Solved it (kind of)
I normally use unshielded interconnects. The pops, as qdoc wisely noted, are RFI and enter my system via the air and the interconnects. RFI is usually not large enough to be heard. However a phono stage, such as my Black Cube, is designed to amplify verly small signals like those generated by the phono cartridge. It thus amplifies the RFI and thus I hear the "Pop".
Solution: change the interconnect between the turntable and the phono stage to a shielded one. Results: NO MORE POPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now back to the Gainclone: it pops even with shielded IC's. The GC is encased in an aluminum box so it should be shielded. Question: How does the RFI slips in?
I normally use unshielded interconnects. The pops, as qdoc wisely noted, are RFI and enter my system via the air and the interconnects. RFI is usually not large enough to be heard. However a phono stage, such as my Black Cube, is designed to amplify verly small signals like those generated by the phono cartridge. It thus amplifies the RFI and thus I hear the "Pop".
Solution: change the interconnect between the turntable and the phono stage to a shielded one. Results: NO MORE POPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now back to the Gainclone: it pops even with shielded IC's. The GC is encased in an aluminum box so it should be shielded. Question: How does the RFI slips in?
Re: Solved it (kind of)
In my amp the pops couple directly from the mains. I know this because when the same amp is powered from a battery, I get no pops.
A complex mains filter that uses a choke might help - a simple mains rated cap across line and neutral didn't seem to help at all in my case. It might hurt, too; some people think these filters affect the sound.
xcortes said:
In my amp the pops couple directly from the mains. I know this because when the same amp is powered from a battery, I get no pops.
A complex mains filter that uses a choke might help - a simple mains rated cap across line and neutral didn't seem to help at all in my case. It might hurt, too; some people think these filters affect the sound.
Congratulations!
There can be opening of shield some where. In my experience, even if shielded cables are used, many turn tables have exposure to RF signals and still make noises. RFI can be from exposure in the source equipments and finally arrive in the input of your gain clone. Exposure can be opening of shield, or connection to other element which has exposure.
As mentioned earlier, simpliest and fool proof solution is to put RF filter and you will be free from those troubles.
I never tried to build external filter however i think it will work as long as there is no internal exposure (ie. jump from power node). Probably you can put a filter network inside a small metal tube type female to female (or male to male) RCA adaptor.
And, Franz G, I did not particularly mean you. My point was that people have to think how a help should be if they really mean to help someone. Pointing a misdirection can result in miles of painful walk for nothing!
There can be opening of shield some where. In my experience, even if shielded cables are used, many turn tables have exposure to RF signals and still make noises. RFI can be from exposure in the source equipments and finally arrive in the input of your gain clone. Exposure can be opening of shield, or connection to other element which has exposure.
As mentioned earlier, simpliest and fool proof solution is to put RF filter and you will be free from those troubles.
I never tried to build external filter however i think it will work as long as there is no internal exposure (ie. jump from power node). Probably you can put a filter network inside a small metal tube type female to female (or male to male) RCA adaptor.
And, Franz G, I did not particularly mean you. My point was that people have to think how a help should be if they really mean to help someone. Pointing a misdirection can result in miles of painful walk for nothing!
qdoc said:
I have this same exact problem. I would like to build an RF filter because I have about 20 ft of interconnects going from my computer and I'm not sure if they're shielded. I never had this problem before (with my HK amp I have this problem now also), I think it might be my new computer power supply, but I'm not sure. It's the only thing I've changed except the speakers. The pops happen when you turn things on or off. Fans seem to be the worst offenders.
I read this whole thread and people recommend a few RF filters. What would be the best one or one some one knows should work?
I also have a slight buzzing (both channels, from tweeters), but it's now that bad most of the time.
jackinnj said:
Not sure what decoupling does, but I have the wire and the winding have to be around a large size (metal oxide?) resistor. I trying to find nat semi's website, no luck yet.
I have a capacitor across the in+ and in- it does nothing. It's labeled .33 (x2) uF, but I'm not sure, I think there might be more that one capacitor and also atleast one resistor. It's labeled as an EMI (electro-magnetic interference?) filter. I got it out of a computer power supply, it was attached and soldered to the plug.
the switch
Power supply filtering issues aside, I had the same 'light switch' problem several years ago with some high-gain electronic circuitry I was working on in my studio. Turning the lights on and off registered in the circuitry.
The copper alloy contacts of the switch get corroded over time, as they are basically arcing AC across the contacts whenever the contacts are coming together and going apart- i.e. switching on and off. Such an arc is of course one of the earliest forms of radio tansmitters- the trusty old 'spark-gap' transmitter. Once the switch ( it was a realy old one) was replaced, the problem pretty much disappeared. Of course, need I say you should consult a certified electrician, as mains voltages can lead to
?
Daniel
Power supply filtering issues aside, I had the same 'light switch' problem several years ago with some high-gain electronic circuitry I was working on in my studio. Turning the lights on and off registered in the circuitry.
The copper alloy contacts of the switch get corroded over time, as they are basically arcing AC across the contacts whenever the contacts are coming together and going apart- i.e. switching on and off. Such an arc is of course one of the earliest forms of radio tansmitters- the trusty old 'spark-gap' transmitter. Once the switch ( it was a realy old one) was replaced, the problem pretty much disappeared. Of course, need I say you should consult a certified electrician, as mains voltages can lead to
? Daniel
Re: the switch
Are you sure it wasn't aluminum wiring and the non-AL-CU switches ? -- one of the problems with aluminum wiring (which was cheap and lightweight, used during the 1950's and1960's) is that it heats and expands differently than copper -- thus electrical connections became problematic and resulted in many house-fires.
