Bad news for Ripole sub builders :-(

Anyone come across alternatives not mentioned in this thread? I'm considering making two ripoles and I'm willing two spend about 800€ for the drivers, so 200€ each. I can fit 12s but the options seem limited. I would appreciate a fair amount of linear stroke, though I'm not sure how much output ripoles actually have.

SB34SWPL76-3-DV has a QTS of 0.48 and Fs of 27.5Hz which seem nice, but a bit too expensive where it is available. Dayton has the LS12 with Qts around 0.47 and Fs 30Hz and I appreciate the form factor, but not convinced of the linearity (though Test Bench distortion results seem nice). If I went with 10" drivers, the MX10-22 seems reasonable with 0.46 and 32.6Hz and plenty of Klippel verified stroke. There are tons of car subs with specs in similar range but can't be convinced of their linearity or quality otherwise.

Then again, I do have DSP and plan on having a fair amount of amp power so I guess something with lower Qts would be just fine. I'm also curious of getting some GRS HE subs and installing Piratelogic MFB on them - to be honest seems like the best deal, but might be a bit over my head.
 
I am planning a build using the Beyma 12BR70, since the Peerless SLS 12 seem to be dying out. It is more or less based on Jazzman's design but split into two individual Ripol's similar to a build called RiPol 30. I would (for now) build two of them and use them horizontally, which some other discussion on this forum said should work ok. Amp will most likely be the Fosi ZA3.

Regarding the dimensions of the enclosure, the diagram of the Beyma says it measures 126mm from the front to the end of the magnet. Am i correct under the assumption that this is what is referred to as SD? I have modeled the front chamber to be 1/3 of the SD, which is around 4.2cm since 1/4 (which should work given the Xmax < 10mm) seems awfully small. Or would going for 1/4 be better?

Back chamber is made to be just big enough to have the magnet more or less flush with the back wall.

Would greatly appreciate some feedback. Is there any specific reason that the side panel height and width was chosen, other than them being big enough to house the driver?
Area of front chamber opening should be 1/3 to 1/4 of both woofers' (combined) piston area (SD). For woofers having more than 10mm X-max, use 1/3 SD minimum. For woofers with 10mm or less X-max, chamber area can be as small as 1/4 SD.

Area of rear chamber opening should be 1/2 to 1 SD (of a single woofer).

Chamber depth need not be greater than necessary to fit the woofer.
 

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Ok i have found out that my reading comprehension is exceptionally low as the quote even mentions that SD is the piston area and not the magnet dimension. The Beyma has a SD of 540cm^2 according to the data sheet. This would make the front opening of my plan with 4.2cm * 35.4 cm = 148,68 cm^2, with 148.68/540= 0.275 feasible, given that it is within 1/4 and 1/3 of the SD. The back opening is 8.4 cm * 35.4 cm = 297.36 cm^2, which is larger than SD/2 and therefore should also be ok.

The Parts Express sag calculator says it has a sag percentage of 2.5% which is well below the 5% that is considered the limit.
 
Good to know that it should work out even with just the approximate guidelines we have. I have seen your build during my research, really nice!
Interesting finish as well, i think you used sand right?

This speaker looks great doesn't it? Wouldn't this be even better with the higher Xmax than the Beyma?
 
I think the STX would work just as good as the Beyma.
I used PVA glue (Pattex Leim from Action) and sprinkled sand onto the surface via a tea sieve.
Action,TEDI, and Woolworth have different craft sands in bottles for lots of Design variations.

Greetings Klaus
 
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