x-over redo : Cost vs. Effect

When you look at the x-overs in many mid level oem speakers, it seems that relatively cheap parts are used. Like electrolytic caps, steel core inductors even in the hi pass, sand cast resistors etc. Would remaking the x-over with quality poly caps, air core low dcr inductors , non inductive resistors, be worth the effort and $$$$ . I know this is subjective , dependant on how well the speaker already sounded. Case in point the Infinity IL40
 
This is said to be the crossover of the Infinity IL40:

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I believe this speaker is around 20 years old.

"Remaking" the crossover will result in a different sound balance, which could be either better or worse to your ears.
 
Yes I mentioned inductance. Obviously the cheap sand cast resistors have more inductance than a non inductive resistor, such as a Mills or Vishay or Mundorf. My basic question was, is it worth it to remake the x-over with these components.
 
idk.

definitely get those electrolytics out of there.

But the different esr may give an audible difference.

You can go pretty far.
DJK said soldereing the wires (no push on connectors) made an improvement.

I cannot say that I have replaced iron core's and sand resistors.
Or no brass (or anything ferrous) for the speaker connectors.
Most with better ears say it is better, but how much better at what cost ?

I'd throw $20 replacing caps and inductors and compare that speaker to the old one.
I am big one for adding more acoustuf inside.
Far cheaper than buying new speakers anyway, and you feel good that you improved and saved something.
 
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x-over redo : Cost vs. Effect

The most straightforward way to answer the question might be to use a competent active crossover to establish the technical performance that could be achieved. If the improvement is not particularly significant, as may well be the case for the better engineered speakers, then you will know swapping in expensive passive components is not going to achieve much at least in the sense of technical performance. It may bring other benefits depending on one's outlook. Improving the transfer functions involved in the crossover is more likely to bring audible benefits given the limitations of passive crossovers. This can be a fairly expensive exercise with passive components though it is obviously a function of the size of ones parts bin and how much guidance there may be from the prior use of a competent active crossover.
 
Generally, no. You typically won't notice a difference if swapping out for more expensive parts. Well, mostly, if you replace the iron core inductors for air core without paying attention to the change in DCR, you could alter the voicing of the speaker for the worse. As for the resistors, they're the best behaved passive component in a crossover with any reactance laying well outside the audio frequencies, so those can be left alone. New electrolytic capacitors are perfectly fine in most cases, but you could replace them with film caps if you so chose. If the caps are good, any difference will probably be better described by Beranek's law than in any actual changes. If they're good. Non-polarized electrolytic capacitors have a limited life span. The older examples from the '70s or earlier had a designed for life of 10 years. More modern examples more like 15, 20 at the outside. The IL40s are old enough (about twenty years) that the caps may be drying up and/or drifting in value and could benefit from replacement. New electrolytics would probably be fine, but you could swap them for film types if you like the speakers enough to sink a few more bucks into them 'just in case'.
 
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Thank you all for your replies . The general consensus seems to be that redoing the x-over is not worth it. Considering the price of components today, I tend to agree. These already are a decent pair of speakers. So I will leave them well enough alone.
 
Related to changing the electrolytic caps on the old x-overs, it is always worth changing the electrolytic capacitors in the tweeter filter. The price is not high if you do not go to the exotic ones and changing with standard film capacitor almost always improve the sound. I use only standard industrial film capacitors not audiophile capacitors.
 
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