VRDN: bipolar regulator PCB for line level ckts: ±11V to ±20V @ 1.5A with "De-Noiser"

Mark Johnson said:
I see an advantage in using 2 oz (70 microns thick) copper compared to 1 oz (35 microns thick) copper. Even on not-exactly-super regulator PCBs like VRDN. So I pay extra for 2 oz and I pay extra again for ENIG.

Hi Mark,

It is implied from your post that you used, in your VRDN PCBs, 2 oz for the outer layers.
But, could you specify whether you used 0.5 oz or 1 oz for the inner layers?

Thanks.
 
Im in NJ , USA. Im thinking about ordering some of these. Please understand that I haven't a clue what I'm doing. I can already see the choices are pretty easy if your sensible about spending. It looks like it would cost $110 to get 20 of them to my door. I'd just keep a few and divide the shipping and price. Might just ask buyer to donate to St. Judes. I'd send flate rate USPS or some other economical way. Is there any interest. If I can get even a few takers I'll just do it.

So far I come up with the following

Does it look right? I've never done this and just want a few boards.
 

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I was soldering diyaudio store projects a good part of this weekend without trouble. Late yesterday I tried to start a VRDN board and had trouble getting the holes to wet out and take solder. I think it's because the holes are smaller and the pads thin. Is there a suggestion anyone can offer. I tried a few different tips without much luck. I tried .8mm Cardas Quad and Wonder Solder with the same results.Thankyou.
 
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It's a four layer board and two of those layers are ground planes. You're heating up a LOT of copper when you solder a VRDN board. Increase tip temperature, patiently wait for solder to melt and flow. It will probably require more heating time than you're accustomed to. Pause every twenty solder joints and inspect with high power magnifier.
 
It's a four layer board and two of those layers are ground planes. You're heating up a LOT of copper when you solder a VRDN board. Increase tip temperature, patiently wait for solder to melt and flow. It will probably require more heating time than you're accustomed to. Pause every twenty solder joints and inspect with high power magnifier.
Thanks very much. I have been using a loupe which works nicely. I'm glad I'm not losing my mind. It had me perplexed. Live and learn.
 
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Joined 2004
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Folks:

Is https://www.newark.com/multicomp-pr...-10mm-disc/dp/23T0050?st=metal oxide varistor a reasonable substitute for the MOV1, 2 varistors (576-V05E40P) on the VRDN pcb? Newark doesn't have the model that Mark suggested and I'd hate to have to submit an order to Digikey or Mouser for just this one part (Newark's pricing for the parts needed for this project make it the lowest-cost reliable source).

Thank you, in advance, for helping me find a decent alternative!

Regards,
Scott
 
VRDN revision A.2: a few component values change, PCB layout doesn't change

Hi Mark,

Since I can't find ON's LM337, I'm planning to combine ON's LM317 (with Rev.A components) and TI's LM337 (with Rev.A2 components) on my VRDN PCBs.

ID​
Rev.A​
Rev.A2​
R13
15R
0R
C15
6.8N
10N
R21
0R47
0R33
R14
15R
0R
C16
6.8N
22N
R22
0R47
0R

Would there be any advantage in using both TI's LM337 and LM317?

Thanks.