What would be "the best" choice..... or, what would be a good choice as a PSU for the GlassWare Aikido ACF 9-pin Buffer,
Found Here: Aikido Cathode Follower PCB
and what would be the reasoning behind the choice??
TIA
Greg
Found Here: Aikido Cathode Follower PCB
and what would be the reasoning behind the choice??
TIA
Greg
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Several other Broskie projects but not the ACF. Sometimes his boards can be confusing because they offer multiple configurations. Just take your time.
Regulated B+ is probably the way to go.
Have you bought some 6DJ8s yet? JJs sound kind of like Amperex Holland bugle boys to me. NOS Teslas sort of like Mullard Blackburn ring getters, not as refined as bugle boys, a bit more romp and stomp. You can pick up NOS Teslas for as low as $20 each if you shop around. Though a lot more $ the Genelex reissue (Russian) E88CCs sound quite nice. Just my 2 cents.
Cheers, Steve
Regulated B+ is probably the way to go.
Have you bought some 6DJ8s yet? JJs sound kind of like Amperex Holland bugle boys to me. NOS Teslas sort of like Mullard Blackburn ring getters, not as refined as bugle boys, a bit more romp and stomp. You can pick up NOS Teslas for as low as $20 each if you shop around. Though a lot more $ the Genelex reissue (Russian) E88CCs sound quite nice. Just my 2 cents.
Cheers, Steve
Steve...
Thanks so much for your help and tube recommendations!!!
So you think his own PS1 is the way to go? I was wondering about offerings from elsewhere... though I have no clue what those might be....
Confusing yes.... even though the doco is very clear..
I will indeed take it slow... choices do tend to make me confused...
Nice to have those choices, but it makes something already challenging for me, that much more daunting..
I did in fact get a set of JJs! No testing/matching or the like.. just the cheapest I could find to get up and running with..
Rather not risk $$$ tubes to my (likely) mistakes....
Will also give me the chance to get used to the sound overall, then roll to experience those differences you mentioned!
Great knowledge about the various tube's sound!!! Reallly appreciated....
I had no idea that there are still NOS Teslas around for cheap! I just assumed they meant JJ's whenever I saw some....
Oh... that reminds me.... have you had any luck with JAN tubes?
Thanks again!
Greg
Thanks so much for your help and tube recommendations!!!
So you think his own PS1 is the way to go? I was wondering about offerings from elsewhere... though I have no clue what those might be....
Confusing yes.... even though the doco is very clear..
I will indeed take it slow... choices do tend to make me confused...
Nice to have those choices, but it makes something already challenging for me, that much more daunting..
I did in fact get a set of JJs! No testing/matching or the like.. just the cheapest I could find to get up and running with..
Rather not risk $$$ tubes to my (likely) mistakes....
Will also give me the chance to get used to the sound overall, then roll
to experience those differences you mentioned!Great knowledge about the various tube's sound!!! Reallly appreciated....
I had no idea that there are still NOS Teslas around for cheap! I just assumed they meant JJ's whenever I saw some....
Oh... that reminds me.... have you had any luck with JAN tubes?
Thanks again!
Greg
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I think the PS-1 would be a good match for the ACF. Everything for a ps except the power switch and the two power trans are on the board. For transformers the Triads from Mouser are decent and not too pricey at $17 each, p/n 553-VPT12-2080 and 553-VPT230-110. If you want stepped turn-on (filaments first then B+) the Broskie Switch-AC, power switch is a possibility. New AC Selector Switch I generally put one trans at either end of the PS board to minimise magnetic interference.
The US JAN Phillips 6922 tubes have always sounded nasty to me. NOS Amperex 6922s are big $ and are too much in-your-face for my tastes.
Partsconnexion often has Tesla ECC88s on sale for around $20 each.
Cheers, Steve
The US JAN Phillips 6922 tubes have always sounded nasty to me. NOS Amperex 6922s are big $ and are too much in-your-face for my tastes.
Partsconnexion often has Tesla ECC88s on sale for around $20 each.
Cheers, Steve
Great tip on the Teslas... gonna go see now..
Tubedepot has Sylvania JAN version for... I think... about ten USD more... any experience with those?
I have a few Amperex 6922 but I don't know if they're any good anymore... glad to know your experience with them...
I have the power switch... along with a couple of other handy gadgets... including the selector switch..
Seems a good idea.... gotta have a switch... might as well be that.
How long do you suggest before switching on the B+? Like maybe count to ten?
Now that it's come up... I was looking at these transformers:
AS-1T150 - 100VA 150V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
100VA because in my project it will power 2 ACF/PSU boards.
The 50VA version is here:
AS-05T160 - 50VA 160V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
What do you think of those?
Tubedepot has Sylvania JAN version for... I think... about ten USD more... any experience with those?
I have a few Amperex 6922 but I don't know if they're any good anymore... glad to know your experience with them...
I have the power switch... along with a couple of other handy gadgets... including the selector switch..
Seems a good idea.... gotta have a switch... might as well be that.
How long do you suggest before switching on the B+? Like maybe count to ten?
Now that it's come up... I was looking at these transformers:
AS-1T150 - 100VA 150V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
100VA because in my project it will power 2 ACF/PSU boards.
