About midrange driver choice in a 3-ways speaker

The 5MR450NDY is a great driver. So is the 6MR500NDY. They both sound very good, however they also tend to need higher crossover points despite being cone drivers. I wouldn't run the 5MR450 down lower than 350-400 2nd order. The 6MR500 does well down to 275-300 LR2 in a small chamber (this is what limits the low mid capability). Both drivers have huge VCs with decent xmax for their size, making power handling a non-issue and can be considered almost full range drivers.
 
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I think the main attraction of a 3" dome mid compared to a 4" cone is that the cone driver will typically have a sensitivity of 85 - 89 db/2.83V, whereas the dome will have a sensitivity of 92 - 96 dB/2.83V.
The PRV 5MR450NDY midrange is almost a fullrange driver, and I have used it as such, and it is 95dB sensitive - which is nice. I actually needed that as my 3-way ended up near 92dB overall sensitivity.
 
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good morning
I would like to sincerely thank you all for your very kind and precious advice.
On the basis of all comments I have come to the conclusion that (speaking of a 3 way speaker) there is really no precise optimal crossing point between woofer and midrange. As an evidence of this I was also looking at a series of high-end 3-way professional monitors and actually the top of the line products sport either cone midranges or dome midranges depending on the brand and model (I am pretty sure they are at least very good all)
Too bad I have to honestly say that I like it when there is only one truth. The fact that several truths are true makes me umcomfortable
Thanks again to everyone and have a good day Gino
 
It’s not a matter of one or several truth, it’s a matter of which compromises you can live with. The perfect loudspeaker does not exist. Any design has it’s pro’s and cons, some better systems are just a bit less compromised than others but they will never be free of compromises. Pick your poison, figure out what you are trying to achieve and then figure out what sacrifices you are willing to make in size, room placement, looks, price etc etc
 
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This is a very interesting thread, but I have the strong feeling the thread starter has never constructed any x-over or speaker before. For starting a new live as a loudspeaker designer, a 3-way may be a little to ambitious. Is there anyone to disagree?
Hi your feeling is right I have just changed parts same value in some speakers i had For instance i experienced the benefit of using plastic cap instead of electrolytics. And you are clearly right ... a 3 way is much more complex than a 2 way and a 2 way is much more complex than a wideband without any xover at all
I read a rule but i do not know how right is ... to cover all the audio band with conventional drivers (i.e. cones and domes) 4 way is a minimum
If this is true a 3 way would a sort of compromise
Ginetto, I'm not sure you understood that without a perfect x-over even the best chassis in the world will sound like crap?
The problem is not to find the perfect chassis, the problem is to make them work together, electically and acoustically.
Do you know an x-over is not simply calculated? Have you realized a passive 3-way x-over will easily need parts worth a few hundred US$? Some times more than the rest of the loudspeaker chassis?

People that design speakers and x-overs usually have drawers full of parts to try, which cost a small fortune. Second they have measuring tools. Last, they have learned this art over years by studying or hard work of try and error. Often both.
Speaker designer is a very special, rare talent, in company with enormous knowledge of theories.
Having a friend who can make boxes from wood is nice, but not the base for a loudspeaker development.

One of the worst ways to start are some old chassis with unknown data, picked from old speakers, OEM chassis may look similar to openly available units, but just one or two letters or numbers, at the end of it's name, may make it a very different part. Even if you find data, the speaker may be worn out, ferro fluid gone solid etc. and not to spec.

So, question you self: Can I measure? Can I construct an x-over? Do I have the funds to buy expensive parts of which most are not used in the end?
If there is a "no" in your answers, abandon the idea and get a well made kit and let your wood friend build the cabinet exactly as described in the plan. Exactly! There are various well made kits at any price point.
I know what you think: " I have dug out some (once, two to three decades ago!) high end name parts and can build something fantastic around them by using other parts from the trash bin for free"
I can promise that you will not save money, using the chassis you have, but loose a lot. You can re-use some coils and resistors, maybe some film capacitors too.

