Big Thank You Rayna and Marcel. Got it sorted now. Don't know what I was thinking on the output side. Or that black wire antenna!
This is why my last amplifier build was back in 2015. I no longer can be trusted with high voltage but I thought, "I know, I'll use up those old dusty woofers and what's in the parts bin, how hard could it be?"
Gonna listen to these while I'm waiting for my Ticket To Ride.
This is why my last amplifier build was back in 2015. I no longer can be trusted with high voltage but I thought, "I know, I'll use up those old dusty woofers and what's in the parts bin, how hard could it be?"
Gonna listen to these while I'm waiting for my Ticket To Ride.
That should work. 4th order LR is a really good way to go. To take it to the next level, you might want to load that design into a crossover design program like Xsim, Boxsim or Vituix CAD. You may find that the impedance variation with frequency of the woofer and tweeter will play around with the phase and rolloff of those filters. Adding a few more components to get the impedance of each driver to be flat through the crossover region might get you some improvement. Of course doing that takes a lot of time to make measurements of the individual driver impedance and acoustic output and learn the software. So if it sounds good as is, rock on.
The final few furlongs are always the hardest but I got one speaker done and bumped downstairs on the 2 wheeler. Hooked it up to my cheapo Bluetooth rig and, playing off my phone, it sounds darn good. I knew the SB-29 tweeter was quite efficient but the channel balance when paired with the very efficient 4 Pi Pro had voices pretty much in the middle. The big Utah must be in the low to mid-90s.
Tomorrow I'll close up the other box, wrangle it downstairs (Baltic Birch is HEAVY) and have a real listen.
Tomorrow I'll close up the other box, wrangle it downstairs (Baltic Birch is HEAVY) and have a real listen.