Without having access to the scope, it's going to be more difficult.
I think you need to:
Replace the driver and any blown FETs
disconnect the rectifiers
clamp the PS FETs tightly to the heatsink
insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line (no current limiting from the power supply)
Power up and check waveforms on the PS FETs if the fuse doesn't blow
I think you need to:
Replace the driver and any blown FETs
disconnect the rectifiers
clamp the PS FETs tightly to the heatsink
insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line (no current limiting from the power supply)
Power up and check waveforms on the PS FETs if the fuse doesn't blow
I think there is something screwed up with his car, his car has killed 2 more amplifiers 😂
Both of the amps were low power and older.
From what ive been told:
First one blew up randomly while listening to it (2 dead output fets)
Second one blew up after connecting power to it (2 dead output fets)
I removed the dead fets from the second one, but it still worked just fine, so we put it back in the car, listened to it for like 5mins and adjusted the power to a safe level for the amp (estimated like 200w on the output, amp has an RMS of 400w@4ohm).
Later he messages me that he started his car, heard a pop from the back and the amp was on fire, no pics of the amplifiers insides yet, will post when i get the pics.
Both of the amps were low power and older.
From what ive been told:
First one blew up randomly while listening to it (2 dead output fets)
Second one blew up after connecting power to it (2 dead output fets)
I removed the dead fets from the second one, but it still worked just fine, so we put it back in the car, listened to it for like 5mins and adjusted the power to a safe level for the amp (estimated like 200w on the output, amp has an RMS of 400w@4ohm).
Later he messages me that he started his car, heard a pop from the back and the amp was on fire, no pics of the amplifiers insides yet, will post when i get the pics.
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It's been common for speaker enclosures to grind the speaker wires (feeding the enclosure) into the floorpan of the vehicle to create an intermittent short.
Another problem that was much less common was the speaker having lead-in wires (between terminals and the cone) that were too long and could touch when the speaker was driven hard.
Another problem that was much less common was the speaker having lead-in wires (between terminals and the cone) that were too long and could touch when the speaker was driven hard.
In many of the installations, the speaker wires get under the enclosure and the corner/edge of the enclosure puts enough pressure on the speaker wire to grind it onto the floor of the vehicle. This can either short the two wires together or into the floor of the vehicle (which is ground).
One other thing I've seen (only one time) was the speaker wires shorting where they meet in the parallel pair.
One other thing I've seen (only one time) was the speaker wires shorting where they meet in the parallel pair.