@the nines
Thank you!! Much appreciated. Just picked up the power supply this morning. See how it goes tonight after work.
Thank you!! Much appreciated. Just picked up the power supply this morning. See how it goes tonight after work.
Got the power supply plugged in last night. It was a relief that it turned on and the condition of it, exterior wise, was good.
The 45rpm setting is fine. The 33rpm is off, seems slow. The 78rpm has the problem that I've read elsewhere that it just runs away with speed.
I will open up both the table and power supply and do a visual inspection, then adjust voltages. It will need the caps replaced regardless.
The 45rpm setting is fine. The 33rpm is off, seems slow. The 78rpm has the problem that I've read elsewhere that it just runs away with speed.
I will open up both the table and power supply and do a visual inspection, then adjust voltages. It will need the caps replaced regardless.
Progress made on the SP-10 MkII. The capacitors showed up yesterday afternoon, so I finished re-capping, servicing and adjusting the power supply. The seller stated the PS was 120VAC but it was labled 100VAC, and he had apparently just adjusted the 5V and 32.5V DC supplies to compensate, leaving the neon supply running at 170V. I made adjustments at the proper 100VAC input using my variac, then tested with the turntable. I have a stepdown transformer waiting in the wings.
I then removed all of the boards in the turntable, cleaned and inspected them...
...then replaced all electrolytic capacitors. It was good that I made that decision, because 2 caps had leaked on the logic board, damaging one trace and damaging the mask on another. I repaired the damaged trace and applied acrylic conformal coating after completing all repairs. Several other caps tested well out of spec on my LCR testers, which was not a surprise to me. I reassembled and connected all of the boards, then tested again.
Now I've pulled the boards again, and have disassembled the motor, so I can replace the ball and thrust pad. Just getting ready now to remove the bearing cap. The bearing was not completely dry, but pretty close.
I've got silicon nitride balls showing up soon, but have yet to find the thrust pads. Looks like the auction site seller is gone?
I then removed all of the boards in the turntable, cleaned and inspected them...
...then replaced all electrolytic capacitors. It was good that I made that decision, because 2 caps had leaked on the logic board, damaging one trace and damaging the mask on another. I repaired the damaged trace and applied acrylic conformal coating after completing all repairs. Several other caps tested well out of spec on my LCR testers, which was not a surprise to me. I reassembled and connected all of the boards, then tested again.
Now I've pulled the boards again, and have disassembled the motor, so I can replace the ball and thrust pad. Just getting ready now to remove the bearing cap. The bearing was not completely dry, but pretty close.
I've got silicon nitride balls showing up soon, but have yet to find the thrust pads. Looks like the auction site seller is gone?
Attachments
Well. Removing the bearing cap is easier said than done. Even after judicious application of heat, that baby doesn't want to budge. I've mauled up my thick rubber strap wrench being used as a gripper/protector for the metal cap while I use a pipe wrench - no joy yet.
Time to work on something else and let this bearing give some thought to why it needs to be so uncooperative!
EDIT - nah. Couldn't walk away. More heat. Done!
Time to work on something else and let this bearing give some thought to why it needs to be so uncooperative!
EDIT - nah. Couldn't walk away. More heat. Done!
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Excellent work.
One thing that has always bothered me in the 35 years that I have been playing with various SP-10 TTs is the braking system.
Whilst I can appreciate the dedication of those people who wish to fully restore to original most of us want also to improve our TTs
for normal listening usage. So why bother with what is only really of use in a broadcast TT ???
One thing that has always bothered me in the 35 years that I have been playing with various SP-10 TTs is the braking system.
Whilst I can appreciate the dedication of those people who wish to fully restore to original most of us want also to improve our TTs
for normal listening usage. So why bother with what is only really of use in a broadcast TT ???
Yep - absolutely no surprise at all there. Thanks adding data for others, though.
Lots of heat, and fast. I use my hot air rework.
I thought it useful to report, since there was some input made earlier that it was unnecessary.
Huh. I didn't think of that. Better control, more focused than my heat gun, which required protection for the area with a deflector.
I really can't think of why it would be needed to re-install the cap with blue threadlocker. The advancements in automotive sealants have resulted in at least two materials I've used to build high performance engines and gearboxes that are specifically formulated to seal threads in chemical/oil environments without making disassembly difficult. That pot-metal looking cap shouldn't be subjected to that much force, even with heat, if not needed.
The ball had almost no indication of wear - just a little dot that could not be felt with a fingernail. The pad has a dimple that looks like it is designed-in (?) and a tiny dot of wear roughly centered in that. I'm wondering if it's even necessary to replace the pad.
Using the rework station I can spin them off without tools - just a towel so I don’t burn myself. But, yes, many ways to skin that cat.
Dimple is from wear - they’re flat when new. An initial dimple will form rather quickly and then not progress much if proper lubrication is maintained. Steve (user510) has posts here showing this during his material experiments for replacement thrust pads.