Hello
I am building two Fullrange Tops
fitting to my two 18" Subwoofers (t.amp E-1200)
I will follow this cabinet design:
LAVOCE
i will use this drivers
Faital Pro HF1440 - 1,4", 120W 8Ohm
Horn RCF HF94
Speaker Lavoce WAF123.00, 8 ohm, 12 inch
and this amps
the t.amp E-400
JBSYSTEMS amp 400.2
and this DSP
t.racks DSP 206
Greetings Jonas
I am building two Fullrange Tops
fitting to my two 18" Subwoofers (t.amp E-1200)
I will follow this cabinet design:
LAVOCE
i will use this drivers
Faital Pro HF1440 - 1,4", 120W 8Ohm
Horn RCF HF94
Speaker Lavoce WAF123.00, 8 ohm, 12 inch
and this amps
the t.amp E-400
JBSYSTEMS amp 400.2
and this DSP
t.racks DSP 206
Greetings Jonas
Mhhh...the partition of the box seems strange. It is good in the sense that eliminates possible air spills from the tweeter ( horn) cutout, but it halves box volume! indeed, looking at the plans, it is hollow...
Another note: the fullrange forum is intended for speakers that play full-range, i.e. a wide band speaker.
(loud)speakers that are composed of a (mid) woofer plus a tweeter are part of the multi-way forum.
Strangely, speakers made with a (sub)woofer and a wideband(er) are part of the fullrange forum.
Another note: the fullrange forum is intended for speakers that play full-range, i.e. a wide band speaker.
(loud)speakers that are composed of a (mid) woofer plus a tweeter are part of the multi-way forum.
Strangely, speakers made with a (sub)woofer and a wideband(er) are part of the fullrange forum.
There is space for big handles, but not much choice where to put them, low and quite close to the front, I will see later how this feels.
This plan is not for beginners, all these groves for the connection need to be really precise, there is no room for error. And I mark most pieces where I cut a hole later, so I needed to rename them, sometimes twice..
I think I found a way to glue them with cookies only without using screws at all, so I can keep the wood grain all around without filler.
This plan is not for beginners, all these groves for the connection need to be really precise, there is no room for error. And I mark most pieces where I cut a hole later, so I needed to rename them, sometimes twice..
I think I found a way to glue them with cookies only without using screws at all, so I can keep the wood grain all around without filler.
Thank you 
@fabricadetabaco you mean dark blue for the tops as well? i was thinking somethink complimentary, like red or orange or violette ? kind of a dark, rich, saturated tone ...🤔
greetings Jonas
@fabricadetabaco you mean dark blue for the tops as well? i was thinking somethink complimentary, like red or orange or violette ? kind of a dark, rich, saturated tone ...🤔
greetings Jonas
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Question: ???
How is the best way to seal around the handles, i allways make a mess with cartridge press seal/glue what other options are possible? i have some silicone tape, original from metal roofing, its on a role, flexible water proof and removable. I can apply it without gloves and concern to put it somewhere where i do not want it.
Same for the inputterminal, the horn and the drivers...
greetings Jonas
How is the best way to seal around the handles, i allways make a mess with cartridge press seal/glue what other options are possible? i have some silicone tape, original from metal roofing, its on a role, flexible water proof and removable. I can apply it without gloves and concern to put it somewhere where i do not want it.
Same for the inputterminal, the horn and the drivers...
greetings Jonas
If you are going to screw all 8 on the handels, latex is good and strong and easy to get.
Just use a wet cloth and wipe it of if it comes "outside", its waterbased and cheep.
The drivers i always seal with sealing strip.
https://www.casco.eu/global/casco/?pc=97&p=639
Stong enough & can handle small movements/vibbrations and still super-easy to remove (when dried) if necessary