Take it from a self-proclaimed master sander and carver, not needing to sand is finer craftsmanship! Let me know if you want to see examples of years of fine sanding and the results. My record is about 6 months of sanding on 1 item around 10hrs a day just for the quality of finish target! If you are ever in Sydney, walk down to the Capitol Theatre and checkout the neon peacocks and the attention to detail I did there
The finest crafted cut will be perfect the first time, everything else is correcting!
I know people who use lasers for production, the man who makes carton cutting dies, laser cut slots in wood, then steel blades are fitted...he uses a 2 kW CO2 laser.
That has a reflector / amplifier chamber with gas worth a lot of money, as above.
For wood, it seems you need a CO2 or similar laser, the tube is the size of an office chair, maybe bigger.
The other friend, with a small 100W unit, he uses it for cutting acrylic and polycarbonate. That is not a CO2 laser, it is another type.
The laser beam comes from a tube, which is then reflected on to the job, even a 80W unit is about the size of a briefcase.
That item is not seen (at a casual glance) in Randy's posted photo.
I suggest you read up in detail, before spending cash on a (to me, at least), puny 80W unit.
That has a reflector / amplifier chamber with gas worth a lot of money, as above.
For wood, it seems you need a CO2 or similar laser, the tube is the size of an office chair, maybe bigger.
The other friend, with a small 100W unit, he uses it for cutting acrylic and polycarbonate. That is not a CO2 laser, it is another type.
The laser beam comes from a tube, which is then reflected on to the job, even a 80W unit is about the size of a briefcase.
That item is not seen (at a casual glance) in Randy's posted photo.
I suggest you read up in detail, before spending cash on a (to me, at least), puny 80W unit.
If somebody with 30 years experience spends a huge amount of money for a 2 kW CO2 laser, he must have studied the items on offer....at exhibitions in Germany, China and other places, before deciding to buy it.
He is a businessman, been making those tools for printers for many yeares now, he used to have jigsaws for making the slots, and hand machines for bending and cutting the blades.
Next was a CNC router and a CNC blade former, later router failed (Italians gave him a rebuilt unit, he sued) so he got a laser.
His machines have to be first rate, and he is well known in his field all over India.
Please respect that hard earned knowledge.
Sellers on line do make wild claims at times, and you are unlikely to sue him for $250 + shipping, if it does not work properly.
Lasers for steel are much cheaper...another owner uses his to cut and engrave steel sheets, makes surgical sterilisation boxes as well.
He is a businessman, been making those tools for printers for many yeares now, he used to have jigsaws for making the slots, and hand machines for bending and cutting the blades.
Next was a CNC router and a CNC blade former, later router failed (Italians gave him a rebuilt unit, he sued) so he got a laser.
His machines have to be first rate, and he is well known in his field all over India.
Please respect that hard earned knowledge.
Sellers on line do make wild claims at times, and you are unlikely to sue him for $250 + shipping, if it does not work properly.
Lasers for steel are much cheaper...another owner uses his to cut and engrave steel sheets, makes surgical sterilisation boxes as well.
Man that's his knowledge and all the respect to him for that and all the respect to you for passing that knowledge on. But that sounds thoroughly industrial and doesn't really relate to home DIY
Actually, it is starting to appear that you are getting offended at DIY attempts to achieve cutting boards at home because it took your friend huge amounts of money to that at an industrial scale. There is no need for any of that as I am not looking to step on anyone's toes, man. From the tone of just about all the responses to my proposal, I have to draw the conclusion that folks are taking an exception to my proposal to come up with a better cutting system that doesn't cost a huge amount of money and exacting craft work is not thought of as very important for what they do
No, my friend came up the hard way from a financially modest background, and like most people here, he does tend to be conservative about money.
He took a big risk when he got that machine, bank loans to a very high level.
I am simply pointing out that your way may not give the expected results.
It is after all your money and your effort...I will not gain or lose anything except my time in this quest.
