Tricky, running alongside power will mean electrical noise, suggesting digital is best (optical of course has no problem with EMI).
Analog will likely be much cheaper though, even with differential signalling. Sending at a high line level will reduce noise, but means volume adjustment happens at receiving end.
Analog will likely be much cheaper though, even with differential signalling. Sending at a high line level will reduce noise, but means volume adjustment happens at receiving end.
If you have a phono preamp, any analog to digital converter will do. Here's a box that goes photo to optical. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_252OBXPHEB/Pro-ject-Optical-Box-E.html
Sure. You have already gotten some good advice. The problem is the figure which post contains it.Can anybody help me, the cable, analog or digital, is passing through a wall and runs next to other cables, even power cables.
Didn't you say you wanted the best way, yet already you are making an assumption about what is best. Maybe you are defining best to mean, "greatest noise immunity for the lowest price, at whatever cost to best fidelity"?Does anyone know if there exist a converterbox 24bit/192khz to optotoslink?
Might help to get more useful answers if you said a little more about what you are trying to do. Is this for a super hi-fi system? Or maybe for a barbeque party in your backyard and you need to run the $250 record player output to the patio 45 feet away, and your budget for this is $50? Or maybe its for some other situation entirely?
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None by itself is a magical bullet, but you may combine many answers for a better end result, so:
(and this is just summing up some answers above):
* Balanced twisted pair.
* Running inside its own shield.
* Driven from a low impedance.
On the order of a few tens of ohms.
* Strong signal.
Think in the order of 1 or 2 V RMS.
I would be very surprised if it does not work fine, even.better than you asked for.
(and this is just summing up some answers above):
* Balanced twisted pair.
* Running inside its own shield.
* Driven from a low impedance.
On the order of a few tens of ohms.
* Strong signal.
Think in the order of 1 or 2 V RMS.
I would be very surprised if it does not work fine, even.better than you asked for.
Certainly, but here we are talking line level signals, not microphone level, I suggested it running inside its own shield, even if sharing a larger conduit , and we are talking one signal (maybe Stereo but nothing further) , and 15 meters, not 50 or 100.But not running in a conduit alongside mains cables I suggest...
All adds up helping the problem.
FWIW for about 10 years I sold and used active PA cabinets which were daisy chained, as many as you need depending on venture size, from 2 per side for Clubs to 24 per side for Stadiums.
I used multipin Cinch type industrial connectors, the large round ones with a chrome plated ring for secure mounting, 2 to 4 pins carrying mains, 4 for balanced Audio (+hot -hot, ground, shield) , each cabinet had 2 chassis type connectors for daisychaining ... never had a problem.
Each Cabinet contained it's own 400+100W biamp and crossover.
It was "the thing" for some time, certainly more practical and fast than a full setup with big power amps + processors on each side of Stage and a myriad cables feeding speaker level signal to a bunch of cabinets, horns, etc.
Cherry on the cake: if one cabinet dies for whatever reason, its fuse blows, it self removes from the picture, the rest keeps working, public notices nothing.
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At some point though, some studios starting wiring up the walls with Mogami mic cable because they said it sounded better. At the time I didn't believe it was possible for mic/line cables to have a clear audible effect, unless maybe it was just from better shielding or something like that. Now I believe there is more to it.
"Belden 9454 "Coax Dual Channel Audio Cable" is a low budget RCA unbalanced interconnect cable.
I would spend more money and get two nice coax cables.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
the Copper Clad Steel (CCS) center conductor is OK.
But I'm not fan of spiral shields. Use a coax with a braided shield and the longer the run, the heaver the braid.
I would spend more money and get two nice coax cables.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
the Copper Clad Steel (CCS) center conductor is OK.
But I'm not fan of spiral shields. Use a coax with a braided shield and the longer the run, the heaver the braid.
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