Has anyone else here used ZAR brand varnish and stains?
It's not a brand that was known to me until very recently. Went by the local paint store and they recommend it for fast drying.
ZAR® Ultra Interior Oil-Based Polyurethane, Satin | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Yea, it dries fast! So fast, it's hard to apply. They did warn me at the store. It's thick and dries so fast that getting a smooth coat with a brush is near impossible for me. So I decided to make a rub on finish out of it and cut it 50% with VM&P Naphtha. Since the naphtha is also fast drying, they seem to make a good combo. Normally the ZAR is dry to recoat in 2 hours, but cut 50% I can recoat in about 1 hour or a little more.
50/50 is darn thin, so it does not build up fast. 60/40 might be a better mix, I'll try that next. Full strength or diluted, I like the look of the varnish. Slightly yellow which warms things up and compliments walnut ply. I use satin because I don't want a super shiny finish.
The stain I do not like, way to difficult to apply, although the colors are pretty.
Anyone else use ZAR? I have not seen it mentioned on the forum.
It's not a brand that was known to me until very recently. Went by the local paint store and they recommend it for fast drying.
ZAR® Ultra Interior Oil-Based Polyurethane, Satin | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Yea, it dries fast! So fast, it's hard to apply. They did warn me at the store. It's thick and dries so fast that getting a smooth coat with a brush is near impossible for me. So I decided to make a rub on finish out of it and cut it 50% with VM&P Naphtha. Since the naphtha is also fast drying, they seem to make a good combo. Normally the ZAR is dry to recoat in 2 hours, but cut 50% I can recoat in about 1 hour or a little more.
50/50 is darn thin, so it does not build up fast. 60/40 might be a better mix, I'll try that next. Full strength or diluted, I like the look of the varnish. Slightly yellow which warms things up and compliments walnut ply. I use satin because I don't want a super shiny finish.
The stain I do not like, way to difficult to apply, although the colors are pretty.
Anyone else use ZAR? I have not seen it mentioned on the forum.
I used that product to seal the edges when assembling a laminate floor in a house once, dries fast for sure.
I still like the varathane products for most things since it will flow out.
I still like the varathane products for most things since it will flow out.
Flow out... as in the finish is liquid on the surface and the brush or rag marks will "flow out" and leave a smooth surface. Also applies to orange peel flowing out when finish is sprayed. No finish can flow out 100% or we would not be able to apply to vertical surfaces.
Applying multiple coats of thin finish with a rag produces a very nice finish. Rubbing out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax when dry leaves a superb look and feel.
Try waterlox thinned with mineral spirits. It's my favorite varnish.
https://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-penetrating-tung-oil-floor-sealer-finish
Applying multiple coats of thin finish with a rag produces a very nice finish. Rubbing out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax when dry leaves a superb look and feel.
Try waterlox thinned with mineral spirits. It's my favorite varnish.
https://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-penetrating-tung-oil-floor-sealer-finish
If you're looking for a clear finish with excellent "flow out", look at floor finishes. Floor urethanes are designed for horizontal use, and stay liquid longer. They are much more prone to drip marks on vertical surfaces, though... I've used several brands including Benjamin Moore, Verathane, Deft, and they're all quite similar.
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I've used and liked Varathane varnish for speaker projects. I've also used it to soak buzzing chokes with good results.
Thanks, I'll look at the Varathane varnish. A good flow out would help me a lot.
I do love the fast drying time of the ZAR, that's been a real pleasure.
I do love the fast drying time of the ZAR, that's been a real pleasure.
varathane is nice after thinning it out with paint thinners. I dont remember exact ratios I mixed, they were approx 30%-35%, maybe as much as 40. I added thinners until it reached a consistency I was satisfied with. Applied up to three thin coats over stain finish allowing it to dry a day between each, or a couple if I couldnt get back to it sooner. It does take longer to dry but thats what I wanted to eliminate brush lines. Im my case I used a foam applicator. Thin coats are key to avoiding inconsistent build up and runs but if you do cause a run its easily smoothed out while not messing up the area. Even if you catch it several minutes later. I dip the applicator then dab it off on some cardboard before applying. The second coats went on extremely nice and smooth, as did the third. Each gets better. I didnt feel steel wool in between was necessary but that could of made it even nicer.
