For treating lightly decayed wood, I've been looking for something like MinWax wood hardener, but Norway is so full of restrictions intended to protect all the fools not thinking, we cannot buy anything like Minwax, cellulose lacquers etc. etc. Everythinh that requires some brain activity ( read protection) during use is now forbidden...
The Minwax hardener is some kind of resin dissolved in some fast evaporating solution. Epoxy can be dilluted with alcohol or acetone.. any ideas if this will work ??
BTW- any swedes here? Is Minwax available in Sweden ??
The Minwax hardener is some kind of resin dissolved in some fast evaporating solution. Epoxy can be dilluted with alcohol or acetone.. any ideas if this will work ??
BTW- any swedes here? Is Minwax available in Sweden ??
The wood hardener we can get here actually uses the water in the wood to form a catalyst to bond deep and strong into the wood. I don't think diluted epoxy is going to do quite the same.
Maybe you can get a friend to send you some 😉
Maybe you can get a friend to send you some 😉
US boating shops have a product:
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy made by Boat Life
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 4 OZ 1063 Only $19.99 USD
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 32 OZ Kit 1065 Only $64.99 USD
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 16 OZ 1064 Only $40.99 USD
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy made by Boat Life
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 4 OZ 1063 Only $19.99 USD
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 32 OZ Kit 1065 Only $64.99 USD
Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy - 16 OZ 1064 Only $40.99 USD
It was almost inevitable that the low brow comedy would come out given the title of the thread, but let's please keep Aurora's thread on topic.
Aurora, Norway may be full of restrictions but it is also full of trees. Why not just get some good wood?
Aurora, Norway may be full of restrictions but it is also full of trees. Why not just get some good wood?
Wood Hardener
Hi
I've sometimes used cyanoacryl (superglue) of the runny kind with great success. The stuff is expensive and only suitable for minute bits of wood you'd like to machine or mill. Machining errors can also be corrected by using wood dust from the same piece you want to work with. If there's a machining error, place some of the same wood dust particles over the error and pour superglue on it. Then, re-machine when dry. The result can be polished or sanded with no defect visible.
bulgin
Hi
I've sometimes used cyanoacryl (superglue) of the runny kind with great success. The stuff is expensive and only suitable for minute bits of wood you'd like to machine or mill. Machining errors can also be corrected by using wood dust from the same piece you want to work with. If there's a machining error, place some of the same wood dust particles over the error and pour superglue on it. Then, re-machine when dry. The result can be polished or sanded with no defect visible.
bulgin
Kevin's idea is probably your best option assuming you can get it there. Can you get Gorilla Glue? Maybe thin that and apply gererously. Also if you need a filler, mix the undiluted glue with saw dust and apply. IT won't be stainable once you do most of these choices. Good Luck
Regards//Keith
Regards//Keith
I use a product called Benite from Daly's in Seattle, Washington. It is inexpensive, easy to use, and effective. It is available online from the Daly's web store. http://www.dalyspaint.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1
Try the Liquid Wood, here:
http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm
It's been doing a great job on my rotting 100-year-old windowsills. A great product, and just about food grade.
--Buckapound
http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm
It's been doing a great job on my rotting 100-year-old windowsills. A great product, and just about food grade.
--Buckapound
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