Ham radio ops experience just the kind of interference you cite -- from bare bulb lamp fixtures with bad connections to poor relay contactors in appliances -- and these devices can be hundreds of feet away from your residence.
If you work with very sensitive devices, even a slight jiggle of a cable will put a charge into motion !
terminalcity said:Power supply filtering issues aside, I had the same 'light switch' problem several years ago with some high-gain electronic circuitry I was working on in my studio. Turning the lights on and off registered in the circuitry.
The copper alloy contacts of the switch get corroded over time, as they are basically arcing AC across the contacts whenever the contacts are coming together and going apart- i.e. switching on and off. Such an arc is of course one of the earliest forms of radio tansmitters- the trusty old 'spark-gap' transmitter. Once the switch ( it was a realy old one) was replaced, the problem pretty much disappeared. Of course, need I say you should consult a certified electrician, as mains voltages can lead to
Daniel
Are you sure it wasn't aluminum wiring and the non-AL-CU switches ? -- one of the problems with aluminum wiring (which was cheap and lightweight, used during the 1950's and1960's) is that it heats and expands differently than copper -- thus electrical connections became problematic and resulted in many house-fires.
Ham radio ops experience just the kind of interference you cite -- from bare bulb lamp fixtures with bad connections to poor relay contactors in appliances -- and these devices can be hundreds of feet away from your residence.
If you work with very sensitive devices, even a slight jiggle of a cable will put a charge into motion !
I figured out that the pops in my gainclone are caused by the interconnects not being shielded. Can a RF filter be used for the interconnects or inside amp to solve this? I still can't find Nat Semi's website to make this filter, if it is this filter and not power input, can some one help? Although if worse comes to worse I can make some shielded interconnects.
What is more annoying and happens even when my interconnects are unplugged. Is the constent hum coming from the tweeters. When I first turn my amp on it's very suttle, but it seems to get worse and worse the longer I leave it on or maybe just sometimes it's louder than other times. But I think it has to do with how long I leave the amp on. Does any one know what causes this?
What is more annoying and happens even when my interconnects are unplugged. Is the constent hum coming from the tweeters. When I first turn my amp on it's very suttle, but it seems to get worse and worse the longer I leave it on or maybe just sometimes it's louder than other times. But I think it has to do with how long I leave the amp on. Does any one know what causes this?
Re
I have Rotel RB-1070 and RC-03 and when I switch the lights on/off in my floor, I have the same pops from my speakers. Now it's weird since it happens only when I switch the lights on/off in my floor. And other devices like my computer, the UPS its connected don't make those pops when opened/closed. Only the light switches. I changed my switches to dimmers and high quality ones and they didn't have much effect but now the pops occur less frequent but every once in a while, they are there. But one thing I noticed is this. It only happens with the lights connected to the same switch in the circuit breaker box in my floor. The lights on the stairs is connected to a different switch and it doesn't do it. I tried PS Audio's Ultimate Outlet for filtering and it didn't work at all. I connected my whole kit to a APC surge/spike protector 5-outlet and it didn't work. I bought a APC voltage regulator and connected the kit to that one and it didn't work. So tomorrow I'll try to do the following, I'll try to connect all the lights to a different switch in circuit breaker box. Maybe it will help. And I called an electrician to check the grounding everywhere. Maybe it will give a clue. And I have one important question to ask. I've read in this thread that these pops don't damage speakers or amp. Are you sure of that? Because those pops sound louder if the volume is set on high in my pre-amplifier. It happened at most 5-6 times when somebody switched the lights when the volume was near the half and the pops were quite loud. (Btw those things never occur when you don't use a Pre-amplifier). So I want to make sure that those things don't damage my precious speakers : )))))
I have Rotel RB-1070 and RC-03 and when I switch the lights on/off in my floor, I have the same pops from my speakers. Now it's weird since it happens only when I switch the lights on/off in my floor. And other devices like my computer, the UPS its connected don't make those pops when opened/closed. Only the light switches. I changed my switches to dimmers and high quality ones and they didn't have much effect but now the pops occur less frequent but every once in a while, they are there. But one thing I noticed is this. It only happens with the lights connected to the same switch in the circuit breaker box in my floor. The lights on the stairs is connected to a different switch and it doesn't do it. I tried PS Audio's Ultimate Outlet for filtering and it didn't work at all. I connected my whole kit to a APC surge/spike protector 5-outlet and it didn't work. I bought a APC voltage regulator and connected the kit to that one and it didn't work. So tomorrow I'll try to do the following, I'll try to connect all the lights to a different switch in circuit breaker box. Maybe it will help. And I called an electrician to check the grounding everywhere. Maybe it will give a clue. And I have one important question to ask. I've read in this thread that these pops don't damage speakers or amp. Are you sure of that? Because those pops sound louder if the volume is set on high in my pre-amplifier. It happened at most 5-6 times when somebody switched the lights when the volume was near the half and the pops were quite loud. (Btw those things never occur when you don't use a Pre-amplifier). So I want to make sure that those things don't damage my precious speakers : )))))
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