Sure.
1200 x 1920 B101UAN02.1 panel (Very stressful stripping this and was a little confused by the mirror-like finish on the side of the panel facing the backlight. This is what Vojin is talking about I think. In your projector do you have the mirror side facing the LED, or the side that was originally the front of the LCD?)
f200 and f310 fresnels. These are not as thick as i was hoping so they are flexible and bulge out slightly in the middle. I'm going to frame them tightly though so that should fix the problem
f330 Optolife projection triplet.
Homemade acrylic water block with a copper plate on the front for contacting the LED.
100W commercial LED - I know this may not be as bright as needed (claims 10000 lumens), though I calculated that for the scale difference between your 160 inch diagonal screen and my 118 inch expected screen, I should theoretically only need 9800 lumens or so. (I calculated with: 18000 lumens / (160/118)^2 = 9790 lumens required)
100W LED driver
M.NT68676 VGA+DVI+HDMI LCD controller, programmed for this LCD panel. I've tested it with the LCD and backlight and it looks beautiful.
f127.5 condenser lens for the LED.
Aquarium pump and 10mm ID PVC hose for water cooling
Radiator with 3m of 10mm copper tube, two 120mm fans blowing over tubing.
Power relay to shut off LED power supply in case the water circulation stops.
One more 120mm exhaust fan behind LED
Computer ATX PSU for powering fans, pump and relay.
The assembly of the fresnels and LCD panel is going to be mounted on a sort of sliding rail so that I can move it back and forward, as will the LED. I'm doing this so I can adjust it - I'm not confident that I'll get the spacings between lenses right first try, seeing as this is my first build.
I'm working on a way to incorporate lens shift with the projection lens as well.
The screen will be blackout cloth so that I can roll it up and store it. If there is a problem with the colours, contrast or gain I'm considering painting it with one of the many DIY screen paint formulas, possibly Black Widow.
Do the fresnel lenses have to be perfectly in line with the centre of the LCD panel as well as the LED? I'd imagine that the collector (rear) fresnel does not, but I'm not so sure about the field one.
1200 x 1920 B101UAN02.1 panel (Very stressful stripping this and was a little confused by the mirror-like finish on the side of the panel facing the backlight. This is what Vojin is talking about I think. In your projector do you have the mirror side facing the LED, or the side that was originally the front of the LCD?)
f200 and f310 fresnels. These are not as thick as i was hoping so they are flexible and bulge out slightly in the middle. I'm going to frame them tightly though so that should fix the problem
f330 Optolife projection triplet.
Homemade acrylic water block with a copper plate on the front for contacting the LED.
100W commercial LED - I know this may not be as bright as needed (claims 10000 lumens), though I calculated that for the scale difference between your 160 inch diagonal screen and my 118 inch expected screen, I should theoretically only need 9800 lumens or so. (I calculated with: 18000 lumens / (160/118)^2 = 9790 lumens required)
100W LED driver
M.NT68676 VGA+DVI+HDMI LCD controller, programmed for this LCD panel. I've tested it with the LCD and backlight and it looks beautiful.
f127.5 condenser lens for the LED.
Aquarium pump and 10mm ID PVC hose for water cooling
Radiator with 3m of 10mm copper tube, two 120mm fans blowing over tubing.
Power relay to shut off LED power supply in case the water circulation stops.
One more 120mm exhaust fan behind LED
Computer ATX PSU for powering fans, pump and relay.
The assembly of the fresnels and LCD panel is going to be mounted on a sort of sliding rail so that I can move it back and forward, as will the LED. I'm doing this so I can adjust it - I'm not confident that I'll get the spacings between lenses right first try, seeing as this is my first build.
I'm working on a way to incorporate lens shift with the projection lens as well.
The screen will be blackout cloth so that I can roll it up and store it. If there is a problem with the colours, contrast or gain I'm considering painting it with one of the many DIY screen paint formulas, possibly Black Widow.
Do the fresnel lenses have to be perfectly in line with the centre of the LCD panel as well as the LED? I'd imagine that the collector (rear) fresnel does not, but I'm not so sure about the field one.
If this is ur first time to build, dont do lens shifting. It will make you confuse on focusing issues, Stay with "All center to center alignment".
Do a simple flat white paint in the wall. Spend money on good quality parts.
