For a while these DC connectors have become popular. Understandable as they can be connected fast and one can not make mistakes as with connector blocks. They are specified for 500V DC maximum, 15A of current and 1000 matings. Now Phoenix connector blocks have never disappointed me when used right but these have a certain attraction. Small, handy, fast, cheap but the main parameter "reliability" is unknown.
Do you know these and what do you think of them? I see them in battery fed throw away toys but also in university developed hardware. They start to show up on Aliexpress/Taobao audio electronics. Please note that they are gold plated which is unusual in normal industry quality high current connectors. Could be a hint that again a metallurgy knowledge mistake was made which is not unusual. They seem cheap Chinese stuff only popular because of low cost and the wish to only use locally produced stuff but they might be really good. The information found online is somewhat suspect and of YouTube quality (clicks for opinionated data). I attached the datasheet. Also: which crimping tool is needed?
https://www.ebay.de/itm/40503493934...MI9dLa3PH4hwMVTqeDBx3nEA-VEAQYCiABEgL5BvD_BwE
Do you know these and what do you think of them? I see them in battery fed throw away toys but also in university developed hardware. They start to show up on Aliexpress/Taobao audio electronics. Please note that they are gold plated which is unusual in normal industry quality high current connectors. Could be a hint that again a metallurgy knowledge mistake was made which is not unusual. They seem cheap Chinese stuff only popular because of low cost and the wish to only use locally produced stuff but they might be really good. The information found online is somewhat suspect and of YouTube quality (clicks for opinionated data). I attached the datasheet. Also: which crimping tool is needed?
https://www.ebay.de/itm/40503493934...MI9dLa3PH4hwMVTqeDBx3nEA-VEAQYCiABEgL5BvD_BwE
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These are a standard in the RC Plane (and RC cars) world (there are others). They are designed for high currents and for frequent connections/disconnections and they prevent polarity mismatches (which, when you use the high power LIPOs common in the RC world, would create a formidable firework).
No crimping tool is needed, you usually slip a shrink tube (in the colour of the polarity is good practice) over the connecting wires and solder them to to the rear end of the connectors, their pins are cradle-shaped for that.
You can get them as pigtails with attached wires (male here, female here) or as pairs without the wire (here).
No crimping tool is needed, you usually slip a shrink tube (in the colour of the polarity is good practice) over the connecting wires and solder them to to the rear end of the connectors, their pins are cradle-shaped for that.
You can get them as pigtails with attached wires (male here, female here) or as pairs without the wire (here).
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Yes they are mainly used in toys but are they good? Good as in: good for audio/DC power supplies and longlife applications? One never sees these in high reliability or medical use power electronics which is a blinking amber LED to me... In that area Phoenix, Weidmüller, WECO connectors are often used and these are also for both AC and DC.
Ah no crimping. That is a pity. Normally EU quality high current connectors are crimped/screwed connections.
Ah no crimping. That is a pity. Normally EU quality high current connectors are crimped/screwed connections.
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For RC use they are very good 😉.
I have a lot of these connectors lying around but it never occurred to me to use them for audio, because I don't usually unplug/plug the low voltage connections. If frequent plugging/unplugging is your use case and preventing polarity mismatches is a priority, they should be suitable. They are reliable for 100s of connection/disconnection cycles.
Don't ask me how they sound or "feel", though, but I would be interested in your respective description if you choose to try them.
Another reliable option from the RC world with a larger connecting surface are the T-Connectors.
If your use case is not frequent plugging/unplugging and if you can't solder the connection (which is best), a Silver connector might be a better choice since silver oxide (which might build up over time) is conductive.
I have a lot of these connectors lying around but it never occurred to me to use them for audio, because I don't usually unplug/plug the low voltage connections. If frequent plugging/unplugging is your use case and preventing polarity mismatches is a priority, they should be suitable. They are reliable for 100s of connection/disconnection cycles.
Don't ask me how they sound or "feel", though, but I would be interested in your respective description if you choose to try them.
