable spray can for $9 is what I use for switches, pots, sliders, etc. "Safe on plastics and elastomers"
LPS1 works a treat on carbon track potentiometers as well as switches and connectors.
Unlike alcohol based cleaners that leave no residue (and thus allow the control to become scratchy again over a relatively short time) it leaves behind a thin, dry dust replant liquid film that clings to the carbon track using surface tension to protect it from the atmosphere. This prevents it re-oxidising again, and in operation the contact point of the wiper remains submerged below the film.
The film has both extremely high impedance (hundreds of megohms) and extremely high voltage rating, so does not pose any sort of conductivity problem and can be used in high voltage circuitry as well as low voltage like a volume control. Due to being such a good insulator it helps prevent micro-arcing on the track when the control is turned, especially on a control with DC. (think of transformer oil in a transformer providing better than air insulation)
It's also a greaseless lubricant so potentiometers invariably feel smoother and easier to turn afterwards, and stay that way for a long time. The lubricating properties also help prevent the carbon track physically wearing away with use due to friction against the wiper contact.
My Dad used it for decades as an electronics technician/serviceman and swore by it.
The more traditional alcohol based cleaners do work but the results are sometimes quite short lived - on a 30 year old scratchy volume control alcohol cleaning will last maybe 2-3 months before the control is playing up again while one application of LPS1 can last for many years and even work well for controls that are well worn and don't respond well to conventional cleaners.
The only disadvantage it has really is that it has a distinctive smell, so if you miss the opening of the wiper track and spray it all over the place it will smell a bit, especially on something hot! If you wipe up the excess the smell does go away after a day or two though.
I also routinely used it in edge connectors such as PC ISA/PCI slots, DIMM sockets etc, anywhere where dust and oxidation can cause intermittent connections.
Unlike alcohol based cleaners that leave no residue (and thus allow the control to become scratchy again over a relatively short time) it leaves behind a thin, dry dust replant liquid film that clings to the carbon track using surface tension to protect it from the atmosphere. This prevents it re-oxidising again, and in operation the contact point of the wiper remains submerged below the film.
The film has both extremely high impedance (hundreds of megohms) and extremely high voltage rating, so does not pose any sort of conductivity problem and can be used in high voltage circuitry as well as low voltage like a volume control. Due to being such a good insulator it helps prevent micro-arcing on the track when the control is turned, especially on a control with DC. (think of transformer oil in a transformer providing better than air insulation)
It's also a greaseless lubricant so potentiometers invariably feel smoother and easier to turn afterwards, and stay that way for a long time. The lubricating properties also help prevent the carbon track physically wearing away with use due to friction against the wiper contact.
My Dad used it for decades as an electronics technician/serviceman and swore by it.
The more traditional alcohol based cleaners do work but the results are sometimes quite short lived - on a 30 year old scratchy volume control alcohol cleaning will last maybe 2-3 months before the control is playing up again while one application of LPS1 can last for many years and even work well for controls that are well worn and don't respond well to conventional cleaners.
The only disadvantage it has really is that it has a distinctive smell, so if you miss the opening of the wiper track and spray it all over the place it will smell a bit, especially on something hot! If you wipe up the excess the smell does go away after a day or two though.
I also routinely used it in edge connectors such as PC ISA/PCI slots, DIMM sockets etc, anywhere where dust and oxidation can cause intermittent connections.
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Wow thank you everyone! LPS1 sounds like a good bet, do I need a cleaner as well or will LPS1 do everything?
You could use a no-residue alcohol cleaner first if you like (then let it evaporate) but I just use the LPS-1 on it's own.
Well, I dunno:
LPS $15.50 11 oz. (Grainger)
Deoxit D-5 $12.06 5 oz. (Full Compass)
I guess the LPS is cheaper per ounce; but every tech I've ever talked to swears by Deoxit
LPS $15.50 11 oz. (Grainger)
Deoxit D-5 $12.06 5 oz. (Full Compass)
I guess the LPS is cheaper per ounce; but every tech I've ever talked to swears by Deoxit
I always poured it out on a tray to make it easier to pick out the stems and seeds and break up the flower buds into smaller pieces.😎
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