Im using a multi meter
to ohm setting
i have a Alpine R-W12D2 Subwoofer. dual voic coil
It doesnt matter how i connect it the multi meter shows 8ohm?
how is this possible if this is a new certified 2 ohm subwoofer?
Can someone help me as I have 2 of these subs and I have a 1000 watt RMS JL Audio JX1000/1d amp but i believe it runs at 500 watts if the subs are 4ohm
Just really confused, and figuring the best way to wire these subs, but the 8ohm showing doesnt make sense unless im doing somthing wrong?
to ohm setting
i have a Alpine R-W12D2 Subwoofer. dual voic coil
It doesnt matter how i connect it the multi meter shows 8ohm?
how is this possible if this is a new certified 2 ohm subwoofer?
Can someone help me as I have 2 of these subs and I have a 1000 watt RMS JL Audio JX1000/1d amp but i believe it runs at 500 watts if the subs are 4ohm
Just really confused, and figuring the best way to wire these subs, but the 8ohm showing doesnt make sense unless im doing somthing wrong?
Is the battery low on your meter?
That looks like 80 ohms.
Set the meter switch to 200 ohms and re-check.
Remove the jumper and measure one coil at a time.
That looks like 80 ohms.
Set the meter switch to 200 ohms and re-check.
Remove the jumper and measure one coil at a time.
Hi Perry, Jonny
I think the multi meter im using is crap, its $5 multi-meter, no matter what I do, which ever setting, connecting the pins at different points on the sub, it reads as 80, like all the time
this is a certified 2ohm sub
no way my sub is wrong, ive just stuck it back in the box, what I wanted to do is buy another amp as the one I have is not powerful enough to run the subs, Ive got 2 of these 2ohm subs, so 750 watt rms x 2 is 1500 watts but the amp is pushing 500 watts at 4ohm for both subs which is way to underpowered
i think i need a 1500 watt rms amplifier
Plus its possible the wiring has not been done correctly.
I think the multi meter im using is crap, its $5 multi-meter, no matter what I do, which ever setting, connecting the pins at different points on the sub, it reads as 80, like all the time
this is a certified 2ohm sub
no way my sub is wrong, ive just stuck it back in the box, what I wanted to do is buy another amp as the one I have is not powerful enough to run the subs, Ive got 2 of these 2ohm subs, so 750 watt rms x 2 is 1500 watts but the amp is pushing 500 watts at 4ohm for both subs which is way to underpowered
i think i need a 1500 watt rms amplifier
Plus its possible the wiring has not been done correctly.
The battery indicator typically only shows on startup and when the battery is low.
Does the display anything other than 80 when you touch the probes together?
If you measure the voltage across your car battery (or any battery) does it read as expected?
Does the display anything other than 80 when you touch the probes together?
If you measure the voltage across your car battery (or any battery) does it read as expected?
yeah its either the battery or the unit is no good, when i touch the probes its 80, doesnt matter what i do its always 80...😵
Try measuring a resistor of known value in that same range and see what the meter gives you.Hi Perry, Jonny
I think the multi meter im using is crap, its $5 multi-meter, no matter what I do, which ever setting, connecting the pins at different points on the sub, it reads as 80, like all the time
this is a certified 2ohm sub
no way my sub is wrong, ive just stuck it back in the box, what I wanted to do is buy another amp as the one I have is not powerful enough to run the subs, Ive got 2 of these 2ohm subs, so 750 watt rms x 2 is 1500 watts but the amp is pushing 500 watts at 4ohm for both subs which is way to underpowered
i think i need a 1500 watt rms amplifier
Plus its possible the wiring has not been done correctly.
Im not sure but going off of your picture you should measure something like 4 ohms. It seems both 2ohm coils are in series. So if you have two of these you should have both coils on both subs wired in series for 4 ohms and then parallel the two subs for 2 ohms. Don't forget that doubling the power only increases the output by 3dB. So a 1000W amp is not so much louder than a 500W amp on the same speaker. And 1500W is really not much louder than 1000W.
Kind regards,
Xa4
Kind regards,
Xa4
Depending on the meter waveform you may have trouble measuring the DCR of the voice coil due to the voice coil inductance. I have had very mixed results using a DVM for this purpose. An old analog meter may work better and a woofer tester better still.
Perhaps you can find one of these used for a decent price
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...udio-Component-Test-System-390-807?quantity=1
Perhaps you can find one of these used for a decent price
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...udio-Component-Test-System-390-807?quantity=1
Yes, you are doing quite a few things wrong.Im using a multi meter
to ohm setting
i have a Alpine R-W12D2 Subwoofer. dual voic coil
It doesnt matter how i connect it the multi meter shows 8ohm?
how is this possible if this is a new certified 2 ohm subwoofer?
Can someone help me as I have 2 of these subs and I have a 1000 watt RMS JL Audio JX1000/1d amp but i believe it runs at 500 watts if the subs are 4ohm
Just really confused, and figuring the best way to wire these subs, but the 8ohm showing doesnt make sense unless im doing somthing wrong?
View attachment 1325943
Before measuring speakers, make sure your dmm is working. Switch to lowest range, 200 ohm, and short the measuting probe leads. It should read close to zero, depending on the contact you make. Then measure each coil separately, without the bypass. You will get lower value due to coil indictance, subtract what you measured with probe leads shorted.
For accurate measurement use Dats V3, made by dayton, sold by parts express.
As mentioned above, the battery indicator display is "ON", so yes, change the battery.yeah its either the battery or the unit is no good, when i touch the probes its 80, doesnt matter what i do its always 80...😵
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Voice coil inductance will not affect a DCR reading after the test current settles out. Apply the meter to the coil, wait until the reading stabilizes, and get the DCR. This assumes that the meter uses a DC test current, which most do.Depending on the meter waveform you may have trouble measuring the DCR of the voice coil due to the voice coil inductance. I have had very mixed results using a DVM for this purpose. An old analog meter may work better and a woofer tester better still.
Perhaps you can find one of these used for a decent price
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...udio-Component-Test-System-390-807?quantity=1
Leaving aside the flat battery, you have the sub configured for 2+2=4 ohms. No need to measure, and in any case you should have been measuring impedance, not DC resistance.
I can confirm you are absolutely correct - I checked my Keithley 2002, Fluke 8050A, 8010A, and Uni-T UT61E and all of them put out relatively to very clean DC in the resistance measurement mode. I had one very cheap meter that was not pure dc and never settled on VC measurements, but none of the 4 meters I currently use do.Voice coil inductance will not affect a DCR reading after the test current settles out. Apply the meter to the coil, wait until the reading stabilizes, and get the DCR. This assumes that the meter uses a DC test current, which most do.
Yup.. 😀 I've owned it since new. I used to design semiconductor ATE hardware long ago for a small start up that ultimately went under. Not too surprisingly perhaps I was their AC analog hardware design guy. In terms of fancy test equipment I am a dilettante compared to guys like Anatech. 🤣
Back on topic @MROOD you probably should change the battery and make sure you have plugged the probes into the correct sockets - I can't see what they are plugged into and maybe 80.0 is an error code? Just a lame guess I'll admit.
Back on topic @MROOD you probably should change the battery and make sure you have plugged the probes into the correct sockets - I can't see what they are plugged into and maybe 80.0 is an error code? Just a lame guess I'll admit.
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