My first set of floor standing speakers. Ignore the guinea pig cage, it is time for its cleaning. Using a pair of Tang Band W5-1611SAF 5" Full Range Speaker each. Hindsight being 20-20 I know I made some design errors but it doesn't seem to have affected the sound any. Cut out for the speakers was much better using circle jig and razor to cut the veneer. What do you all think about the way they look. Total of 16 ohms each. Random question, is there anyway to re balance the speakers to 8 ohms using resistors? Either way I'm happy with what I've made so far.
Suggest try adding small whizzer to on-axis driver cone and deflector to off-axis driver phase-plug. (Automotive "plast" tape is light, stretchy, stiff, and easily peeled off i.e. reversible.)
I'm listening right now to a stacked combo dubbed micor55, the drivers being complementary in sound (and share identical baskets etc.) -- somewhat bowl- and dome-shaped frequency response respectively. I used to simply stack them both in piano-black but this iteration mounted the Correct 5 in a subwoofer tower firing up, 360deg (like adason said), with the Michael 5 above slightly tilted and offset. Connected in series to favor 8ohm bottom vs 4ohm top. The cabs have inserted dividers: (upper) tapered TL and (lower) ML-TQWT of sorts. They sound... near perfect.
I'm listening right now to a stacked combo dubbed micor55, the drivers being complementary in sound (and share identical baskets etc.) -- somewhat bowl- and dome-shaped frequency response respectively. I used to simply stack them both in piano-black but this iteration mounted the Correct 5 in a subwoofer tower firing up, 360deg (like adason said), with the Michael 5 above slightly tilted and offset. Connected in series to favor 8ohm bottom vs 4ohm top. The cabs have inserted dividers: (upper) tapered TL and (lower) ML-TQWT of sorts. They sound... near perfect.
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You really don't need to run the two drivers in series for 16 ohms...by running them in parallel you're getting them at four ohms...pretty much every single amplifier can deal with a four ohm load & you'll be utilizing more power this way.
Resist the urge to build notch filters to address issues here & there...let them run "unadulterated" along the signal path...remember, any of that you introduce in the path will give you phase-shifts & that will mess up that "purity" of that thing called Fullrange.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
Resist the urge to build notch filters to address issues here & there...let them run "unadulterated" along the signal path...remember, any of that you introduce in the path will give you phase-shifts & that will mess up that "purity" of that thing called Fullrange.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
Drivers that large spaced that far apart will be combing at higher frequencies, here are dial FR driver wiring options.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/Dual-Driver-Wiring.pdf
Given the shape of the box you have an ML-TL, you cannot model it as a reflex.
dave
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/Dual-Driver-Wiring.pdf
Given the shape of the box you have an ML-TL, you cannot model it as a reflex.
dave
You’ve got some really bad issues with these two FR drivers sharing that same response range……you need to fix that first.
A quick but huge improvement would be to wire them in parallel and add a 3.3mh air core inductor between them for the bottom woofer…….this will low pass the bottom woofer 1st order and add a little resistance to the system for a load pretty much easily driven by any amp worth using.
For around $50 and a few minutes of wiring, the improvement would be exponential over what you have now.
A quick but huge improvement would be to wire them in parallel and add a 3.3mh air core inductor between them for the bottom woofer…….this will low pass the bottom woofer 1st order and add a little resistance to the system for a load pretty much easily driven by any amp worth using.
For around $50 and a few minutes of wiring, the improvement would be exponential over what you have now.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/Dual-Driver-Wiring.pdf
Inductor goes on one of the woofers, given parallel wiring there is no between.
dave
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm obviously new to making speakers and despite having read some books on cabinet design I'm not good at the lingo of the audiophile. Also despite my enjoyment of high quality audio I have tinnitus from my time in the military so I'm a proponent of don't pay for more than you can hear.
These speakers with the center channel I made sound so much better than the soundbar I used to have there. So I'm mostly happy. I'd like to wire the speakers so they are 4 ohms instead of 16 but my sony DH-550 receiver specs claim to only go down to 6 ohm. I've looked at other used receivers but am hard pressed to want to spend the money to replace what is currently working. I am building a stereo amplifier that goes down to 4 ohms, nothing special following a youtube video just waiting for a part to finish.
I feel like a lot of the system is being carried by the center channel ribbon tweeter, Beston RT002A Ribbon Tweeter 6 Ohm, with the pair of Tang Band W3-881SJ 3" playing back up due to having to have them wired up to 16 ohms. I have the cross over set at 2500Hz using airgap inductor and decent capacitors. But isn't that the point of the center channel?
The sound front seems unified for me with decent left right distinction when playing games and music. I haven't been able to play music at a decent volume but it all seems fine to me. I feel like I could be getting more out of the floor standing speakers but in the surround sound system I'm building I do not want them to take over, I'll see when I get the standalone stereo amp working how they sound independently of the rest of the system.
The two smaller side speakers are the first speakers I built which I think sound pretty good also but again I've never owned or messed with 'nice' speakers so it doesn't take a lot to impress me sound-wise.
Again I appreciate all the feedback and information, it helps me learn. Unfortunately I do not have the space or money to build an endless supply of speakers, despite how much fun building these has been. I am currently build one set of smaller floor standing surround speakers using the same 3" tang bands and in the below pictures. I am thinking about building a sub-woofer just to finish the set but to do a decent job it looks to be around $700 to build what I want so I am holding off on that for the time being. That would be the speaker, back plate, passive speakers, I want to make it passive speaker system, why because I think it would look cool, & the MDF to build.
Thanks
JAG
These speakers with the center channel I made sound so much better than the soundbar I used to have there. So I'm mostly happy. I'd like to wire the speakers so they are 4 ohms instead of 16 but my sony DH-550 receiver specs claim to only go down to 6 ohm. I've looked at other used receivers but am hard pressed to want to spend the money to replace what is currently working. I am building a stereo amplifier that goes down to 4 ohms, nothing special following a youtube video just waiting for a part to finish.
I feel like a lot of the system is being carried by the center channel ribbon tweeter, Beston RT002A Ribbon Tweeter 6 Ohm, with the pair of Tang Band W3-881SJ 3" playing back up due to having to have them wired up to 16 ohms. I have the cross over set at 2500Hz using airgap inductor and decent capacitors. But isn't that the point of the center channel?
The sound front seems unified for me with decent left right distinction when playing games and music. I haven't been able to play music at a decent volume but it all seems fine to me. I feel like I could be getting more out of the floor standing speakers but in the surround sound system I'm building I do not want them to take over, I'll see when I get the standalone stereo amp working how they sound independently of the rest of the system.
The two smaller side speakers are the first speakers I built which I think sound pretty good also but again I've never owned or messed with 'nice' speakers so it doesn't take a lot to impress me sound-wise.
Again I appreciate all the feedback and information, it helps me learn. Unfortunately I do not have the space or money to build an endless supply of speakers, despite how much fun building these has been. I am currently build one set of smaller floor standing surround speakers using the same 3" tang bands and in the below pictures. I am thinking about building a sub-woofer just to finish the set but to do a decent job it looks to be around $700 to build what I want so I am holding off on that for the time being. That would be the speaker, back plate, passive speakers, I want to make it passive speaker system, why because I think it would look cool, & the MDF to build.
Thanks
JAG