I picked up a pair of XLR male plugs today to make some RCA to XLR to test the amp. If all goes well, I intend to remove the XLRs and solder some type of takeoff there. My preamp will be inside the same chassis, so I won't be mounting the buffer board on any panels. Can this amp be used without the buffer board? Can all the line inputs and aux voltages be accessed from the ribbon cable?
Yes they can. See the datasheet for the pinout.I picked up a pair of XLR male plugs today to make some RCA to XLR to test the amp. If all goes well, I intend to remove the XLRs and solder some type of takeoff there. My preamp will be inside the same chassis, so I won't be mounting the buffer board on any panels. Can this amp be used without the buffer board? Can all the line inputs and aux voltages be accessed from the ribbon cable?
Something like this may prove useful:
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Oh man, you did a great job here~~~Yes they can. See the datasheet for the pinout.
Something like this may prove useful:
View attachment 1095464
Just finished my first listening test - I'm impressed. Totally quiet without a signal, no cracks/pops etc when using any of the daughterboard switches. Only using a set of TEAC LS100U for this test, so can't try louder volumes but it sounds good so far.
Tried 2 sources:
1. RPi4 with Khadas Tone Board, running rAudio
2. ESP32 based streamer on LMS.
Now trying to work out the componentry and cabling to build an integrated amp...
Tried 2 sources:
1. RPi4 with Khadas Tone Board, running rAudio
2. ESP32 based streamer on LMS.
Now trying to work out the componentry and cabling to build an integrated amp...
Appreciate you like it, and please share your work with more DIYers hereJust finished my first listening test - I'm impressed. Totally quiet without a signal, no cracks/pops etc when using any of the daughterboard switches. Only using a set of TEAC LS100U for this test, so can't try louder volumes but it sounds good so far.
Tried 2 sources:
1. RPi4 with Khadas Tone Board, running rAudio
2. ESP32 based streamer on LMS.
Now trying to work out the componentry and cabling to build an integrated amp...
Thanks,Eric
My previous experience is with Class D amp boards, so this may be nothing unusual.
I left the amp running for nearly 4 hours, after which the 'main' heatsink was quite hot; I could only just hold my finger against it. My wife has a laser thermometer which I'll try and use to get an actual temperature reading, but has anyone else experienced this?
Is it something I need to worry about?
I left the amp running for nearly 4 hours, after which the 'main' heatsink was quite hot; I could only just hold my finger against it. My wife has a laser thermometer which I'll try and use to get an actual temperature reading, but has anyone else experienced this?
Is it something I need to worry about?
I don't get it? Is that a breakout PCB that can fit on the ribbon supplied with the amp? Connect this instead of the buffer board to get the pinouts at the green terminal? Hope so cause it looks tidyYes they can. See the datasheet for the pinout.
Something like this may prove useful:
View attachment 1095464
If this is the case, is it for sale anywhere?
Th
this gives you individual access to each pin of the 26pin connector.I don't get it? Is that a breakout PCB that can fit on the ribbon supplied with the amp? Connect this instead of the buffer board to get the pinouts at the green terminal? Hope so cause it looks tidy
If this is the case, is it for sale anywhere?
Hmmm, I said it looks tidy but looking further at it, just cutting the ribbon and taking individual wires to the pre outputs and voltages would be tidier. I'll look at separating the wires and tagging them with labels, that is if the circuitry on the buffer board is non-essential?Th
this gives you individual access to each pin of the 26pin connector.
No worry about it. We had the thermal resistor under the amplifier heatsink. The MCU will monitor the temp to do the thermal limiting or even over-temp shutdown, just the heatsink goes hot, so do not touch it when you run it in high output for a long time. And a cooling fan is recommended if you need to keep the system cooler.My previous experience is with Class D amp boards, so this may be nothing unusual.
I left the amp running for nearly 4 hours, after which the 'main' heatsink was quite hot; I could only just hold my finger against it. My wife has a laser thermometer which I'll try and use to get an actual temperature reading, but has anyone else experienced this?
Is it something I need to worry about?
Btw, there is a temp reading out for the 26pin connector. You can use this voltage to build the thermal speed-control fan.
Thanks,Eric
If your system is compact design (I mean cannot put into this buffer board) you can cut the ribbon to wire it to your pre-amp, just make sure you connect it correctly and solder it well. Otherwise, I suggest to use this buffer board, and you can de-solder the XLR jack to put your input signal to these XLR jack pins.Hmmm, I said it looks tidy but looking further at it, just cutting the ribbon and taking individual wires to the pre outputs and voltages would be tidier. I'll look at separating the wires and tagging them with labels, that is if the circuitry on the buffer board is non-essential?
It's easier to wire into your system.
Thanks,Eric
I’ve been listening to the amp in my main system driving a pair of T+A Criterion TAL140 floorstanders for the past two days and I’m pretty impressed that im getting this much power and clarity for $65!
Thanks for your attention, Bro.Any time line on ordering the amps?
The next batch will be ready within 30 days, and I'll re-design the I/O buffer to suit the chassis mount easier.
Thanks, Eric
Thanks for your attention, Bro.
The next batch will be ready within 30 days, and I'll re-design the I/O buffer to suit the chassis mount easier.
Thanks, Eric
Will this be available separately to those that bought the first batch; it may be more suitable for my final build?
Sure, the I/O buffer can be ordered separately. And the shipping cost may be higher than this I/O bufferWill this be available separately to those that bought the first batch; it may be more suitable for my final build?
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