If you change the dimensions, don't guess by just "upping the dimensions."
Do a sim to make sure it will translate to the driver in question.
The TABAQ design is forgiving, to a certain point. You might end up with an unwanted peak, or null, caused by the change in dimensions.
I finally finished another pair of TABAQs the past weekend. I was lucky to get a pair of 3FE25 drivers last year at a very good price locally and decided to build a set of speakers for my daughter and her husband. They stay in a small garden cottage and the TABAQs are a perfect fit for their lounge and TV.
I used 16mm MDF which is overkill, but I had some left-over cuts available. They are finished off with black chalk paint and it came out quite nice. But I am really impressed with how well the grills turned out. They act as smaller baffles that fit over the mounted drivers as if they are flash mounted. Made with 6mm MDF, covered with felt, then with speaker cloth and latches onto the baffle with neodymium magnets. I first did this on my own TABAQ speakers (in the background on the last picture) but these ones turned out a bit better. Practice makes perfect, they say.
I had to reduce the initial amount of stuffing a little and use a BSC with 1mH inductor and 8.2 Ohm resistor for a balanced sound using these drivers. Like all the TABAQs I have built and listened to before, they sound very good, with a nice soundstage and excellent imaging.
I used 16mm MDF which is overkill, but I had some left-over cuts available. They are finished off with black chalk paint and it came out quite nice. But I am really impressed with how well the grills turned out. They act as smaller baffles that fit over the mounted drivers as if they are flash mounted. Made with 6mm MDF, covered with felt, then with speaker cloth and latches onto the baffle with neodymium magnets. I first did this on my own TABAQ speakers (in the background on the last picture) but these ones turned out a bit better. Practice makes perfect, they say.
I had to reduce the initial amount of stuffing a little and use a BSC with 1mH inductor and 8.2 Ohm resistor for a balanced sound using these drivers. Like all the TABAQs I have built and listened to before, they sound very good, with a nice soundstage and excellent imaging.
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Very good job twocents, yes you are right practice practice, anyway enjoy the music, I am still surprise by the sound of my Tabaq with 4FE32 that are belong to my wife, I keep try to convince her I will do a brand new ones with some new drivers but she's very determined, last time she told me " hands off from my Tabaq "
so I can just sometimes listen with her authorisation otherwise divorce....lol....all the best to everyone
I just built my 2nd set (The first set was the wrong size) of the Tabaqs with the MarkAudio CHR-70 and while they sound way better than the first I seem to have a very weird issue.
The sweet spot for sound is BEHIND the speakers in terms of bass. If I stand in between the 2 speakers I can hear a decent amount of bass, but if I stand a few feet behind the speakers I hear way more bass and it doesn't sound as if the sound is coming from behind me. Excellent imaging. The speakers are about 4 feet away from the wall during this test.
But, I am in front of thee speakers, regular equilateral triangle the bass dropps off a cliff at about 5 feet.
What could be the issue?
The sweet spot for sound is BEHIND the speakers in terms of bass. If I stand in between the 2 speakers I can hear a decent amount of bass, but if I stand a few feet behind the speakers I hear way more bass and it doesn't sound as if the sound is coming from behind me. Excellent imaging. The speakers are about 4 feet away from the wall during this test.
But, I am in front of thee speakers, regular equilateral triangle the bass dropps off a cliff at about 5 feet.
What could be the issue?
welcome to the wonderful world of room nodes.
Your room shape and speaker placement will excite lower bass notes in some places, and cancel it in others.
You will need to play with placement of the TABAQs in the room according to your listening position.
Also, consider treating your room with bass traps to lower the risks of nodes that will amplify or cancel the bass around your room.
Your room shape and speaker placement will excite lower bass notes in some places, and cancel it in others.
You will need to play with placement of the TABAQs in the room according to your listening position.
Also, consider treating your room with bass traps to lower the risks of nodes that will amplify or cancel the bass around your room.
The distances from the driver and port to the six room surfaces need to all be different; and have a few common divisors as possible.
The distance from the driver and port to the floor and to the ceiling are fixed/difficult to change, so start with those.