What you do not want to realize: Constructing a 3-way is many times more complicated than a 2-way.

If you want to go this way of DIYS as a bloody beginner, the combination of a well made 2-way speaker kit and a sub woofer build into the extended cabinet, active crossed low (100-200 Hz, depending on x-over) would be the best idea. This may be worth the effort and money.
A sub woofer can be calculated and simulated with a 95% chance of working well, a single x-over controlled with some luck.

If you ask for the best advice: Do not build anything now. Get a measuring microphone and learn how to use a software with it. Play with your speaker components to get a first idea. A laptop and REW or ARTA are a good start, even without a special measuring mike.
You can start right now, even without spending a single Cent. Just down load the software.

Even if you finally realize, a build is out of your reach, measuring will improve the setup in your room in any case. With your ears you may realize something sounds bad, by measuring you can find out what sounds ugly and correct it. So in any case, no time wasted.

Good luck!
Thank you very much indeed for your kind and very precious advice. I was clearly underestimating the difficulty of the task of designing a 3 way
But i had a weird idea ... to make actually a sort of 2 way plus tweeter That means to select a midrange that can be used just with a high pass filter and not the low pass filter circuit and complete the range with a tweeter with another high pass filter I do not know if you see what i mean
Even simpler ... i know of speakers where midranges even work without filter ! (like some models from EgglestonWorks, Epos. etc.)
I was focusing the cabinet because i was completely shocked by hearing how much some slabs of lead glued to the internal sides of a speaker influenced the sound The speakers have a big problem in the woofer not fit for the task ... but i have never experienced a more dramatic improvement at least listening a pipe organ track I cannot even image what would it be with a very good woofer The original in comparison was a joke
Unfortunately lead is toxic ... but it was a night and day change really ( I have to live with lead i am afraid What a material )
One thing is sure ... only cone midranges can be used without crossoves at all Dome mids need at least a high pass filter ... nothing impossible to do at all Maybe just a cap would be too little ... a 6dB filter i mean
But message received strong and clear ... start from the xover and drivers .... and end with cabinet
 
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This is just my take on it - some ideas may be different from how “traditional 3 ways”are designed but that’s why DIY is so fun. We can try different things.

I look at the response curves and choose the low pass of the driver to coincide with its natural falloff if possible.
Hi ! very interesting. Let me ramble a bit ... fwiu and inductor works opposing to a change in flowing current And it is usually present where it can do the most harm i.e. in series with the woofer Crazy isnt it ? and so designers use huge and extremely expensive coils to avoid the negative effects
I wonder if there is a woofer that can be used with just a parallel filter ... i.e. without the series inductor and using it natural roll-off
That would simplify the work enormously
After it the midrange can take on the job

..... Speaker looks like this: ....

View attachment 1113669

I think it sounds pretty great. The bass chest punch is fantastic because the woofers are allowed to cover the 120Hz to 300Hz region. The imaging sounds like a fullrange speaker because a full decade is used by the mid. The highs sparkle and full of air and light without fatigue with the planar. And because it is a dipole, the ambience is very natural. Have a listen here.
wow ... this is very very beautiful I would only separate the mid high section baffle from the woofer baffle ... to decouple the bass box from the mid highs
Imho the satellite plus sub can provide interesting benefits A great bass speaker is a very challenging design ... for both driver and cabinet
Once the 200 Hz part is done right the remaining part is less difficult ... i am quite sure of this And for this i am looking more to cone midranges
I would dedicate to the woofer only the very bass
Very nice speaker indeed Very nice
 
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A cheap observation from my brother-in-law: Full range drivers make excellent mid-rangers.

