Car Audio, DIY to a low cost dang fine system the relatively easy way! (other car stuff is welcome as well)

If still in good shape probably a very nice pair of subs for the money. I looked into them just a bit and recall knowing about them but do not believe I ever used any of them. Big motors and cast frames, might be aluminum cone from pics I saw and comments I read seem to say it is a very good SQ sub. Some were comparing to JL which I never liked their "signature sound" as it was not accurate, stating much better SQ, JL louder. I would go with the Eclipse any day over a JL.
 
I had a 1980 mustang and replaced the terrible dash speakers with the radio shack 3" midrange tweeter. I cut off half the monkey box to make it fit. These with 47uf caps and boston 704 fullrange in the doors delivered 500 to 20k pretty flat on the RTA. 4 6.5" Woofers with mids and tweets filled out the lows in the hatch.
A 30v DC to DC Converter powered the amp which was LF353 driving fets running on 44v.
This resulted in 130w into 4 ohms bridged.
I was young and like Tubelab, I gave the op amps tons of voltage which they took for years.
 
If still in good shape probably a very nice pair of subs for the money. I looked into them just a bit and recall knowing about them but do not believe I ever used any of them. Big motors and cast frames, might be aluminum cone from pics I saw and comments I read seem to say it is a very good SQ sub. Some were comparing to JL which I never liked their "signature sound" as it was not accurate, stating much better SQ, JL louder. I would go with the Eclipse any day over a JL.
Yes aluminium cone and tc9 motor
 
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I found some old eclipse sw8122 12" subs on internet, 2 for 150€. Are they good? Internet tells me thay are sq subs. 140g mms 21bl with coils in series and 30+- mm xmax one way. Is that xmax real? :)
Aluminium voicecoil, witch i dont like, but they use very loose suspension to achieve a 27hz fs. I think that helps with sq too and efficiency but the vas is big 90L, again, compensates with a low qts 0.3
Never heard of this but a quick search shows it to be a well built subwoofer driver. Seeing the huge rubber half roll surround, and the size of the magnet and how beefy that frame is, I would believe the 30mm xmax. It might be +/-15mm because 30mm would be 60mm total stroke. I don’t think that surround has that much travel.

The search revealed many blown ones though for $20 as parts or for repair. So seems people drive these beyond the 30mm stroke too often? So be careful that it is still good if buying from eBay or net used.
 
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I am trying to recall who built those for Eclipse, imported parts like most subs even back then, on manf built subs for a lot of brand name companies.

Most blow subs were caused by user error, or stupidity.....more power is better but does not make it louder once you pass what the sub can do, some still think cranking it up beyond that is music, it is distortion and creates a lot more heat thus melting voice coil wire coatings usually.

Search and you may find somebody that knows how to rebuild subs for a decent price if you find blown ones or burn one out yourself.

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If you ever want a cheap but dang fine single din older HU look for the Eclipse 8443, even a bit better the 8053, I used to have a few of each and have own audio comps with them. That was after my main comp systems were sold off to pay for business growth, properly installed, $2k system winning SQ and SQL comps.
 
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I was getting an oil change and saw this on the showroom floor. 300hp 3 cylinder turbo / 6 speed manual / AWD / forged 18in wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport tires. GR Corolla - all for $42k.

Same motor as on GR Yaris but tuned for 64 more hp.

Corollas have gotten expensive but the reviews say this is an altogether different species than a regular econobox Corolla.

IMG_4023.jpeg
 
Looks like a lot of fun:)

I like to mod so would be doing expensive stuff I really should leave alone, if I bought one a number of years back that is, now really mellowing out on driving fast, only like doing so on a track then I like to go all out and then some.

My Fiesta ST would still take it on most tracks, more power and every effectively puts it down and weights around 600lbs less, that is a lot, especially talking percentages.

I have built up quite a few RWD, several FWD and only one AWD which I found to be easy to be fast but boring most of the time, FWD is my favorite because more challenging and they can be DANG fast:)

BUT, it is a Toyota, I kind of love/hate the Fiesta due to Ford doing some dumb penny pinching like inferred temps, selling with know faulty cylinder head and more. If Toyota had build the Fiesta ST it would of been near perfect.

I love hatches and wagons, if into new cars, I would sure take a good look at one, or get the Yaris instead.

Rick
 
Very unfortunate that is though I am past the point in life I would buy one. My Fiesta ST project, approx $50k invested, was my last one planned.
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Not sure I mentioned the Subaru Forester project I did, made quite an impression in Auto Cross and Track Day eveny ts, got a standing ovation at one for beating a tuned Cayman R by 2.5 seconds on a 45 second course:) It still got 28MPG on the highway very comfortably in nice Recaro seats.

Rick
 
Seems like a car thread i can write in with my issues😅

Purchased Nissan Pathfinder R51 Tekna Restyle, needed a 7 seater. First thing my more beatuful half and myself noticed was how bad it's sound system is. Now, i have not a slightest clue in car audio systems, nor have i ever done anything regarding that matter (most cars i owned sounded decent, and i would use earphones on highways). My question for you fine gentleman is, since it's a 7 seater and i wouldn't want to loose precious space (not an option really as kids take those up 😅), is there a way to diy this into a better sounding vehicle?
 
Brijac,
First thing is there what seems to be enough clean bass output? If not it can make a huge improvement in overall sound, check to see what it has for a sub, subs, not, etc....and let us know.
Second look for anyway to tune the stock system, many many now have at least basic EQing built in.
Third, see what you can find about where and how many speakers are installed.
Forth, there are devices to insert into a stock system to extract and manipulate the signal then feed it to better amps, I have never needed to use one but check on DIYmobileaudio.com, a huge amount of experienced help there.
Fifth, start checking on swapping out speakers if needed, some cars come with pretty good ones, many not so great.
Sixth, maybe should be 1st, look for forums for your vehicle, somebody might of sorted this out. Do be careful, most have little clue about what they are talking about.

Let us know as much as you can, maybe we can help but more likely best place is on DIYMA s mentioned above.

Rick
 
Hi RAAM.

I've had a little bit of an update info in the meantime. So my first check engine turned on, wen't to check it out. EGR poofed, not a big deal, should have been disabled/bypassed long ago. But, since garage was my friends we took a little bit of time and checked what was going on. I messed with EQ nearly at purchase, but that wasn't helping, so i knew that wasn't the case. What we found out was original drivers were replaced, door units are in quite a bad shape. So theres that as for why it sounds horrid. There are several things we will be doing going on forward. Android based aftermarket mid panel, better multimedia options, larger screen and actually usable gps. As for drivers, thats where your link will come in handy, or if you have some suggestions as to what to look for (since it's already poofed up like that, i'd hunt for some aftermarket drivers instead of oem). If theres an amp that can take up the same space, will be changed too. Easy to see on the diagram. Much appreciated for info 🤗
 

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