Thanks for the tip, makes sense.So I always pay in USD, and get refund in USD.
somewhat useless shapes for me: super fine conical, "S" conical, knife...
Super fine tip is useless to me also but with knife type I can successfully solder SMD IC packages similar way like with miniwave type.
J shape is good for SMD caps and resistors.
It works well so far. That company previously made the T3A station which seemed well regarded on youtube channels, and there was a teardown of this T320 successor which showed sound construction. I took the kit with the 3 basic tips to try my hand first with the direct heating thing. A genuine JBC tip on amazon here will cost like 2/3 of the whole Aixun station, that's why I tied the aliexpress "deals".
I thought about it but finally I ended up with DIY station compatible with T245.
Those stations aren't trouble free.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aixun-t3a-misbehaving-on-grounded-pcbs/
IME a real JBC is hard to beat. I find it so much better than all the Weller "industrial" stuff I've used for decades.
Well, what kind of JBC tip shape(s) are you using for 0.8....1.5mm solder wicks? As my Weller WE-1010/WECP20 manages those any better.
What temperature did you use when tinning the tip?. I find JBC tips are more susceptible to oxidation due to high temps than other brands. And I think that is more the case with brand-new tips (although I'm not 100% sure of that last part, could be my imagination)
With brand new tips I llike to use ultra-low temps (280C or so) for the first hour or two of use. Then I raise the temps if needed, but never ever above 350C, (unless absolutely necessary for specific solder joints).
I find that 350C is the imaginary line that separates soldering bliss from soldering hell.
If I were you, I would get one of those small brass toothbrushes that people use for cleaning their 3D printers, and remove the blackened area of the tip, then re-tin it at 260C or so, and leave it loaded with solder at that temp for a few minutes. Soaking-in so to speak. You can then start soldering, progressively raising the temps and see how you're doing.
The good news is that as long as you keep it below 350C, oxidation build up is so slow that you can almost ignore it.
With brand new tips I llike to use ultra-low temps (280C or so) for the first hour or two of use. Then I raise the temps if needed, but never ever above 350C, (unless absolutely necessary for specific solder joints).
I find that 350C is the imaginary line that separates soldering bliss from soldering hell.
If I were you, I would get one of those small brass toothbrushes that people use for cleaning their 3D printers, and remove the blackened area of the tip, then re-tin it at 260C or so, and leave it loaded with solder at that temp for a few minutes. Soaking-in so to speak. You can then start soldering, progressively raising the temps and see how you're doing.
The good news is that as long as you keep it below 350C, oxidation build up is so slow that you can almost ignore it.
It is also good to run new tip at low temperature for some time.New tips can be first heated in flux and tinned under the flux for best results.
4910 - Tip Tinner.
https://mgchemicals.com/products/soldering-supplies/tip-tinner/soldering-tip-tinner/
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/4910-28G?qs=YqNA2qefETD9S0sOZrKjqg==
It's a product that works perfectly well. Try it first and.... you can thank me later.
https://mgchemicals.com/products/soldering-supplies/tip-tinner/soldering-tip-tinner/
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/4910-28G?qs=YqNA2qefETD9S0sOZrKjqg==
It's a product that works perfectly well. Try it first and.... you can thank me later.
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