Hay thank you so much for the advice , I will definitely try all this. What I am realy trying to get close to is the PMC MB2s XBD studio monitors as the cabs are designd around them and all the drivers ,so the info is out there but its all a matter of putting it all together with the filters .. If I could pass all the info onto someone else I would 
, anyway your help is much appreciated.. All the very best from Japan ,,
, anyway your help is much appreciated.. All the very best from Japan ,,
You need to connect them using a S/PDIF coax cable, the one with RCA plugs. This is the only way. Optical can only be used for input. So you have a master unit - the one with the remote - and a slave unit.
You connect the cable from the coax OUT of the master to the coax IN of the slave. You now connect to the amps via USB cable from your pc, and you define the master as master in the Hypex tool, and the slave as slave. Source lock the slave. Set channel of the master to left or right. And the slave to the other one of course.
This way both control commands (ON/OFF, volume change etc) and the audio stream will be sent over the coax from master to slave. You only need to send the audio to the master from your source. There's an exception to this when using analogue RCA connectors, but I'm sending stereo to my master via optical/toslink.
You can also send your audio stream via coax to your master (input) and still connect to the slave via coax (output)
Your slave needs to be powered up first or at the same time as the master.
Tip: This is all explained in the manual, I read it a few times, it helps
You connect the cable from the coax OUT of the master to the coax IN of the slave. You now connect to the amps via USB cable from your pc, and you define the master as master in the Hypex tool, and the slave as slave. Source lock the slave. Set channel of the master to left or right. And the slave to the other one of course.
This way both control commands (ON/OFF, volume change etc) and the audio stream will be sent over the coax from master to slave. You only need to send the audio to the master from your source. There's an exception to this when using analogue RCA connectors, but I'm sending stereo to my master via optical/toslink.
You can also send your audio stream via coax to your master (input) and still connect to the slave via coax (output)
Your slave needs to be powered up first or at the same time as the master.
Tip: This is all explained in the manual, I read it a few times, it helps
Hi , so this is the part where i really want to throw everything out the window with this filter design BS.. sorry for the rant .. so i managed do all the step by step stuff from the paperwork, but the BIG problem is getting the 4th order crossover and phase situation under control .. I am a complete dummy when it comes to this sort of thing , no matter what i do i can not get the outcome i would like , ive been at it for almost two weeks now , yes there is sound but its not good . I thought i had it a few days ago but the crossover placement was wrong and moving all the filter points just pulls the phase and F up the crossover . As you know moving one thing effects the other . I loaded the woofer and tweeter profile but that didn't help , I stared from scratch with flat response across the board but I guys this is one of them things i must admit has me totally at a dead end.. Also how the hell do you individually adjust the volume for each 3 channels ? its not the off set in device settings .. ? give me a set of solid State amps any day
There has been no technical firmware for some time now. What annoys me most is that with the new Hypex Remote Fusion OLED in the " Mute " position nothing is displayed all the time. How often there was no sound because I pressed the mute button and the display didn't show it. The old system with the LED showed this by flashing. Reported to Hypex months ago. Nothing.
In addition, I still have a slight pop from the speakers when switching off via the remote control. According to Hypex, this is hardware-related and should no longer occur in the newer versions. But it also occurs with current models. Everything is weak... very weak!
Greetings Dirk
In addition, I still have a slight pop from the speakers when switching off via the remote control. According to Hypex, this is hardware-related and should no longer occur in the newer versions. But it also occurs with current models. Everything is weak... very weak!
Greetings Dirk
Hi, I have a Hypex Ncore NC252MP based amp from Audiophonics. It developed a problem, luckily still in warranty period, where after 1-2 hours of listening it turns off for a minute or two, then it continues. Then it turns off more and more frequently. It's also much warmer to the touch, compared to my other Class D amp (an ICEpower 125ASX2 based one).
Now they contacted me from the warranty department, that they found the problem, it was one capacitor. They are changing all 6 identical capacitors.
I'd like to ask you: do you think this will fix the problem? I mean is there a chance that the overheating, etc. was not because the capacitors, but the capacitors went wrong because of the heat? Are there any common faults with Hypex Ncore NC252MP modules?
Now they contacted me from the warranty department, that they found the problem, it was one capacitor. They are changing all 6 identical capacitors.
I'd like to ask you: do you think this will fix the problem? I mean is there a chance that the overheating, etc. was not because the capacitors, but the capacitors went wrong because of the heat? Are there any common faults with Hypex Ncore NC252MP modules?
Kind of disappointing for these class D amps that tout super efficiency. I wish these class D manufacturers would design in some heatsinks and good old vents at least to minimize the need for fans. The weather is starting to heat up here in California, and I noticed that my "efficient" GaN amp was getting a bit warm, in a closed chassis without vent holes or heatsinks
Hot is relative... My FA253's run about 120 F (49 C). If I touch the aluminum plate chassis, it feels very warm. But this temperature is completely safe and efficient for electronics. When electronics get to 185 F (85 C), that is when we need to be concerned about decreasing reliability. This is hot enough to injure our skin.
So how hot does your amp run ?
So how hot does your amp run ?
Amami life, designing your crossover on an amplifier sounds challenging. Even for an experienced designer it would be like working at a desk that has no space. Using a crossover simulator gives you the place to put your measurements, create your target curves and work on your curve arithmetic, add your filters, apply your voicing, check phase and ultimately power...
You can modell the crossover in an appropriate software (as AllenB say) but you can do it without modelling if you want. Just straighten the driver's responses at least 1 octave past the target crossover point on your target axis, then apply 4th order Linkwitz-Riley filters (which consist of two cascaded 2nd order Q=0.71 low- or high-pass), reverse one driver polarity, then adjust the timing until you see the deepest reverse null in the frequency response, then flip back the polarity to normal, done.
This is how I did it when I first started with the FA253. I had a USB mic and I could never manage to get the measurements of the several drivers to use the same time reference. But this method you speak of worked well for me.
Now with a more sophisticated XLR mic and USB audio interface, of course, I capture timing and phase information that is intact. Now I can go back and verify my original time delays and I find that the "reverse null" method was accurate to within the 11 us (microsecond) resolution of the Hypex DSP.
The FusionAmp manual has examples of crossovers and explains their effects.Hi , so this is the part where i really want to throw everything out the window with this filter design BS.. sorry for the rant .. so i managed do all the step by step stuff from the paperwork, but the BIG problem is getting the 4th order crossover and phase situation under control .. I am a complete dummy when it comes to this sort of thing , no matter what i do i can not get the outcome i would like , ive been at it for almost two weeks now , yes there is sound but its not good . I thought i had it a few days ago but the crossover placement was wrong and moving all the filter points just pulls the phase and F up the crossover . As you know moving one thing effects the other . I loaded the woofer and tweeter profile but that didn't help , I stared from scratch with flat response across the board but I guys this is one of them things i must admit has me totally at a dead end.. Also how the hell do you individually adjust the volume for each 3 channels ? its not the off set in device settings .. ? give me a set of solid State amps any day
Phase angle of Infinite Impulse Response (IIR) crossovers must be taken into account when designing speaker crossovers. You should search the web for guides.
The limiting factor on the ncore modules is the power supply part.
Mostly thermally limited.
This is even stated in their datasheets.
25-50W continues power is nothing to write home about
So yeah definitely cool that thing down.