You should be, its all looking great.I'm pretty chuffed with how it is going so far
I'd highly recommend using a 3mm copper plate instead.Thermalissues.com
I am really keen to take the RCA's off you if you want to sell them. I have family in the UK and my brother-in-law will be visiting there next week for 3 weeks. Maybe we can make a plan? The serial No. is B3224084@inphase01 ,i did a full recap of the electrolitics, replacing some with film caps. I do have some original RCA(H) MJ's but it looks like you are a long way away.You realy need matching pairs. If when fitting these so you may be batter off changing all 4 and get matched sets. I always fit emitter resistors to the H's as well. What is the serial number of you amp?
This looks really very neat! I can see that you take great pride in your work, well done. Definitely going to steal some ideasSo I've finally finished making the heatsink
I just havent put it back yet@poundy I have been following your thread for a while, and I'm learning a great deal from it, thank you for sharing!
I have a 3020 that's been in the family since new, about 1982/3
I recently bought a 3020A for 300ZAR (±£13) no cover, no base and very dirty. I am in the process of getting it back to a working condition and upgrade, hence the interest in your post. At this point I am stuck, needing an RCA MJ2955
Anyway, do you want to share the list of caps that you replaced? Will really help me if I get this one sorted.
Regards,
John
ok so that is a realy late one, just before the 'b' version and will have the board represented in these 2 diagramsI am really keen to take the RCA's off you if you want to sell them. I have family in the UK and my brother-in-law will be visiting there next week for 3 weeks. Maybe we can make a plan? The serial No. is B3224084
Yep they do that's why I've altered the pins so they are away a bit from them 😉The problem is that the caps are next to the regulators (trannies) , and the heat from them dries out the caps.