Thanks for the info!! 👍🏻👍🏻
When I press play the laser emits light. The motor starts rotating but after 1 second, it stops rotating and
a double high frequency sound is heard. something like: WIIII wiiiii
i dont know how to describe this sound.... it is like a music: miiii doooo 😂😂
If I press play again, the same happens: laser moves like trying to read, disc rotates 1s and then stop… and the sound: wiii wiiiii
The lens moves very agitatedly, as if it were anxious to read a disc. I think that if the lens could speak it would say: come on, come on, come on!!!!!! give me more!!!!🤣
I haven't gotten home yet. I'm looking forward to working on the player again.
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I’m changing the last capacitors around the -18v circuit. The voltage regulator is not receiving enough voltage, and the mains transformer is working well.. so the problem is in the capacitors. I bought all the capacitors but two of them are wrong. Tomorrow I’ll come back to the store to buy the correct ones.
Then I’ll try again.
If all the voltages in the PSU are ok but still not reading TOC, then I’ll open the cage to check the other boards. The problem is with this cage. I dont know how to open it.
Well… before opening this cage, I think the best is to check what you said: laser power and focus.
The transformer on the lid is because I'm a V.S.G. (Very Stupid Guy) and I broke the small metal piece that holds the lid on. I managed to rebuild it but I broke it again because I'm a V.S.G:
https://streamable.com/d2bjoh
That's what I broke:
I don't know where can I find a new one. Well, I can repair it but it's better a new one.
https://streamable.com/d2bjoh
That's what I broke:
I don't know where can I find a new one. Well, I can repair it but it's better a new one.
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??
Wahhh... connected to the hifi system and the sound is amazing. Cannot describe it.
The only thing it needs to "repair" is the light bulb. As you can see in first posts, someone soldered a small wire beween two diodes. This "bridge" is not shown in the service manual, so I decided to remove it. The result was a lower light in the bulbs. If I solder again this bridge, light becomes "normal". I think it's a little low....
Maybe someone tried to improve the level of light and added this "bridge".
I think this 2 bulbs can light better without this "bridge". Maybe this bulbs need to be replaced? Where can I buy new ones?
Me neither. I thought that after fixing the power supply voltages, more faults would continue to appear on the decoder board or servo.Well doneI didn't think this one was going to be a runner...
I feel extreme happiness. Right at this very moment I am listening a cd that is not exactly a well-recorded album, but it sounds so good that I feel floating like a cloud.
I feel that this player has a very controlled sound and that it handles any recording errors very precisely and with great care.
I found the bulbs in a store near my home. They are the same bulbs that some motorcycles or bicycles use.
Do you remember this?:
This two diodes are conected to the mains transformer, to the ~18v pins. One diode handles the positive part of rhe wave and the other the negative. Then, every wave goes directly to every bulb.
The correct values for this bulbs has to be 6v 100ma. But for some reason, the bulbs I found in this player was 6,3v 44ma.
AND some genius had the brilliant idea of cutting the ground track of those bulbs, and bridging those two diodes so that both waves (positive and negative) circulate through both bulbs. The grounds of both bulbs were linked to main ground through a resistance of about 40 ohms.
A real bummer.
Obviously I have removed that bridge on the diodes, removed the resistor and rebuilt the ground track. Now the bulbs are lighting in its maximum splendor.
I would like to change the operating mode of the transformer so that it works at 240v instead of 220v. I know it's really the easiest part, but I've always been afraid of transformers, because a small mistake can ruin all the previous work.
Could you give me instructions on how to do it? thank you.
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Nice work . If the spillage was very localised then you have probably got away with it
I would identify a couple of the secondary windings first and desolder all the secondary pins from the board. Make sure they have no electrical contact to the print. Now power the transformer up and measure the off load voltage on the previously identified secondary pins and note them down.
Alter the primary as you think it should be and this time use DBT (dim bulb tester) in the primary. Measure the secondaries again and check they are similar to before. If they are its good to go.
. If the spillage was very localised then you have probably got away with it I would identify a couple of the secondary windings first and desolder all the secondary pins from the board. Make sure they have no electrical contact to the print. Now power the transformer up and measure the off load voltage on the previously identified secondary pins and note them down.
Alter the primary as you think it should be and this time use DBT (dim bulb tester) in the primary. Measure the secondaries again and check they are similar to before. If they are its good to go.
Yes, I read the service manual carefully but I didn't realize that there were instructions to know the 240v terminal.
I followed Mooly instructions and found the correct terminal. After doing all that, I discovered that the service manual did contain the instructions.
Lesson: I have to read better 😂
About the user manual, I didn't found anything on the internet. I can find user manuals of similar players like cd303, but not the cd202. I know that I will not find in that manual any information that I already know, but I like to have the manuals even if it is in pdf format. Does anyone know where I could find it? Thanks.