:snail:
Good morning Mr Pass Thank you so much for your kind and very valuable advice. And a very intriguing idea.
Then again ... which kind of full-range ? they come from 8" to 3" And they cover clearly different bands and with different undistorted SPLs
And while cone midranges can be found quite cheap i understand that really good full range are very very expensive
I was even thinking to some guitar speakers ... unfortunately they have a not flat response But they could cover easily from lets say 100 Hz to 3kHz
It's the good part of the audio range The most critical i guess Maybe with some EQ to flatten them ,,,, i do not know
 
Good morning Mr Pass Thank you so much for your kind and very valuable advice. And a very intriguing idea.
Then again ... which kind of full-range ? they come from 8" to 3" And they cover clearly different bands and with different undistorted SPLs
And while cone midranges can be found quite cheap i understand that really good full range are very very expensive
I was even thinking to some guitar speakers ... unfortunately they have a not flat response But they could cover easily from lets say 100 Hz to 3kHz
It's the good part of the audio range The most critical i guess Maybe with some EQ to flatten them ,,,, i do not know

Good morning Mr Pass Thank you so much for your kind and very valuable advice. And a very intriguing idea.
Then again ... which kind of full-range ? they come from 8" to 3" And they cover clearly different bands and with different undistorted SPLs
And while cone midranges can be found quite cheap i understand that really good full range are very very expensive
I was even thinking to some guitar speakers ... unfortunately they have a not flat response But they could cover easily from lets say 100 Hz to 3kHz
It's the good part of the audio range The most critical i guess Maybe with some EQ to flatten them ,,,, i do not know
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/ScanSpeak-3W-Discovery.htm#The_Sound 10F
take a look at troels works
 
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It’s not a matter of one or several truth, it’s a matter of which compromises you can live with. The perfect loudspeaker does not exist. Any design has it’s pro’s and cons, some better systems are just a bit less compromised than others but they will never be free of compromises. Pick your poison, figure out what you are trying to achieve and then figure out what sacrifices you are willing to make in size, room placement, looks, price etc etc
Hi thanks for the kind reply I understand know that i was focusing not the main issues. On the basis of the advice and considering that in the end the drivers make most of the sound i should probably try to know more about the drivers characteristics Maybe i have been misleading from an old latin proverb .... in medio stat virtus Literally, “in the middle there is virtue”. So i was thinking ... if i can get the midrange right the other parts (low and high) will follow
I have two desires ... a great reproduction of voices and a great 3D soundstage Unfortunately in any case the crossing between the woofer and the midrange follows exactly inside the voice range Unless i use maybe a wideband midrange ? that could be an option
The coeherence in sound that can come from a same driver is unbeatable
 
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Hi thank you very much for the link. I see 700Hz crossing point I was thinking to another point I understand that the tone of a cone driver is influenced by the material of which the cone is made So maybe if the woofer and the midrange are made from the same material the overall tone is more uniform ?
i see that the project you mention use cones made both from fibre glass Good Another point to consider Thanks a lot
 
Here's another design you might be interested in, using the Volt midrange dome (closest option to the ATC dome that one can still buy) + Scanspeak Revelator Ring Radiator, the Open Source Monkey Box. It should compete with the JBLs you liked for bass, Quite a lot more expensive than Troels' Discovery 3WC.

http://github.com/mbrennwa/osmcdoc/raw/master/osmc_paper.pdf
:) just this morning I start thinking a cheaper OSM like a discovery 26w. D7608/920010 drome and d2010
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SP38.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-7MD.htm
 
It would be very different. The SS is not wave guided like the Volt and 800 hz seems the lowest limit. But why not with the Monacor clean D25N as tweeter above the SS.
I write cheaper cannot be the same ,the 26w goes up very well to 800 not problem here, I lived 56year without waveguide......d2010 sound so gooood ,for Nelson class A amp max 25w
btw I using Acamini 5w this days, so powerfull !!
 
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A WG should not be expensive... I found this 2010 tweetsr lacks a little details and high ends in the Proac D15, but it makes it sorta realistic as more near to live than studio sound because this low resolution (a little like a polymer driver)... For the price though there should be a lot better nowadays.
 
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