Hi there!
I'm proud owner of a pair of Acoustat Spectra 11's.
Sadly, they are in poor condition.
1) The rubber on the side of one of the subwoofer membranes ripped. What do I need to know to replace the membrane? Should I repalce the membrane or should I repalce the rubber itself?
2) The left speaker is very damp on the high range. The electrostats still seem to work but the sound is definitely worse than on the right side. What could be the problem and what shlould I do about it?
Thanks in advance!
I'm proud owner of a pair of Acoustat Spectra 11's.
Sadly, they are in poor condition.
1) The rubber on the side of one of the subwoofer membranes ripped. What do I need to know to replace the membrane? Should I repalce the membrane or should I repalce the rubber itself?
2) The left speaker is very damp on the high range. The electrostats still seem to work but the sound is definitely worse than on the right side. What could be the problem and what shlould I do about it?
Thanks in advance!
In regards to the damaged woofer, it would not be cost effective to repair. However, I have a brand new Spectra 11 woofer, still in the original carton. Please send me a Private Message and perhaps we can work out a deal.
The problem with the electrostatic portion of the speaker might be caused by a need for a simple upgrade to the bias power supply. Some early Spectras had this problem, which was fixed in later production. On the circuit board, you will see a square coil (probably black in color) soldered to the board. There will be a red wire exiting from the top of the coil. Look to see if there is another wire wrapped around that red wire. If there is NO wire wrapped around it, you speaker needs modification, and I can post the instructions when I get home. If there IS a wire wrapped around the red wire, then you have a different problem which we can work on.
The problem with the electrostatic portion of the speaker might be caused by a need for a simple upgrade to the bias power supply. Some early Spectras had this problem, which was fixed in later production. On the circuit board, you will see a square coil (probably black in color) soldered to the board. There will be a red wire exiting from the top of the coil. Look to see if there is another wire wrapped around that red wire. If there is NO wire wrapped around it, you speaker needs modification, and I can post the instructions when I get home. If there IS a wire wrapped around the red wire, then you have a different problem which we can work on.
Hmmm...your linked image isn't showing up properly.
See this "How-To" on attaching images to post: How to attach images to your posts.
Below is image with green arrow pointing the the wrapped wire AAMan was talking about. If your interfaces don't have it, attached documents AAMan mentioned should walk you thru upgrading and adjusting your HV supplies.
One thing you might try first if you haven't already, is swap panels between the interfaces and see if the problem follows the panel or stays with the interface.
See this "How-To" on attaching images to post: How to attach images to your posts.
Below is image with green arrow pointing the the wrapped wire AAMan was talking about. If your interfaces don't have it, attached documents AAMan mentioned should walk you thru upgrading and adjusting your HV supplies.
One thing you might try first if you haven't already, is swap panels between the interfaces and see if the problem follows the panel or stays with the interface.
Attachments
Bolsterst-Thanks for posting the photo and instructions. Also good advice on swapping the interfaces as a diagnostic tool.
The issue with the original Ultrasonic Power Supply was that its operation was unreliable: sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. The upgrade, which is very simple, and actually involves fewer parts (!), makes its operation consistent. Even if this isn't the cause of your problem, I suggest you do the upgrade to avoid any issues with that. Assuming of course, you have the proper tools and skills, or can find someone who does.
The issue with the original Ultrasonic Power Supply was that its operation was unreliable: sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. The upgrade, which is very simple, and actually involves fewer parts (!), makes its operation consistent. Even if this isn't the cause of your problem, I suggest you do the upgrade to avoid any issues with that. Assuming of course, you have the proper tools and skills, or can find someone who does.
I'm tempted to say "if you have to ask that question, then perhaps you should find someone qualified to do the work". Yes, soldering skills are required. Before performing any work on the speaker, remove all power and wait for it to discharge for several hours. And finally, if you don't have the proper skills and equipment to measure and adjust the voltage (as outlined in the instructions), then don't even start the work yourself.
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