I have X amount of really unique looking maple Ive been saving and basically each joint will be a one shot deal, I have just about whats needed. So if I screw any up everyone's getting a mini knife rack this year.
Running this through my head for about a week now and at some point I started picturing the cut edges splintering on me, even with a new bit and 1 hp router. I might of built it up too much...lol.
If this is a good idea woulf it be better to take small incremental bites until I reach desired 1/4" into 3/4" slats? Or would it be better to go one pass at desired depth?
Basically I want to trim flat stone with maple slats for a base, nothing fancy. But Id like nice crisp cuts. Should I quit worrying and go for it, or better to wait and do this with a table saw?
Ive cut dado lines out for shelves this way but that was soft pine, this is the heavier maple.
Running this through my head for about a week now and at some point I started picturing the cut edges splintering on me, even with a new bit and 1 hp router. I might of built it up too much...lol.
If this is a good idea woulf it be better to take small incremental bites until I reach desired 1/4" into 3/4" slats? Or would it be better to go one pass at desired depth?
Basically I want to trim flat stone with maple slats for a base, nothing fancy. But Id like nice crisp cuts. Should I quit worrying and go for it, or better to wait and do this with a table saw?
Ive cut dado lines out for shelves this way but that was soft pine, this is the heavier maple.
Having trouble picturing in my mind what you want to do but when in doubt incremental cuts are the safe way to go. Easier on the bit, less tear-out & chatter, easier to guide the router. If you have a smaller diameter bit you can use that to hog out the majority of the material (again incrementally as needed) then use the bit of the correct size for a final pass.
If however you have access to a table saw with a dado set, it might be worth waiting until you can do it on that.
If however you have access to a table saw with a dado set, it might be worth waiting until you can do it on that.
Light cuts with sacrificial boards clamped to each side to enter and finish each pass. That will prevent tear out on the edges. To get them all the same you might do all the partial cuts at the same time if you have the clamps and room.
I would not do the final depth on the first passes in case the bit slips out of the collet.
Be sure to tighten the collet nut from three places each 120 degrees apart.
I would not do the final depth on the first passes in case the bit slips out of the collet.
Be sure to tighten the collet nut from three places each 120 degrees apart.
Taking heed of the advice.
For some reason the prog wouldnt save in larger form so I improvised a pic 😱 Top view of where Im going with it.
Ill form the dados leaving a bit extra to sand flush with fenced sander. That gave me much cleaner finish on other jobs. this time I figured with it higher chances averting disastrous chunk flying off by the router, have had that happen lol. As you can guess Im not Mr trick with them, keeping it basic.
I do miss the saw while its broken. I also wanted to dado to inlay vertical strips of dark wood every 3 or 4 inches around the perimeter. I wont press my luck this time.
For some reason the prog wouldnt save in larger form so I improvised a pic 😱 Top view of where Im going with it.
Ill form the dados leaving a bit extra to sand flush with fenced sander. That gave me much cleaner finish on other jobs. this time I figured with it higher chances averting disastrous chunk flying off by the router, have had that happen lol. As you can guess Im not Mr trick with them, keeping it basic.
I do miss the saw while its broken. I also wanted to dado to inlay vertical strips of dark wood every 3 or 4 inches around the perimeter. I wont press my luck this time.
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1 HP router in solid maple could be a bit of a grind, and if work pieces are not very carefully clamped with the sacrificial boards as suggested by Simon you could be in for some "fun" - that's shop speak for varying degrees of disaster
I'd tend to agree with Chuck - a new or just sharpened carbide tipped dado set on a table saw is probably a better bet.
I'd tend to agree with Chuck - a new or just sharpened carbide tipped dado set on a table saw is probably a better bet.
Sorry, but what is a 'dado end joint' ? Not a term I've come across here. I can only surmise it to be what I would call a half lap corner. We are Suffolk though 😱
It looks like what he means by a "dado end joint" is what is commonly called a rabbet joint. It looks like dischoe wants to cut a dado, glue up the pieces, then cut/sand off the part represented by red in the illustration, leaving him with a rabbet joint. I've actually used this technique before; it simplifies glue-up if you're not well equipped with clamps and/or you don't want to use nails or screws to hold the joint tight while the glue dries.
If the dado is cut cross-grain, then simon's idea of using sacrificial pieces to avoid tear-out is a good one. If the dado is parallel with the grain, then this step shouldn't be necessary.
If the dado is cut cross-grain, then simon's idea of using sacrificial pieces to avoid tear-out is a good one. If the dado is parallel with the grain, then this step shouldn't be necessary.
You are mostly correct, I plan on using two clamps per "dado end joint" 😛
I have used this technique before myself it did work well with the right number of clamps all the corners pull and lock together true and square while gluing leaving no where for corners to slip while taking great clamping force.
I might be wrong but I think its stronger than a mitred corner once glue sets because the bonded surfaces arent limited to end grains. The base will be supporting up to and not limited to 100 kilos, any if any added strength is welcome. Thirdly the little extra touch of character is nice too depending what you like.
I used to rely on the simpler butt joint before I had a proper reliable device at home. Im sure some people still turn to the butt joint because its probably the easiest way to make a corner connection.
I tried test material, think Ill hold off for now. In the mean time finish sanding it out. Where it isnt stained with dirt it appears someone rested items on it to spray, but it never got past me.
If you continue, you might consider a router table if you haven't already.
Fairly easy to make and can be a lot safer for many operations.
Fairly easy to make and can be a lot safer for many operations.
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