Measure the distances from the woofer and port to the closest wall and the next closest (the wall behind the speakers and their adjacent side walls?) and set them up so they do not have a common divisor to the floor/ceiling distances. I.E. if the woofer is 2' above the floor and 6' from the ceiling, set the speakers so the woofer is 2.5' from the wall behind the speakers and 3.5' from the side walls.
Then depending on the length and width of the room, figure what the distances are from the woofer to the other side wall and the wall behind the listening position. Avoid multiples of 2 or 4 on five of the distances - in other words if the woofer is 2' from the floor, then you should not have any other of the five distances be a multiple of 2, if at all possible - no distance should be 4' or 8'.|
The idea is to have as many different distances as possible; to distribute the standing waves across as many different frequencies as possible. You want to avoid having the distance from the woofer and port to the ceiling be 8' - and a distance from the woofer/port to any of the walls be 16', etc.
The distance from the driver and port to the floor and to the ceiling are fixed/difficult to change, so start with those.
Measure the distances from the woofer and port to the closest wall and the next closest (the wall behind the speakers and their adjacent side walls?) and set them up so they do not have a common divisor to the floor/ceiling distances. I.E. if the woofer is 2' above the floor and 6' from the ceiling, set the speakers so the woofer is 2.5' from the wall behind the speakers and 3.5' from the side walls.
Then depending on the length and width of the room, figure what the distances are from the woofer to the other side wall and the wall behind the listening position. Avoid multiples of 2 or 4 on five of the distances - in other words if the woofer is 2' from the floor, then you should not have any other of the five distances be a multiple of 2, if at all possible - no distance should be 4' or 8'.|
The idea is to have as many different distances as possible; to distribute the standing waves across as many different frequencies as possible. You want to avoid having the distance from the woofer and port to the ceiling be 8' - and a distance from the woofer/port to any of the walls be 16', etc.
Thanks guys and ugh. I knew room nodes/modes could be an issue but that drop is frankly ridiculous. Before I lose my mind I'm going to try the speakers in 2 different rooms and see how they behave.
Thanks again for your replies @perceval and @NeilBlanchard
Thanks again for your replies @perceval and @NeilBlanchard
dafreaking,
Also please check if both the speakers are wired in the correct phase; you can use an AA battery and connect the battery positive terminal to the cable connected to the + terminal of your speaker, and battery negative to the - terminal of the speaker; the speaker cones should push outwards when the circuit is complete.
Also please check if both the speakers are wired in the correct phase; you can use an AA battery and connect the battery positive terminal to the cable connected to the + terminal of your speaker, and battery negative to the - terminal of the speaker; the speaker cones should push outwards when the circuit is complete.
Your ears and and acoustic center of your speakers ideally need to be at the room's h x w x d odd harmonics. Open pipe resonant chart for basic education or search for a 3D room mode calculator.
A small non-scientific update.
Moved the speakers to the bedroom. The wife did not approve. But they sound much much better!
In the room that I intend to use them they sound way better if I'm actually sitting on the lounger (towards the other end of the room). This will be the position from which I'll be watching most of the stuff. So yeah the room is creating havoc
Moved the speakers to the bedroom. The wife did not approve. But they sound much much better!
In the room that I intend to use them they sound way better if I'm actually sitting on the lounger (towards the other end of the room). This will be the position from which I'll be watching most of the stuff. So yeah the room is creating havoc
It’s a dance, between room harmonics, speaker placement we would love versus placement that we have to settle on, seating position we would love versus seating we have, and the whims of the significant other.
My solution was to make a movie room, so we could enjoy movies together, and I could enjoy music during some free time.
I got to install bigger speakers, a projector and surround sound. She enjoyed it. I did too, of course.
Now, the other solution is to have a man cave. Then, it’s party time!
My solution was to make a movie room, so we could enjoy movies together, and I could enjoy music during some free time.
I got to install bigger speakers, a projector and surround sound. She enjoyed it. I did too, of course.
Now, the other solution is to have a man cave. Then, it’s party time!