I am trying to help you make a wood saw with good rigidity, and high repeat accuracy.
Oh, one more thing, his brother has a factory making instrument boxes in wood for a dial and lever gauge maker in Pune, 600 km away.
Those guys are craftsmen, they will feel the wood when they are talking about the job.
One more thing, your project, if it is a one off, could be made from laser cut pieces, done at a specialist shop. I must say I did not have a close look at the images.
He took a big risk when he got that machine, bank loans to a very high level.
I am simply pointing out that your way may not give the expected results.
It is after all your money and your effort...I will not gain or lose anything except my time in this quest.
I am trying to help you make a wood saw with good rigidity, and high repeat accuracy.
Oh, one more thing, his brother has a factory making instrument boxes in wood for a dial and lever gauge maker in Pune, 600 km away.
Those guys are craftsmen, they will feel the wood when they are talking about the job.
One more thing, your project, if it is a one off, could be made from laser cut pieces, done at a specialist shop. I must say I did not have a close look at the images.
Naresh, have you been responding without actually reading the discussion? I did state my aspirations to set up a small cab making workshop at home making small batches of bass amps and soundbars and similar
Eh, I thought the audio folks would be more intelligent about conversation, but just about everything that gets posted on the forums is mostly met with 100 reasons of why one can't rather than one single way how. It's like a pool of mud to wade through
Anyway., enough detraction from the thrust of the project. To the detractors, keep sanding guys, you'll get there eventually
Eh, I thought the audio folks would be more intelligent about conversation, but just about everything that gets posted on the forums is mostly met with 100 reasons of why one can't rather than one single way how. It's like a pool of mud to wade through
Anyway., enough detraction from the thrust of the project. To the detractors, keep sanding guys, you'll get there eventually
Received my refund from Ali and reordered from local stockist on eBay. Hope these guys want to send it. Looking forward to receiving this as tasks are getting held up
I think the most efficient system will be mechanical rather than electronic, and I can't think of anything better than a fence with an adjustable face by 100mm and fence indents every 100mm
The 100mm face adjustment can either be digital veneer caliper based or printed shims blocks that would be accurate to 0.1mm
Can anyone think of a simpler mechanism that is 100% repeatable after every reset? But one that doesn't require spending more than the tool itself or need anything not attached to the tool to set or repeat?
I think the most efficient system will be mechanical rather than electronic, and I can't think of anything better than a fence with an adjustable face by 100mm and fence indents every 100mm
The 100mm face adjustment can either be digital veneer caliper based or printed shims blocks that would be accurate to 0.1mm
Can anyone think of a simpler mechanism that is 100% repeatable after every reset? But one that doesn't require spending more than the tool itself or need anything not attached to the tool to set or repeat?
Look at an Incra fence on a tablesaw. You will easily get 1mm repeatability. https://www.incrementaltools.com/Table_Saw_Fences_s/3.htm
I looked at doing a generic aluminum extrusion frame myself but couldn't match the price/performance ratio. I don't have one on my table saw, except for a side mounted router. Plenty of options for upgrades. You can still use the thumbscrew for precise positioning, but if you stay within the indexed teeth you never have to worry about finding the same exact cut next time ever again.
Also the suggestion to make two cuts is not out of the question. Maybe not for MDF as much but the cut quality on a table saw through lumber is always better taking a little bit off versus a big cut. Often the board will twist in the blade and chatter. The final offcut can be thrown out, and can be pretty thin so there isn't a lot of waste.
Also for the table saw I highly recommend these: https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides
Again for MDF kickback usually isn't much of a problem but these things make sure the stock is firmly against the fence when cutting. And the lack of kickback without needing teeth is a game changer.
I looked at doing a generic aluminum extrusion frame myself but couldn't match the price/performance ratio. I don't have one on my table saw, except for a side mounted router. Plenty of options for upgrades. You can still use the thumbscrew for precise positioning, but if you stay within the indexed teeth you never have to worry about finding the same exact cut next time ever again.