It does take longer to dry but a few days seem like nothing considering its still holding up and looking great some years later. When finishing something I finally understand the need to win the wrestle with patience.
Another thing I remember air bubbles forming on things while using pure varathane, not after thinning it.
The more thinners you add the more flow rate increases and the longer it will take to dry. If you mix it too rich it can be a real pain to work with. I looked for an acceptable balance by eyeballing it and applying on scrap material. In the end it was worth the extra time involved.
It does take longer to dry but a few days seem like nothing considering its still holding up and looking great some years later. When finishing something I finally understand the need to win the wrestle with patience.
Another thing I remember air bubbles forming on things while using pure varathane, not after thinning it.
The more thinners you add the more flow rate increases and the longer it will take to dry. If you mix it too rich it can be a real pain to work with. I looked for an acceptable balance by eyeballing it and applying on scrap material. In the end it was worth the extra time involved.
Thanks, good to know. My 50/50 mix with the Zar is very thin, maybe too thin. But it goes on smooth as water with a cotton rag. I've been using de-waxed shellac under it, to seal the walnut some. The thinned ZAR seems to run right down into the pores and then take forever to built up a smooth coat.
I agree that several thin coats will give a much better end result than any thick coat.
Expirimentation is a good practice before cutting loose on your precious parts.
Thinning is required to allow a thinner covering to flow, the consistency of milk is what I shoot for when spraying. Another application method will likely be somewhere between that and how it came from the can.
Expirimentation is a good practice before cutting loose on your precious parts.
Thinning is required to allow a thinner covering to flow, the consistency of milk is what I shoot for when spraying. Another application method will likely be somewhere between that and how it came from the can.
If you are spraying I have really been wanting to try General Finish's conversion varnish. I won't use any other products for finishing other than General Finish. They have phenomenal products. If you are looking for a great easy to apply wipe on finish their "high performance top coat" really can't be beat.
Thanks. I've read a lot of good reviews of the General Finish product and am keen to try some. There are a few places around here that sell it, well have to go get some. 
What do you think of their wood stains?
What do you think of their wood stains?
Their gel stains are awesome especially for Woods that tend to take stain unevenly such as pine or birch.
Once you get into spray application with decent equipment you will let your brushes wait for a painting project. Also agree with the General Finishes thumbs up.
Thanks, I'll give them a try, for sure.
As I use walnut almost exclusively, stain has not been a big problem. I've tried a few, solvent and water based. I keep coming back to good old Minwax oil stains, as they look good and are very easy to use on walnut. With the walnut, I don't need much color anyway.
I have tried stain on birch and poplar. Crikey! What a headache, such blotchiness. Poplar seems the worst.
As I use walnut almost exclusively, stain has not been a big problem. I've tried a few, solvent and water based. I keep coming back to good old Minwax oil stains, as they look good and are very easy to use on walnut. With the walnut, I don't need much color anyway.
I have tried stain on birch and poplar. Crikey! What a headache, such blotchiness. Poplar seems the worst.
I've been looking at their website, and can't figure out which one this is. Can you help me find it? Cheers.
The gel stains would work great on Poplar and birch and if you really wanted to make sure that there are no blotchy areas you can do a thin coat of Clear shellac before applying the gel stain. However, you will require more coats of stain to get the color. Look up their high performance water based top coat on Amazon it will come up. It is sold in a green can.
I use this for softer woods that can get splotchy;
Benite Wood Conditioner : DALY'S : Paint and Decorating / Wood Finishes
Benite Wood Conditioner : DALY'S : Paint and Decorating / Wood Finishes
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