• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Elektor Claus Byrith 4-30

Hopefully the pic will appear now.
 

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I’m no expert, but since no one else has replied, I think you should be OK on distance. That said, the elektor version had some L angle Aluminum that separated the power components away from the amplifier pcb. Your metal plate looks to be a bit short to be able to do that. Only thing to really be wary of now would be where you fit your input sockets and run the signal cables.
 
I don't think you will have any problem - the main thing to get right is a star earth and return the rectifier currents straight back to the transformer. The only other thing is you could end up with a cross coupled ground loop through the input connectors - try and keep the input coax cables away from the mains transformer. It may be better to have the PA boards together rather than the symmetrical layout you have.
 
I had Gerber files generated from the PDFs of the PCB layouts I had, then had PCBs made from them. They came out beautifully.

I'd gladly show you some pics but there doesn't appear to be any means of doing so unless I have an image hosting account, which I don't, now that Photobucket has gone behind a paywall.
 
I had Gerber files generated from the PDFs of the PCB layouts I had, then had PCBs made from them. They came out beautifully.

I'd gladly show you some pics but there doesn't appear to be any means of doing so unless I have an image hosting account, which I don't, now that Photobucket has gone behind a paywall.

You do not need an external host like photoracket. Click "go advanced" in the reply options and then "attach files".

Regards,
 
Yeah. I'm really pleased with them. People talk about "Chinese rubbish". Well they're bloody good at making PCBs, amongst many other things.

I've had the PCBs made for the Elektor Valve Preamp now too. It has a phono stage and tone controls, which I wanted.

Excuse me while I get in my bomb shelter...
 
The layout drawing for this amp includes a 100k log stereo pot to control volume. I don't need this as my preamp will have a volume control. Can anyone see any reason why I can't just omit this altogether, and connect the phono input sockets directly to the PCBs? Circuit diagram also attached for clarity – which makes no mention of said pot.
 

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I've now got this up and running but I have a 50Hz hum problem. My only addition to the circuit is a bistable relay switching board, which I fitted so that I could have a mains switch on the front panel without running 230V AC up to it. Mains comes in through the switched IEC connector, and from there it powers one of these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-240V-to-12V-DC-3W-mini-power-supply-module-UK-Seller/192124063283?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649[/URL]

The power to the amp's PSU is then switched via this little board.

Latching relay board ( with either 1 or 2 pushbutton inputs ) | eBay

Is there any way this arrangement could be causing a 50Hz hum? The hum is there whether anything is connected to the amp's inputs or not, and is equally loud on both channels.
 
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Is it both channels equally? If you short the inputs you can eliminate The source being an external source. Can you simplify the power switch to eliminate that as a source?
How did you do the chassis grounding and amplifier grounding? There are some solutions to ‘lift’ the grounding using diodes or low ohm high watt resistors, which I plan to try in my next build.
 
Both channels equally. I followed this diagram for grounding. I could eliminate the power switch, but I don't want to unless there's a chance it's causing the problem. If it was, what would be the solution to eliminate the hum, while retaining it?
 

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