The xtant is a 3 channel amp 75x2 + 150x1 at 4ohms or 150x2 + 300x1 at 2 ohms. The system is going in a Ford 350 dully. The doors have 6x9's.
My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12".
Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors.
I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod.
I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=235572&stc=1&d=1313453866
My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12".
Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors.
I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod.
I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=235572&stc=1&d=1313453866
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If you want SQ, then put that Xtanx amp in the trash. The one time my truck got broken into I made the mistake of replacing my stolen Soundstream amps with new Xtant amps. What awful cold, sterile, and lifeless sound those Xtant amps have. I sold the Xtant amps and went back to old school Soundstream amps.
What model did you have? Was it pre mitek. Everyone I have talked to says this line was amazing for sq. This model was engineered by the origial guys from ppi.
A model 3300C running subs and midbass. Then a 2100B running Image Dynamics HLCD with 5.25 mids. I went back to running a Reference 500 on subs, Reference 300 on midbass, and Class A 6.0 for the HLCD and mids. No contest - not even close. I was never all that impressed with the PPI amps SQ. They were okay at best. I would take the original Rockford Fosgate Punch series (45, 75, 150) over any of the PPI Art series.
Yea my cousin just pulled out an old punch 75 out of his closet. Were going to run a 10" sub off it.
These xtant amps are way more complex then they ever needed to be IMO. I fixed one 603x, and a second one I had was a complete wreck from something falling inside and shorting out lots of components - never fixed. I'd also leave it on the shelf and also prefer old school SS. I've got a Reference 1000sx running two Polk 8" subs and a SoundStream MC140x bridged running front door speakers. Sure they are not as efficient as the XTant mosfet design but do sound oh-so-good. i never knew subwoofers could sound like real bass guitars. So mellow. The good SS amps are going to cost you a bunch.
I also came from liking PPI Power-Class old school amps which I thought were the shiz back then. They are good, but not like others I have seen since I've wised up and started fixing amps. Zed Audio is also top-notch but my SS1000sx is bigger than anything I have made by Zed ATM.
I also came from liking PPI Power-Class old school amps which I thought were the shiz back then. They are good, but not like others I have seen since I've wised up and started fixing amps. Zed Audio is also top-notch but my SS1000sx is bigger than anything I have made by Zed ATM.
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Ok as much as I appreciate your input, the amp is already commited. I would appreciate some input on a good comp. set for under $500. I have used CDT ES comps. and massonics MBQ Qline comps. but that is about the extent of my listening experience. I was thinking of finding a 2 ohm set so I could run 150w to the front stage.
I run the IDQv3 subs in my truck and they sound very nice but wouldn't mind finding something comparable just to try something new.
I run the IDQv3 subs in my truck and they sound very nice but wouldn't mind finding something comparable just to try something new.
I’m sorry I did not intend to crap on your thread. Please accept my apologies. Back on topic now. I would find it hard to beat the MB Quart Q216 component set. Just make sure you use a reasonable high pass setting on the 6.5” woofer. If used anything much below 80Hz to 100Hz the midrange can start to smear a bit. Keep them clean by relieving them from trying to produce bass frequencies. This is why I’ve always like a dedicated mid bass in my vehicles. I like having something like a really tight pro sound style 8” or 10” handle 60Hz to 240Hz.
That's what I need to do! I have some 4" comps in my back doors for rear fill but in my opinion don't do much to improve the sound. I keep my fade more on the front anyway. I would like to use that available power to increase my mid base and do away with the 4's. Oh and by the way I wasn't offended I appreciate any help I can get.
Do you have any of the modules that plug into that amp or will you be using an outboard crossover?
If you have or can get your hands on an RM4, RM8, RM12, or an RM16 which are the resistor modules (RM) that activate & attenuate the passive rear outputs, then you can use a good 4 Ohm component set up front and a simple 4 Ohm co-ax pair in back. You don't need it so it isn't a must have.
If you decide NOT to put anything in for rear fill, I recommend that you stay with a 4 Ohm load on the front channels. You could go to a 2 Ohm load on the mono channel to get the maximum power output but it might be better to find a real efficient sub that on 150 Watts will keep up with 75 watts up front. These amps tend to run warm at idle no need to make them warmer than they need to be.
I have owned a 301A and a 302A which is basically what you have in one chassis. You may want to verify the bias on this amp to maximize the sound quality. I think I read on here that XTANT amps of this era tend to drift a bit. Certainly somebody correct me if I am wrong, the ones I had certainly did.
If you have or can get your hands on an RM4, RM8, RM12, or an RM16 which are the resistor modules (RM) that activate & attenuate the passive rear outputs, then you can use a good 4 Ohm component set up front and a simple 4 Ohm co-ax pair in back. You don't need it so it isn't a must have.
If you decide NOT to put anything in for rear fill, I recommend that you stay with a 4 Ohm load on the front channels. You could go to a 2 Ohm load on the mono channel to get the maximum power output but it might be better to find a real efficient sub that on 150 Watts will keep up with 75 watts up front. These amps tend to run warm at idle no need to make them warmer than they need to be.
I have owned a 301A and a 302A which is basically what you have in one chassis. You may want to verify the bias on this amp to maximize the sound quality. I think I read on here that XTANT amps of this era tend to drift a bit. Certainly somebody correct me if I am wrong, the ones I had certainly did.
A 4" isn't enough to do much as you found out. An inexspensive midbass option that works well is the new Eminence Eminator 1508. Its Fs is right around 80Hz which makes it perfect to hand off to your subs. It has a cloth surround so you never have to worry about it dry rotting. They are also only like $32 a piece. The only down side, if you want to call it that, is it is 8 ohms. However, it is much more sensitive than most other car audio 8" so you probably won't notice a reduction in power from the higher impedance.
I do not have any modules, I do however have all the sip chips. Could you explain your last statement a bit more.?
You may want to verify the bias on this amp to maximize the sound quality. I think I read on here that XTANT amps of this era tend to drift a bit. Certainly somebody correct me if I am wrong, the ones I had certainly did
You may want to verify the bias on this amp to maximize the sound quality. I think I read on here that XTANT amps of this era tend to drift a bit. Certainly somebody correct me if I am wrong, the ones I had certainly did
I was thinking this amp was like the ones I had in that you had to utilize the accesory port for a crossover module. I forgot "X" in the model number meant crossover onboard, my mistake.
Here is a link to an older thread that discusses DC Offset and Bias, although I can't remember exactly where I read about the "XTANT's tend to drift" comment I made if it wasn't on this site somewhere.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/119784-xtant-x604-dc-offset.html?highlight=Xtant+Offset
If you search around the site using "offset" and "bias" as key words, you'll find numerous discussions on how it's done with various amplifiers.
If after you read up on the process and you have a multimeter, I suggest that you take close up pictures of the audio section of the amp and start a new thread asking for this help.
Here is a link to an older thread that discusses DC Offset and Bias, although I can't remember exactly where I read about the "XTANT's tend to drift" comment I made if it wasn't on this site somewhere.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/119784-xtant-x604-dc-offset.html?highlight=Xtant+Offset
If you search around the site using "offset" and "bias" as key words, you'll find numerous discussions on how it's done with various amplifiers.
If after you read up on the process and you have a multimeter, I suggest that you take close up pictures of the audio section of the amp and start a new thread asking for this help.
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