Another reliable option from the RC world with a larger connecting surface are the T-Connectors.
If your use case is not frequent plugging/unplugging and if you can't solder the connection (which is best), a Silver connector might be a better choice since silver oxide (which might build up over time) is conductive.
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...but xt series is not only "EU quality" it is true "world quality" in RC , drones,Solar tech, E.vehicles.... where lightweight,vibration resist, high current DC connection is needed... soldering is best in this case... (!) mainly it is wire to wire connector ...
"World quality" is where the red LED starts to blink. It is a China only affair for sure.
Soldering is definitely not best. In heavy duty stuff crimping is main method and gold plating is rarely used (it is silver and alloys). I happen to know that in detail. This is definitely the case with todays lead-free soldering!
In the first post it can be seen that the PCB version exists. It is the one I saw first appearing on a board. Since I don't use toys (well except for audio 🙂) I never had noticed them. A sound design uses connectors on the boards for repair/service and these could be a substitute, that is all. 7 milliOhm is a nice value if it lasts.
Soldering is definitely not best. In heavy duty stuff crimping is main method and gold plating is rarely used (it is silver and alloys). I happen to know that in detail. This is definitely the case with todays lead-free soldering!
In the first post it can be seen that the PCB version exists. It is the one I saw first appearing on a board. Since I don't use toys (well except for audio 🙂) I never had noticed them. A sound design uses connectors on the boards for repair/service and these could be a substitute, that is all. 7 milliOhm is a nice value if it lasts.
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When I mentioned soldering, I didn't mean the connection between the wire and the plug, but the connection between the devices.
Doesn't the choice of connection depend on the use case? In airplane engines you crimp the wires to the connectors because a soldered connection isn't vibration-resistant (and you also secure the plugs against disconnections). But for non-vibrating environments like audio? Also, crimping is probably cheaper and faster which is important for commercial products - less so for our hobby. But then, I'm not an expert at all in this field and am happy to learn from you.
Doesn't the choice of connection depend on the use case? In airplane engines you crimp the wires to the connectors because a soldered connection isn't vibration-resistant (and you also secure the plugs against disconnections). But for non-vibrating environments like audio? Also, crimping is probably cheaper and faster which is important for commercial products - less so for our hobby. But then, I'm not an expert at all in this field and am happy to learn from you.
As we tend to exaggerate a little many like to make stuff sturdy and vibration resistant. This is the opposite of the melt glue/adhesive tape/cheapest possible/wooden plank corner. If one is used to industrial stuff one picks up some of the used practices for high reliability too which does not hurt. If it is always necessary is another subject 🙂
For serviceability/future modification/repair it is good to be able to disconnect pretty good connections even if that may happen only twice in the devices lifetime. No more no less. If one is used to that Molex KK, JST and Phoenix MKDS(N) are familiar terms for reliable connections of wires to PCBs. Maybe the XT30 family will enter our DIY audio world too as prices are competitive.
For serviceability/future modification/repair it is good to be able to disconnect pretty good connections even if that may happen only twice in the devices lifetime. No more no less. If one is used to that Molex KK, JST and Phoenix MKDS(N) are familiar terms for reliable connections of wires to PCBs. Maybe the XT30 family will enter our DIY audio world too as prices are competitive.
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These high current connectors require considerable force to mate and unmate, don't have strain relief, and can't be rewired in a hurry in the field, not really suited for casual connection - that's why SpeakOn's exist for PA systems, which have screw terminals inside, good strain relief, easy to connect, robust, prevent fingers touching the signals (PA speakers can have 100V or more...).
However these RC connectors are a good compact high current connector in certain applications. You should also consider Anderson power-pole connectors I think - high current and rugged and the big ones have optional handles for pulling them apart.
However these RC connectors are a good compact high current connector in certain applications. You should also consider Anderson power-pole connectors I think - high current and rugged and the big ones have optional handles for pulling them apart.