So as a summary
1. Replace your controller
2. Use a better led
3. Use a better projection lens
4. Use a better fresnel lens
And you will be totally please with the result.
what you have now, will just make you frustrated.
Ive been there before.
Do a simple flat white paint in the wall. Spend money on good quality parts.
So as a summary
1. Replace your controller
2. Use a better led
3. Use a better projection lens
4. Use a better fresnel lens
And you will be totally please with the result.
what you have now, will just make you frustrated.
Ive been there before.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello everyone here are some resultsHello, have some questions before I feel confortable in doing this.
I have a 10.1 screen, will optolife 220/330 unsplit with 320 triplet work?
I have a 500w halogen lamp, can I use it for this project?
Is the condenser lens absolutley necessary?
After removing the backlight, do you remove the layers from the lcd? One side is more mirror like than the other, can I project from both sides? If not, do I have to use a mirror?
Hope you guys can help me
I have a 10.1 screen, will optolife 220/330 unsplit with 320 triplet work?
I have a 500w halogen lamp, can I use it for this project?
Is the condenser lens absolutley necessary?
After removing the backlight, do you remove the layers from the lcd? One side is more mirror like than the other, can I project from both sides? If not, do I have to use a mirror?
Hope you guys can help me
yes your lenses will work, but not the best.
do not use halogen lamp. too hot.
yes condesner lens is needed .
do not remove any layers from lcd.lcd is very thin, you will just risk damaging the lcd.
you wont gain anything from it.
use of mirror is your decision. best result is obtained without using mirror.there is light loss in the mirror.
you can invert/flip lcd and its fine.
do not use halogen lamp. too hot.
yes condesner lens is needed .
do not remove any layers from lcd.lcd is very thin, you will just risk damaging the lcd.
you wont gain anything from it.
use of mirror is your decision. best result is obtained without using mirror.there is light loss in the mirror.
you can invert/flip lcd and its fine.
Thank you for your answer Hertz. Unfortunately I don't have money left, I will have to use what I have. Without the condenser the results will be bad? I see some projects without it.
I still have the halogen lamp in the casing with tempered glass. I'm thinking of putting another glass in front and putting a fan in between glasses, do you think it will work?Two fans if it gets to hot
I still have the halogen lamp in the casing with tempered glass. I'm thinking of putting another glass in front and putting a fan in between glasses, do you think it will work?Two fans if it gets to hot
it will work of course but dont expect good result.
You get what you paid for.
Again, there is nothing new in diyprojector design.
What matters most to get the best result is parts quality.
14 years ago, we dont have much option or parts availability is the biggest issue. Now, there are lots of choices. I was able to select which part is the best, good or bad or not so bad.
You get what you paid for.
Again, there is nothing new in diyprojector design.
What matters most to get the best result is parts quality.
14 years ago, we dont have much option or parts availability is the biggest issue. Now, there are lots of choices. I was able to select which part is the best, good or bad or not so bad.
Hi i am gathering all the materials for my diy projector i have a 44mm convex lens with reflector made for the 100w led light engine from ebay.
I also have some other parts due in the post there is a convex lens without a reflector it looks to be around the same size as the ones i see used in the projectors you have made hertz about 3 1/2 inch which would you suggest i should use the setup is made around a 7" lcd
I also have some other parts due in the post there is a convex lens without a reflector it looks to be around the same size as the ones i see used in the projectors you have made hertz about 3 1/2 inch which would you suggest i should use the setup is made around a 7" lcd
Hi, I have a question. A while ago I did a projector setup with a larger 15" panel and had issues with the circuit boards that were connected directly to the lcd panel. They were difficult to move out of the way. Do the newer smaller lcd panels that you use have this issue too? Are the boards attached the same way? Looking at your photos of the inside of your projectors it doesn't look like you have any trouble with the boards. I've been wanting to built a new projector for a while and I am almost to the point of ordering parts, but I'd hate to buy an lcd panel that had circuit boards I couldn't fold out of the way (hard to know without taking it apart.) Thanks in advance for your time and advice and the incredible resource of information you've provided on this site!
My last lcd had two boards attached to the panel like the panel in the picture. There was also a ribbon cable that connected them, which was also difficult to deal with.
My last lcd had two boards attached to the panel like the panel in the picture. There was also a ribbon cable that connected them, which was also difficult to deal with.
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