Also the suggestion to make two cuts is not out of the question. Maybe not for MDF as much but the cut quality on a table saw through lumber is always better taking a little bit off versus a big cut. Often the board will twist in the blade and chatter. The final offcut can be thrown out, and can be pretty thin so there isn't a lot of waste.
Also for the table saw I highly recommend these: https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides
Again for MDF kickback usually isn't much of a problem but these things make sure the stock is firmly against the fence when cutting. And the lack of kickback without needing teeth is a game changer.
Noah, keep it coming. The Inca fence is about 5x the price of the tool, but we are already building those levels of accuracy, speed and repeatability with the DIY fence and that will be a fraction of the Incras price
I had a good look at the guide. I have made few table saws to suit different larger projects like boat builds or house furnishing. One of them, I fitted with the largest circular saw that I could find in the second hand shops, an ancient Black and Decker. I am in a position with experience to teach lumber ripping from log to fretboard. Please don't take offence, but this is not really good for ripping, and for all the reasons you say. Planing the stock over two surfaces is the worst with a circular blade if using grained timber. But for home ripping for speakers and instruments and such, a band saw is safer for both the operator and stock
I envision that the fruits of this collab will fit a saw, router and band saw table
I don't have that for the tablesaw, and I have great accuracy and can nail any cut needed to the precision and accuracy that I need and what the wood will allow.
I saw your boat picture, it looks awesome, and I would definitely chose a bandsaw over a table saw for a lot of those parts. But for any sheet goods I almost invariably go to the table saw (or would go to a panel saw if I had one). Most of the work I have done related to speakers involves sheet goods. There are of course many ways to cut and shape just about anything, including wood. From the very automated to the very manual intensive. I was just saying that cutting twice is completely valid, because you criticized that process. I often make a rough cut on sheet goods so I don't have to worry about dinging up the edges, and then a final pass when I am getting close to assembly. Sometimes with a different blade even. But I am usually handling big panels myself and it is just easier and quicker to cut them on a table saw than breaking them down any other way that I have in my toolset.
I saw your boat picture, it looks awesome, and I would definitely chose a bandsaw over a table saw for a lot of those parts. But for any sheet goods I almost invariably go to the table saw (or would go to a panel saw if I had one). Most of the work I have done related to speakers involves sheet goods. There are of course many ways to cut and shape just about anything, including wood. From the very automated to the very manual intensive. I was just saying that cutting twice is completely valid, because you criticized that process. I often make a rough cut on sheet goods so I don't have to worry about dinging up the edges, and then a final pass when I am getting close to assembly. Sometimes with a different blade even. But I am usually handling big panels myself and it is just easier and quicker to cut them on a table saw than breaking them down any other way that I have in my toolset.
Re ripping, I am just more relaxed with a bandsaw for home use
For the past four years, I have been using a 90mm circular saw for panel cutting. It cuts with a clean edge and can follow curves for cutting boat panels in marine ply. Prior to that I fitted a tile cutter inverted under a table again with a 100mm saw blade. Overcutting and fine cutting does come in with funky stock, but I usually struggle to get enough bits out of a board, so even saw blade width can be waste. Lol, I was also born Sept, it just might go against the grain to cut twice
I should point out also that at this stage, the table saw has become even more important for my projects for cutting stock down to CNC size as I will soon be basing most builds on a common template and that has curved back and sides
For the past four years, I have been using a 90mm circular saw for panel cutting. It cuts with a clean edge and can follow curves for cutting boat panels in marine ply. Prior to that I fitted a tile cutter inverted under a table again with a 100mm saw blade. Overcutting and fine cutting does come in with funky stock, but I usually struggle to get enough bits out of a board, so even saw blade width can be waste. Lol, I was also born Sept, it just might go against the grain to cut twice
I should point out also that at this stage, the table saw has become even more important for my projects for cutting stock down to CNC size as I will soon be basing most builds on a common template and that has curved back and sides
One other consideration is non-wood based panels e.g. acrylic, foam, aluminium, steel, brass, hexcel, Bakelite, coosa, tile and similar. These are all audio equipment construction materials. The saw that I ordered has blades available for all these
There are some cyclonic separators on Ali that seem very good value
There are some cyclonic separators on Ali that seem very good value
Another project put aside due to home renovations and new baby. Time to get this one going as it's holding up other projects. The blade attachment has built in arbours for circular saw blades and grinder blades to 110mm. I have got some aluminium and composite cutting discs to change to for my Silver Lady chassis project.