The 50VA version is here:
AS-05T160 - 50VA 160V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
What do you think of those?
The JAN Philips/Sylvania have the same internal construction and I believe were all built in the same place, so same sound. Not really to my liking but YMMV. There are better sounding options IMO that cost the same or less.
The Broskie switches (AC, input select) come with little boards that make them more straight forward to connect so less chance of error. Give the filaments 20 to 60 seconds before applying B+.
The 50VA Antek should be fine even for two ACF boards and it has a tap on the HV coil that might be handy to optimize it to your B+ supply.
What B+ voltage is the ACF board expecting when using 6DJ8s?
Steve
I'll send a PM with other info.
The Broskie switches (AC, input select) come with little boards that make them more straight forward to connect so less chance of error. Give the filaments 20 to 60 seconds before applying B+.
The 50VA Antek should be fine even for two ACF boards and it has a tap on the HV coil that might be handy to optimize it to your B+ supply.
What B+ voltage is the ACF board expecting when using 6DJ8s?
Steve
I'll send a PM with other info.
I use one of these: 12V 5A 60W Power Supply AC to DC Adapter for 5050 3528 Flexible LED Strip Light | eBay
to power the heaters and this DC-DC boost converter for the high voltage: 150W DC-AC Inverter Boost Board Transformer 12V to 110V 200V 220V 280V Converter | eBay
Quick and easy.
to power the heaters and this DC-DC boost converter for the high voltage: 150W DC-AC Inverter Boost Board Transformer 12V to 110V 200V 220V 280V Converter | eBay
Quick and easy.
That's great to know! I assumed that they're different... and given how many seem to prefer sylvania (JAN and non-JAN) combined with the fact they cost more... seemed to confirm that.
So that's great to know...
Also great to know that there's still something better sounding that's affordable!
You've surmised my motivation for looking at the JANs...
Yes... that's the reason I got his selector switch.....
I actually have a nice Graycliff for it, but it's complex to figure out how to wire up..
I figure I'll just get it done with the board/switch, then swap in the Graycliff later on when there's not so much else to do. Maybe I won't even bother..
There's so much to do and so many challenges with a scratch DIY build.. and this is my first.. (as opposed to a vintage unit rebuild/mod and turntables/speakers of which I've done many)
OK then... 20-60 seconds it is! Thanks...
Great! Thanks! That's what I needed to know....
It will in fact be for 2 ACF boards... I was concerned about the heater draw with 2..
Incidentally, the essence of the project is the 2 ACF boards with a Tribute AVC in between them..
Sort of... one ACF driving the AVC, the second driving the (long in my case) interconnects and amp.
Some might say.. well isn't that redundant?
Maybe... but I think not... Considering the huge impedance variance (but low DCR) of the AVC it doesn't seem imprudent.
Besides... 2 tubes (per channel) in a line-stage doesn't seem excessive to me.
There's also the dilemma of where to put the attenuator.... before the active circuit or after..
In the Docs, Broskie suggests before.... but that's for a carbon pot.
Anyway, that's the essence of my project..
I don't know how to determine what a board is expecting?
In my (extremely brief) email contact with him, he mentioned 150V...
The docs seem to suggest 200V..
Determining tube operating points is beyond my ability.... but I've come to understand that the useful range is between 100 and 250V for 6DJ8s... less than that and sonics deteriorate.. more and tube life suffers for little or no advantage..
150V does seem like a good compromise..... especially since we're not striving for max gain.
Honestly though.. I'd be very grateful for (informed) suggestions and guidance!!!
Those trafos output around that, which is why I was looking at them...
Plz feel free to straighten me out if I'm wrong!
(hopefully gently though... lol...)
Anywhere in the 150 to 200 volt range should be good. I used about 160 volts on an Aikido line stage built around all 6DJ8s. If you use Broskies PS-1 supply the voltage is set by selecting a resistor from among the ones supplied with the kit. If you use the 50 VA Antek you suggest the 140 volt tap should be good for a DC output from the PS-1 in the 150 volt range, the 160 volt tap good for something around 200 volts.
Steve
Steve
That is JUST what I wanted to know!!!
Thanks again...
Will the current rating on the filament windings on that transformer be adequate, do you think?
Also, what do you think about this PSU?
electronic and product design | alpha2delta Design | Berkshire
More later...
Thanks again...
Will the current rating on the filament windings on that transformer be adequate, do you think?
Also, what do you think about this PSU?
electronic and product design | alpha2delta Design | Berkshire
More later...
I think the PS you linked to has too high an output voltage for your circuit, but I only took a quick look. The Broskie PS-1 can be adjusted for any voltage you wish. When choosing a power trans you want the AC current rating to be at least about 2X the regulated DC current you will be drawing. For filaments, I'd wire the tubes in series on each board so a 12 volt supply. Two 6DJ8 in series = ~0.4 amp X2 (both boards) = 0.8 amps. So AC = ~1.5 amps at 12 volts. For B+ each tube will probably draw 15mA max = 60 mA. So a power trans with 120 mA min. is what you want. Have a look at the Antek specs. I think it will be OK, haven't looked recently but IIRC it's fine.
Steve
Steve
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