Babelfish XA252 / Babelfish XA252 SIT / Babelfish XA252 SET

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nope

just taking any every chance to mock ya having record player and speakers, made where they're made

:clown:

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Well, the Audio Notes are very good sounding, so are the Acoustic Energy and Quads... But I also got Elacs, PSB, ADS and Maggies...

And, with the exception of a single pair of AE1s, for which I paid full price, I never buy anything new....

Besides, Snell was an American Company... so AN sort of has roots in MA... so did ADS.

..

Record Player? You mean the Phillips I grew up with back in the Old Country? It was stereo... you know. My mom bought a record by the Rolling Stones... I took a look at it and thought "Those are the ugliest people I've ever seen!". Our radio was a big tubed Telefunken that tuned in to the Luftwaffe - I swear.

...

Sissy, Macho, Biggvs Dickvs... there we go... MORE POWER..

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Speaking of BA3... got another F4. One is SE, the other is Bal and SE.. has the FE. So, now I got to figure out how to set them up bridged, I believe it was a cable driving both sides of the amp, in SE mode... bridged?

I recall the conversation about this.... before the Sissy and Macho 252 came to be..
 
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Looking at manual ( got them all downloaded )....

SE source:

Mono Parallel Operation- all I need is a simple RCA Y connector and use the RCA inputs. The claim is 100 watts into 2 ohms.

The speaker connection is in parallel; connect the left positive to the right positive. The ground connectors are already to ground.

Balanced source:

Mono Balanced Connection it's a bit more complicated. You can run a balanced preamp output:

"In mono balanced operation, you can achieve 100 watts output into an 8 ohm load. The amplifier is driven by a balanced source, either through the two RCA inputs or the balanced XLR connector. The left channel is presumed to have the positive phase... so the input appears either on the left channel RCA or Pin 2 of the XLR... right channel gets the negative phase input on its RCA or on Pin 3 of the XLR connector.

pin 1 of XLR is ground
pin 2 is positive
pin 3 is negative

The output to the speakers occurs.... the left channel has the positive output, the right channel the negative.. the signal grounds are not connected"


So that's why there's only ONE XLR in the production F4s.
 
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well, ZM being Omni, but mileage saying it's better to be sure that we are on same page, that's why I was asking for clarification

everything is possible, even wooden stove, so........

it happens that I stumbled first on 2SK2145BL and started using them; no reason to change working horse

now, JFE2140 looks as nice part, but somehow my tickatacka is staying calm, until someone point me in direction of good and cheap P channel JFet, whatever casing is

:clown:
 
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damn manuals

who needs them!?!

just taking all the fun of my life

:clown:
That's because you take a negative view of them.... just think

(100) Turn switch F1 to the ON position
(101) Verify Light Indicator K1 is lighted
(150) Turn switch F2 to the OFF position
(151) Verify Light Indicator K1 is delighted


See?

Are you one of them people that gets an Ikea thingie and push forward building it without first taken stock of the parts and then reading the manual before you start? Then three days later you complain that the bookcase is flimsy (*) and your books are all over the place because a 3.0 hit? Pfft...

In the US we have a saying: When life feeds you lemons, make lemonade.

I'm positive that Zardoz made lots of lemonade!

(*) Well, most Ikea stuff is kinda flimsy. I won't buy their chests of drawers... really crappy hardware.

+++

Now for more interesting... 100 watts into 2 ohms... in mono parallel operation... so the voltage is the same... just more current, huh? I will give it a try driving it with my tube preamp which puts out 20Vrms.... but it seems like I will need a balanced preamp to drive them.... the goal is to get 100 w into 4 ohms... which should just drive the Maggies and just about every other sane speaker in the World.

For that, the Iron Pre Balanced won't be enough... so either I put a transformer in there ( I know I got a couple of them 6:1 in a box on the shelf ) or I got the BA3 route.

What if the F4 gets wired balanced as a mono block itself? Will that affect it in the way the F5T's THD spectrum get shifted into 3rd?

Oh... wait... oh well....
 
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So. parallel mode is likely the best option, Maggies are 4 ohms, so the amp should do 50 watts into them and have all the current to keep up the power going into them.

My concern is that I'll make that set up, get 100 watts into 8 ohms out of a pair of F4s and then the sound will be so lean I will be forced to drive them with my tube amp.

Hmm.. hey... what if I drove an ARC D70-II via a transformer -to make a balanced signal- as input into the a pair of F4s?

Hmm.... what if Alek ever publishes the 100 wpc Biggvs Dickvs SIT with gobs of negative 2nd order harmonic?

You know that Zardoz will only have a Biggvs Dickvs SIT amp, you know... Quien es mas macho? Sissy, Macho o Biggvs Dickvs?
 
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Here it is, displacing BA3 for the moment.

I missed that picture.

IMHO, any stereo system that has a variac, a couple of DMMs, and some boxes with cables with dubious purposes around... well, it rates a 9 out of 10.

To get a ten, you need a more complicated set up... either have a dedicated DMM on the Variac or.. a Variac with built in lights and meter. If that's a digital meter, well, it's 9.5 out of 10.

If it's one of them old fashion, Ming Of Mars gizmos, with an analog meter...well, then you got yourself an ten.

Add an HP lab supply to the mix and then you get ELEVEN.

...

My setup up, festooned with a Plethora of Amps, three racks of components, power supplies, etc.. well, it only rates 8 out of 10. I moved all the cables behind the racks and there's no Variac...

...

Now, question.... how does it sound?

I'm suddenly in need of a balanced BA3 FE to drive the F4s. I think that will do it... 35V output?
 
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