A sliding table-top will be tops for alloy work, so this will be the first mod
A sliding table-top will be tops for alloy work, so this will be the first mod
Lets start this off. Below is the link to the AliExpress item. This is available for cheaper in AU via a local stockist on Ebay. There are other machines in the same price bracket but this lil beauty is modular and can be taken apart and rebuilt to suit ones purpose
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003204591361.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.188338dabbCcB8&mp=1
Another plus with a 4" blade system is the blade price. It is possible to build a good collection of various blade types for a decent price. As I mentioned previously, the machine supports both circular saw and grinder type blades
For the first mod
Turn this into a competent chassis and small speaker cab cutter, working to a new target of 300mm cut length over the stock 80mm
Add an aluminium cutting disc of the grinder type
Order a circular saw blade for aluminium
Add a grinding disc
Mod the grinding disc, add hook and loop to the back, doubles as a table sander
Add a removable mini router using Dremel bits
Add a gantry with a press down drill bit using a DIY system
This is to be the quick prototyping machine to test out some ideas and one off builds and maybe the DIY community can chip in and help turn it into something serious
The following pics firstly show the blades. The cutting disc lists aluminium and the grinding wheel and the Full Boar hook and loop system for that mod. The next pic shows just how modular this machine is. All the parts are standard industrial and there is no fear of being locked into proprietary systems
I'll use thin MDF and some battens to set up a prototype for the targets. Just a simple sliding top and see if the table surface area can support that to do the cutting and cleaning for the Silver Lady chassis, inlays and trims as well as cutting blanks down to CNC work area for the Cub Sandwich heavy-duty mini sub project
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003204591361.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.188338dabbCcB8&mp=1
Another plus with a 4" blade system is the blade price. It is possible to build a good collection of various blade types for a decent price. As I mentioned previously, the machine supports both circular saw and grinder type blades
For the first mod
Turn this into a competent chassis and small speaker cab cutter, working to a new target of 300mm cut length over the stock 80mm
Add an aluminium cutting disc of the grinder type
Order a circular saw blade for aluminium
Add a grinding disc
Mod the grinding disc, add hook and loop to the back, doubles as a table sander
Add a removable mini router using Dremel bits
Add a gantry with a press down drill bit using a DIY system
This is to be the quick prototyping machine to test out some ideas and one off builds and maybe the DIY community can chip in and help turn it into something serious
The following pics firstly show the blades. The cutting disc lists aluminium and the grinding wheel and the Full Boar hook and loop system for that mod. The next pic shows just how modular this machine is. All the parts are standard industrial and there is no fear of being locked into proprietary systems
I'll use thin MDF and some battens to set up a prototype for the targets. Just a simple sliding top and see if the table surface area can support that to do the cutting and cleaning for the Silver Lady chassis, inlays and trims as well as cutting blanks down to CNC work area for the Cub Sandwich heavy-duty mini sub project
First obstacle. I am short on flat sheet material. The largest have that can work is 300mm x 300mm 3mm MDF tiles which gives me a smaller work area but enough for the alloy amp chassis build. But I should be able to implement in a way to allow oversized cutting. If this setup works well, when budget allows, I will replicate in alloy plate. With a simple mod, the machine should be totally stable for sliders, too. Let me work on this and get back with some results