What did you last repair?

Dunno it it's a repair really, but I built the "Dynaco" 6V6-PP amp a year or so ago on a pcb bought from China. Couldn't get any sound out of it and just stored it away.
Eventually brought it back and swapped the wires going to the feedback and it came to life.
Now, I had attached a small BT-reciever, added a switch to switch between line in and BT and this switch also connects a 3.7V battery to the device.
 
I installed the new PSU board in my speakers that I mentioned here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/and-what-did-we-buy-today.143603/post-7660352

I added some copper braid around the transformer cables too. I was also able to improve the cable routing somewhat and got a significant reduction in PSU noise, now very very low. I have one more cable to screen that goes to the low voltage stuff and I think that might completely fix it.

If it doesn’t, I may need to move the transformer out to a box under the speaker, but hoping I won’t have to do that.
 
An old Toshiba DVD player; the tray refused to open but I could hear action happening inside.

It plays all regions so was worth trying to repair - some DVD and Blu Ray players can't be tweaked to do that.

I removed the top cover and cleaned the mechanism with air in a can, then sprayed electronics cleaner onto the moving bits. Put it back together, and - nothing! Undid all again, did the same thing, then waited an hour and that did the trick.

It now opens and shuts more easily than a politician's mouth.

Geoff
 
In working away on the Mora Clock.
I came across this handwritten label near the mechanism.

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Norwegian or dalmål?

Any Scandi clock experts know what it means?
 
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Norwegian.
"Adjustment of center tap, step<something> lubricated.General service / 75"
Thx. That makes a lot of sense.

The something I'm thinking "upp fogare"
-"step up joint"?
Or something like that.
Not clock language though.
Really hard to see..

Pendulum clocks have top hooks, leaders, suspension springs, rockers.

Interesting: it was in Noway 1975 service.
Then somehow got across to the UK where it currently is.
 
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Electric lawn mower.

Usual failure point on these things in my experience. Switch interlock not working. Everything looked fine when I took it to bits, but the power switch was not operating. But the switch itself buzzed out fine.

Added a shim (aka hot-glued in a trimmed guitar plectrum) and reassembled....

...sorted!


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D@mn, I replaced the lower control arms on the wife's 2016 Volvo S60 this past weekend and didn't take a single pic. Talk about PITA. I spent couple hours on the passenger side Thursday night. I spent about 10 hours on the driver side on Friday. I had to grind down the spacer on both sides to the arm to fit in the car frame. Not paying attention, the d@mn inner CV joint came out of socket. I had to undo the sway bar end link, lower strut bolt, and outer tie rod end to remove the axle from the spindle. Of course, the joint went right back in place after a couple of turns.

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